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How Would You Countersink This???

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  • How Would You Countersink This???

    I need to come up with a way to countersink a couple holes inside this piece of cut out rectangular tube for the FHSC screw. With out making some special cutter or modifying an existing dovetail cutter, I'm at a loss. The inside width is .750. Other ways would be to simply notch the back out to allow access of a counter sink, so give me some other ideas?????

    JL..............


  • #2
    With something similar to a back spotfacing tool: http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf/USCatalo...utBrochure.pdf

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    • #3
      Can you get in there with a die grinder?

      Just a thought.

      Mtw fdu.

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      • #4
        Grind a cutting edge on screw. Stick screw through hole and mount in cordless drill. Spin and pull.


        Or make an access hole on opposite side of tube. You may want that anyway for tightening the screw.

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        • #5
          I like the cutting edge on a screw idea. You could use a grade 5 or grade 8 screw and it should last for a bunch of holes in aluminum.

          Another idea would be to drill the holes somewhat large and use the next larger size, flat head screw PRESSED in with a purpose made clamp. Again, use a grade 5 or grade 8 screw for your tool. You will need a good back up block with a matching hole in it to support the outside surface. This would go fast if you have a lot of them to do.

          I suggest using a screw that is a size larger so you can bring the counter sink down to the level of the inner surface or even a bit below it. That way the final size screw will not protrude above that surface.



          Originally posted by Boostinjdm View Post
          Grind a cutting edge on screw. Stick screw through hole and mount in cordless drill. Spin and pull.


          Or make an access hole on opposite side of tube. You may want that anyway for tightening the screw.
          Last edited by Paul Alciatore; 04-22-2015, 03:44 PM.
          Paul A.

          Make it fit.
          You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

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          • #6
            Make a countersink out of drill rod with a removable head that screws onto the arbor such that the cutting teeth are "up." The teeth don't have to be all that great. You can mill or file them to shape before hardening. Put the head in the slot, feed the arbor through the hole, screw it into the countersink, and pull the countersink into the hole (while it's turning, obviously).

            I've made a couple reverse-spotfacers like this. It's not particularly difficult. Just be sure to make the teeth cut in the correct direction.
            ----------
            Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
            Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
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            • #7
              Ask the engineer who designed the bloody thing.

              -Doozer
              DZER

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              • #8
                How many holes? How many lineal feet of channel?

                A thought that has not been mentioned is to add a
                second triangular 'filler' piece. Countersink the face
                of the triangle's hypotenuse.

                Edit: The filler piece would not necessarily need to
                be the full length of the channel. Just make a number
                of segments - say an inch long each and install as
                required.

                .
                Last edited by EddyCurr; 04-22-2015, 05:57 PM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Boostinjdm View Post
                  Grind a cutting edge on screw. Stick screw through hole and mount in cordless drill. Spin and pull.


                  Or make an access hole on opposite side of tube. You may want that anyway for tightening the screw.
                  This is what I thought of doing, but not too sure what the cutting edge should look like on the screw.

                  JL..............

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                  • #10
                    It would look just like the cutting edge of a countersink. One or more cutting edges, flutes, relief, etc., except the shank would be on the nose instead of behind the head of the countersink.

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                    • #11
                      Would something like these work for you?
                      http://www.travers.com/noga-reversib...vel3 id 297907
                      Last edited by Hawkeye; 04-22-2015, 06:11 PM.
                      When I get Time... I'll...

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Doozer View Post
                        Ask the engineer who designed the bloody thing.

                        -Doozer
                        My thoughts too. Of course a lot of engineers (and I are one) these days couldn't tell you the difference between a drill bit and a countersink anyways, so it may not have been considered.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Hawkeye View Post
                          Would something like these work for you?
                          http://www.travers.com/noga-reversib...vel3 id 297907
                          For deburring, not for countersinking.

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                          • #14
                            engineers !!! ya' and I are one too. Why countersunk? Pure cosmetic or does the inside of the channel have to be clear? By the time you countersink for full depth of the head , there will ne scat material left to hold on to. Perhaps, better with an angled washer and a button head socket screw.

                            Joe B

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                            • #15
                              It is very easy to design a very expensive part!

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