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OT Stuck on Alloy Wheels

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  • OT Stuck on Alloy Wheels

    Tried a dead blow. Tried a sledge hammer to the inside wall of the time. Tried driving with the lug nuts finger tight. No luck period. Ideas? It would help if tire shops would use a little bit of Anti-Sieze.
    Forty plus years and I still have ten toes, ten fingers and both eyes. I must be doing something right.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Spin Doctor View Post
    Tried a dead blow. Tried a sledge hammer to the inside wall of the time. Tried driving with the lug nuts finger tight. No luck period. Ideas? It would help if tire shops would use a little bit of Anti-Sieze.
    If the vehicle is heavy enough, loosen the lug nuts and, using a floor jack, jack it up as high as possible and drop the jack as fast as possible. Make take a couple of tries.

    ~or~

    Do this in an empty parking lot, one wheel at at time.
    Loosen the lug nuts and tighten finger-tight. Drive car around in tight circles alternating directions a couple of times. The idea here is to put a lot of pressure on the wheel. You'll hear the wheels pop. Torque the nuts up and drive home.

    You have to get medieval with really stuck wheels.
    Last edited by CarlByrns; 04-18-2015, 04:58 PM.

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    • #3
      Kroil inside the wheel center around the hub flange, back off of the "finger tight" lug nuts about 2 turns, go out and do some slaloms (hard left right turns) and let the weight of the vehicle do the work.

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      • #4
        Last ones that were stuck for me I had to use a large pry bar (the ones 5' long) behind the wheel. It was a truck so I had some frame to pry against. I tried a 2x4 first and broke it!

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        • #5
          Lug nuts finger tight then back a flat.

          Then find a pot hole. ;-)

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          • #6
            Loosen the nuts a tad, a bit of whatever juice suits you and come drive here in Saskatchewan. Guarantee success. ps make sure your teeth are tight.

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            • #7
              Try a mix of 50/50 ATF & acetone. Astounding penetrating oil

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              • #8
                I know simulare has been posted before, but maybe drop these guys an email, im sure they know a trick or two.
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rvACiBclFI

                _
                ~ What was once an Opinion, became a Fact, to be later proven Wrong ~
                http://site.thisisjusthowidoit.com
                https://www.youtube.com/user/thisisjusthowidoit

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                • #9
                  Had this happen when we got a flat tire on a rental vehicle. Loosened the nuts hit the accelerator jammed on the brakes, nothing worked. With the car jacked up my coworker delivered a flying Karate kick and broke it loose! Who knew?

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                  • #10
                    I always alternate smacking with an 8 pound sledge on the inner sidewall and outer sidewalls. Put it on stands and whale on it. if they are good tires, a 2x long enough to reach out of the other side, blocked up to hit the rim, have helper turn the tire, while you hit the 2x with the sledge.
                    Afterwards, unless you got too enthusiastic with the sledge and damaged the rim, scuff the hole down and paint it or use anti-seize.

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                    • #11
                      What kind of vehicle/wheel?

                      Can a pulley puller be used in the center?

                      I haven't came across one yet that a rubber mallet or sledge and a block of wood to the inside wheel lip didn't pop it off.
                      Andy

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                      • #12
                        What size dead-blow did you use? Shops Ive worked in always had a long handled 16 or 20 lb'er for this exact reason.
                        "I am, and ever will be, a white-socks, pocket-protector, nerdy engineer -- born under the second law of thermodynamics, steeped in the steam tables, in love with free-body diagrams, transformed by Laplace, and propelled by compressible flow."

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                        • #13
                          Warm the hub a bit where the wheel sits on the hub register in the centre, it worked for me, once hot BFH it a bit, rubber preferably
                          Mark

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by boslab View Post
                            Warm the hub a bit where the wheel sits on the hub register in the centre, it worked for me, once hot BFH it a bit, rubber preferably
                            Mark
                            I've never seen the verbal use of BFH before - truly innovative.

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                            • #15
                              Use boiling water to heat wheel, if you are near a heat source when needed. That insures the heat will not be high enough to change the aluminum alloy properties. Since aluminum expands three times more than iron for the same temperature that will make it much easier to remove. Had the same problem with a Jeep Cherokee some years back. It was on full warrantee so just took it to the shop.
                              Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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