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Stuck Intrarapid 312-B

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  • Stuck Intrarapid 312-B

    Accidentally hit the floor (mag base list contact). Only works one way. Ideas?
    Forty plus years and I still have ten toes, ten fingers and both eyes. I must be doing something right.

  • #2
    1) time to learn watch making, take apart and fix

    or

    2) start cruising kijiji for a replacement.

    3) send out for repair. Even for an interapid though, I wonder if its worth sending out .....with shipping and taxes I can usually get one on kijiji for the same or less
    Last edited by Mcgyver; 07-11-2015, 11:24 AM.
    .

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    • #3
      Step one: discard faulty magnetic base
      Step two: send to Long Island Indicator: http://www.longislandindicator.com/

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      • #4
        The mag base is a starrettt. The problem wasn't the base, the problem was the powdercoat on the machne frame. I'll check into the link
        Forty plus years and I still have ten toes, ten fingers and both eyes. I must be doing something right.

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        • #5
          If it were me, and if I was not very very sure of the accuracy and consistency of that indicator and given that they are not that expensive it would have been in the "bin" first thing after I tested it after I picked it back up.

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          • #6
            The couple of Interapids I have were close to $200US. That doesn't seem "not that expensive" to me, but then I'm not a wealthy plantation owner like oldtiffie. I could not bin one so easily without some effort to revive it.
            Last edited by Toolguy; 07-12-2015, 09:44 PM.

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            • #7
              I am not "rich" nor am I a "plantation owner" either but a "hit" like ruining a good Inter-rapid indicator "hurts" and is a good lesson in the need to be careful with expensive (or any) such "stuff".

              I have no need for genuine Inter-rapid's or the like either as the range of indicators my supplier sells are very good, as good a Inter-rapids (for my needs anyway) and certainly cheaper.

              My supplier of that sort of stuff is only about 25 miles (~40Km) away and I can be there and back within a few hours if needs be - but I have spare indicators too and other "work-arounds" as well.

              http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Dial-Test-Indicators

              The exchange rate here is about US$ 1.00 ~ AU$ 0.75 i.e. "repair by replacement" as that "hits where it hurts" and drives the lesson well and truly home - as it should (and does).

              My philosophy in general is that if I "f*ck" it I fix it.
              Last edited by oldtiffie; 07-12-2015, 10:01 PM.

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              • #8
                Cheap indicators are cheap, good ones cost money.

                You may buy cheaper ones Tifffie and they may be good enough for you but in no part of the known universe are they as good as an Interrapid.
                The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

                Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

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                • #9
                  Step 1. Send Indicator off for repair
                  Step 2. Buy back-up indicator using ENCO 20% off code CYBER and Free Shipping code MONDAY (good today)

                  I have an Interapid, but I like Compac and B&S: built by the same folks, just a little bit cheaper.
                  Mike Hunter

                  www.mikehunterrestorations.com

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by loose nut View Post
                    .

                    You may buy cheaper ones Tifffie
                    hey, come now, they photograph as well as the best the Swiss have to offer
                    .

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                    • #11
                      It will go off for repair. A guy at work has a source for new ones deeply discounted. Plus work might, just might, replace as it happened there
                      Forty plus years and I still have ten toes, ten fingers and both eyes. I must be doing something right.

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                      • #12
                        My general philosophy in most "money" matters is that I am more (only?) interested in the value for money in terms of the required performance.

                        In other words I am more interested in it as an "investment" item rather than as a "cost" item.

                        As long as it does the job required for the money paid its good value for money here anyway.

                        I don't buy by "name" - only by "performance" - which given the quite adequate choices I have here at my Dealer's place and the warranty that he provides that I don't need (or necessarily want) "Inter-rapids" or "Starrett" or the like - which in my book are in the "nice to have" but not necessarily "need to have" categories.

                        This is not and is not meant to be criticism of what others may or may not do in similar circumstances.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by oldtiffie View Post

                          As long as it does the job required for the money paid its good value for money here anyway.
                          Well that's the trick isn't it Tiffie. Getting your value for the money, especially in a home shop where we have to pay for it. I have some Chinese Mics that are very good/accurate and dirt cheap but my experiences with Chinese Digital calipers has been dismal, not worth the money, barely worth the effort to bin them. I decided to bite the bullet and spend the extra money for decent Calipers/indicators, as required, even good ones only last so long and have been replacing the rest of my dubious cheap measuring tools with good used "quality" tools or new if necessary. It has made a big difference on my ability to hold dimensional tolerances.

                          To each his own.
                          The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

                          Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

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                          • #14
                            Thanks loose nut - appreciated.

                            It has made a big difference on my ability to hold dimensional tolerances.
                            That statement to me is "key" as I normally don't try or see the need to unnecessarily work to "tenths" when a "thou" (or more) is adequate for the required out-come.

                            There are exceptions of course and others have different needs to me in that regard and I respect their decisions.

                            I do make a fair bit of use with "tolerance" and "limits and fits" tables as well as any tables or advice recommended by manufactures too.

                            Once I have decided on the limits I am to work to/between I get on with it.

                            The "width" of latitude in "tables" might surprise some here - or perhaps not.

                            But at the end of the day I like to have all or most of my options available and I select the one/s that suit me, my machines and my tools and the functionality of the end product/outcome.

                            I sometimes have to "re-think" some jobs for various reasons - and so I do it.

                            Quite often an "off the shelf" item will do "as is" or with little change.

                            If I need to buy another tool or material then I do that too.

                            Its not always that (seemingly) easy or "cut and dried" bit it is quite often the case more often then not.

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                            • #15
                              I bought some test indicators at auction a while back, with just photos to go by. Among them were two 312-B's. The top dowel plate on one of them had been ripped off and was gone, leaving the remnants of the screws in the holes. Not sure if it was spun in a spindle, or what, but it works just fine. There doesn't seem to be any impact marks. Never would have thought it could survive that.

                              I've been wondering how to remove the bent screw remnants, while not getting bits of metal inside. Alternatively, I could leave them and fasten a new dowel plate to the surface via some means.

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