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Repair Ideas for mill ways?

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  • oldtiffie
    replied
    I did not mention anything about requesting that you "bin" the mill - hence my request/call to bin it does not exist and so cannot be denied.

    I hope it works out for you - as it now seems that it might.

    Leave a comment:


  • Boostinjdm
    replied
    Originally posted by oldtiffie View Post
    There may well come a time in this project whare the OP has to seriously consider the minimum requirement he has for this machine and the"distance" (time, energy, money etc.) that he may have to commit himself to to get here.

    Defining the "start" point will be the initial and possibly the hardest requirement.

    But seriously, if all that the OP really required was a drill - why didn't he just buy a reasonable sized and quality drill that was pretty well ready to use with minimal (or any) necessary work or time or cost on it?
    Your request to bin it has been denied.

    I already have a drill press. I haven't used it since I got my mill. So I found this smaller mill to free up the big one. It would have likely done the job I wanted it for with very minimal clean up. I have issues with doing the minimum required. Machine has already been torn down except for the head. Most of it cleaned, and some of it repainted. By the time I am done, I will have removed and re-installed every last nut and bolt.

    Other than these ways, I have not found any major issues. The x and z ways look almost new. I want the damaged ways repaired to a reasonable condition, but am not wanting to spend a lot of money on it. If I wanted to spend money, I would have bought a new one. Or at least a nice used one.

    Leave a comment:


  • bborr01
    replied
    I see now. I thought it was the dovetails on the knee that were worn or scored. Lots of times on the Bridgeport knees chips get built up between the knee and the base casting and score the outer edge of the dovetail. Your mill has a different type of dovetail than a Bridgeport type mill has and it looks like the top surface is a bearing surface and should be flat and true. The Bridgeport type mills have an additional machined surface on the Y axisl

    Brian

    Originally posted by Boostinjdm View Post
    That is the surface the saddle rides on. As was stated in the first post...

    It is the y axis ways. To the right of the hand wheel in this pic would be upper left of the picture I posted earlier.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    There may well come a time in this project whare the OP has to seriously consider the minimum requirement he has for this machine and the"distance" (time, energy, money etc.) that he may have to commit himself to to get here.

    Defining the "start" point will be the initial and possibly the hardest requirement.

    But seriously, if all that the OP really required was a drill - why didn't he just buy a reasonable sized and quality drill that was pretty well ready to use with minimal (or any) necessary work or time or cost on it?
    Last edited by oldtiffie; 04-20-2015, 08:22 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • janvanruth
    replied
    Originally posted by bborr01 View Post
    Unless I am missing something, the surface shown on the picture doesn't need to be repaired. Is that the face of the knee ways? Kind of like the bottom of the ways on a Bridgeport ram. I have seen people use carpet to keep from "damaging" the ways when in fact it has no bearing on anything. It is up against air. It could be painted and it wouldn't matter.

    Before I spent 10 minutes worrying about repairing the surface I would make sure it is actually a surface that matters, which I don't think it does.

    Brian
    if the surface wouldnt bear on anything how would it get scored the way it is?

    Leave a comment:


  • Boostinjdm
    replied
    That is the surface the saddle rides on. As was stated in the first post...

    It is the y axis ways. To the right of the hand wheel in this pic would be upper left of the picture I posted earlier.

    Leave a comment:


  • bborr01
    replied
    Unless I am missing something, the surface shown on the picture doesn't need to be repaired. Is that the face of the knee ways? Kind of like the bottom of the ways on a Bridgeport ram. I have seen people use carpet to keep from "damaging" the ways when in fact it has no bearing on anything. It is up against air. It could be painted and it wouldn't matter.

    Before I spent 10 minutes worrying about repairing the surface I would make sure it is actually a surface that matters, which I don't think it does.

