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Cutoff or Parting Tool Blade Warning

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  • #16
    I use both HSS and tipped parting blades. I generally prefer my HSS blades (Eclipse), but sometimes a tipped blade is required. I also generally use HSS first for most general turning jobs. The thing is, ALL my HSS is brand name made in the UK/USA. Most HSS made in China or India is vastly inferior to the point of being crap.

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    • #17
      I buy T type cutoff blades from Victor. They have side relief and also have a groove on top that really helps reduce chip binding. They are import but they work great.

      metalmagpie

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      • #18
        I'm with ya there, parting off under power feed at 1000 rpm, no probs at all

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        • #19
          My 3mm Kennametal and Kyocera blades will plunge 50mm. I bought a 6mm Kennametal blade and ten neutral inserts on eBay for a song, but haven't tried it yet. It looks like it would manage a greater depth, I must look up the specs.
          When I bought my tiny Chinese lathe from an old fellow who was obviously not experienced with machines, I chuckled when I realised that he had the hss parting blade upside down in the holder.
          Last edited by old mart; 03-24-2017, 05:25 PM.

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          • #20
            No great fan of the toolholder stick out on some of these parting tools, way too much I feel.
            I was never lucky with parting tools, I always ran too slow, huge chip load per Rev, dialled it up and much more repeatable reliable cuts, I'm using a Walter blade kindly sent to me by Blackforrest, it fairly zips through, no more cowardly hacksawing, slop in the cross slide wasn't a help either, I have a few sandvick tizzit as well now, very reliable tools, a QC toolpost is still on the list ( the old multi fix was removed, I would like it back but not likely!)
            I won't be buying any Chinese blades if I can help it, perhaps they are designed for wood, or candles
            Mark

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            • #21
              Years ago when I was on HSS parting blades I found that if you went round the cutter sharpening place you could scrounge for free or very cheap long wood planer blades off the 36" and 49" Wadkin planers that had reached the end of their life.
              So I grabbed a big handful and went back to work, Cut them up into 4" long pieces with an abrasive saw.

              Then got a square block of steel, probably 1 1/2" square and on three sides I milled some angles in it.
              One side has a 7 degree taper to do one side clearance which when split would give me 3 1/2 degrees either side. One side held the blade nearly upright so the top and bottom tapers could be ground on and the last side has a compound taper, 7 degrees on the side but tipped down by about 2 degrees to put the side clearance on the front.

              Probably took an afternoon to make the block but then get the block and 8 or so blades and in under an hour on a simple surface grinder with a stick chuck, I can have 8 brand new blades that fit my holder.

              Still got some but I'm mainly on carbide tooling now.
              Still have the block in a toolbox somewhere.
              I'll see if I can find it Sunday when I pop back into work and get a few pictures. At the time it was well worth the effort because of all the scrap planer blades I was able to get.
              .

              Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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