    Brian

    Leave a comment:


  • Doozer
    replied
    I wondered if Dan Gelbart was talking specifically about prep
    for powder coating or all paint or epoxy applications.
    He was doing powder coating at the time. I would have to watch
    the video again to clarify. But I do remember him saying something
    to the fact about people doing it wrong.
    I did try the Comet cleanser thing last week.
    I was going to clean up a cast iron lever casting that I had brazed
    up some cracks in. Running water over the casting, the water
    beaded up and ran away. The casting was clean, in as much as
    it had been heated dull red hot from me brazing it. Still the water
    beaded up and ran off.
    I sprinkled on some Comet cleanser and worked the powder in with
    my hands, scrubbing it around thoroughly. After rinsing it off with
    clean water from the tap, now the water "wetted" the surface, and
    it stayed wet, as the water now had an adhesion to the surface,
    instead of seeming to be repelled by the surface as before.
    So I dunno about needing to scrub with Comet cleanser, but I think
    it can't hurt.
    One thing I was thinking of, is that spray paint in the can has
    hydrocarbon solvent based delivery system. Read most cans and it
    says that it contains xylene or toluene. Propellent is usually propane.
    So spray paint is full of hydrocarbons. Maybe wiping a part to be
    painted down with lacquer thinner is not a bad thing before spray
    painting, but for powder coating or epoxy, the Comet thing might
    be a better way. More research is necessary.

    Why I asked if the mill had been greased, is that I have seen a
    few machines that had been mistakenly grease lubricated, and
    about all of them had scoring on the ways. Too bad people
    make assumptions.

    -Doozer

    Leave a comment:


  • Boostinjdm
    replied
    Originally posted by bborr01 View Post
    Are those box ways? If they are dovetail ways, that surface shouldn't make any difference.

    Brian
    Dovetail ways.

    Originally posted by Doozer View Post
    The right side looks fine, some scraping still present.
    By chance did someone grease lube it??


    --D
    Yes, they greased it. For years...

    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    If there is original level surface left, same level as adjacent un-gouged areas, then just fill the gouges with epoxy to prevent swarf from collecting, and use a burr file to level it off flush with the surrounding area.

    I did that years ago on the lathe, the epoxy is still there, despite oil etc. You DO need to clean 3more times than you think is enough, using a good solvent, before epoxying.
    That was my very first thought, but it does seem kind of half assed. I'm not sure how to verify the amount of wear with the tools I have. It doesn't look like the surface has been dropped much, but it's hard to tell with all the gouges.

    Leave a comment:


  • QSIMDO
    replied
    A quick sidebar;
    With all due respect to Dan Gelbart, I know many people with decades experience in automotive refinishing field who responded with "he's FOS!" when told that "stray hydrocarbon residue" was
    detrimental to their final product.

    I KNOW, I know, I watched his videos too and still think he's onto (if not "on") something but I certainly can't argue with years of positive results either.
    I'M certainly going to try it next time I paint.

    Back on track; you can get a relatively inexpensive sample kit from Moglice that might just be enough for a skim coat.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doozer
    replied
    Also, after you spotlessly clean with lacquer thinner more times than
    you think you need to, follow that with Comet cleanser (or Ajax,
    Barkeeper's Friend, those type of cleansers) and water.
    Make a paste and scrub the surface with your fingers, rubbing the
    cleanser in and rinse with clean water. You should be able to see
    the water "wet" down the surface, with no beading up. This is
    an important step to remove any hydrocarbon residue to promote
    the maximum adhesion. Paint and epoxies no not like to stick to
    surfaces with stray hydrocarbons from a wipedown with solvent.
    Use a water based cleanser for absolute surface adhesion.

    -Doozer

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    If there is original level surface left, same level as adjacent un-gouged areas, then just fill the gouges with epoxy to prevent swarf from collecting, and use a burr file to level it off flush with the surrounding area.

    I did that years ago on the lathe, the epoxy is still there, despite oil etc. You DO need to clean 3more times than you think is enough, using a good solvent, before epoxying.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doozer
    replied
    The right side looks fine, some scraping still present.
    By chance did someone grease lube it??


    --D

    Leave a comment:


  • bborr01
    replied
    Are those box ways? If they are dovetail ways, that surface shouldn't make any difference.

    Brian

    Leave a comment:


  • SGW
    replied
    Look up "Moglice" as an option, for example http://moglice-turcite.com/

    Leave a comment:

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