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ideas for QCTP top nut replacement

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  • #16
    It might take some trial and error, but maybe you could machine an angle on the top of the "nut" that controls the tightening of the wedge or piston and a similar angle on a "washer" that fits under the "T" Slot tightening nut (top nut). With some tinkering of the top nut adjustment you could make the tool holder and "T" slot to Compound adjustment tighten with only the existing handle.
    Sorry if my idea isn't clearly stated. The idea is to use a cam type arrangement to tighten both the tool holder and the body to compound with only one handle by using a cam on the top of the round portion of the existing tool holder tightening lever.

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    • #17
      I just went through my extra sockets and drove a rod in the hole in the side and bent it up and I am happy it is out of the way and work great and can remove easily
      Ed
      Agua Dulce, So.California
      1950 F1 street rod
      1949 F1 stock V8 flathead
      1948 F6 350 chevy/rest stock, no dump bed
      1953 chevy 3100 AD for 85 S10 frame have a 4BT cummins motor, NV4500
      1968 Baha Bug with 2.2 ecotec motor, king coil-overs,P/S

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      • #18
        I have bought several wrenches to dedicate to one use in the shop and the wrench for nut on my Aloris is one of them I keep it hanging off the end of my tool holder rack. I have started several times to design a new nut but decided that none of them were worth making as I had the wrench right there. I think the one for the Aloris is a Harbor Freight I picked up at a yard sale for $0.50
        Dan.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
          I needed several tools to use with my QCTP so I made up this:



          It was inspired by an automotive lug wrench. The socket is for the mounting nut and the two Allens are for the two sizes of SHCS I used in the holders. There is no tool for changing the holders as each holder has it's own adjustable lock down screw. I can change tool holders with one hand and one quick motion.

          I locked the threads with epoxy so it will not come apart in use.

          Due to it's shape and size, it is not likely to get lost or misplaced in the shop.
          That is pretty cool... I didnt think about also incorporating the allen keys but thats a great idea. This may indeed be what I make up

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Doc Nickel View Post
            ... You're worried about one extra tool?

            I often don't have enough tools nearby. Besides two dozen QC toolblocks and the usual debris like dial calipers, a hole gage and a 6" scale, there's the L-series wrench, a big Crescent used to hold the chuck when using the wrench, at least two files (various tooth counts) a 7/16" wrench for the compound rotation, carriage lock, threading dial and carriage stop, a brass brush (for keeping the files clean) and a toothbrush (for keeping swarf out of the QC dovetails) a deburring knife, a countersink, a couple small honing stones, an oil cup and brush, an oil can, a T-handle for the QC block screws, a fistful of HSS, a small screwdriver for the zero-set dials, a smattering of allen keys (for indexible inserts, removable chuck jaw bolts, boring bar adjustments, two chuck keys (for two different size tailstock drill chucks) two chuck wrenches (one of the 3-jaw and one for the 4-jaw) a tailstock clamping wrench and a toolpost wrench.

            Sure, it's nice to have a clean and tidy machine, but when you're using it- and I spend way more time using it than cleaning it - it's even nicer to have every tool you need right there. You don't have to dig it out of a drawer or go get it from a box.

            And personally, I've tried the "second handle" approach like in VPT's pic, and didn't like it. It was always getting in the way, as I was swapping toolblocks far more often than I was ever rotating the toolpost.

            Everyone's different of course, but in my opinion, I have no problem with a nearby wrench on a hook.

            Doc.
            I just made this from a socket and scrap from around my shop last week, and it may be too short to get enough leverage on. OTOH, this is only an AXA qctp on a 65 year old Clausing, so time will tell if I need to go back to a wrench.
            Salem, Oregon

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            • #21
              ADJUSTABLE CLAMPING HANDLE, female



              Many other sources.



              They are neat because the handle can be adjusted to any position so it is out of the way when tightened without any need for shim washers.
              Paul A.
              SE Texas

              And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
              You will find that it has discrete steps.

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              • #22
                I kinda like the idea of a combo tool.... Tired of having two or three hex wrenches to reach for when dealing with tool holder
                'adjustments'.

                Thinking about shortening the holder lock handle on the tool post as I never have to apply that much force to lock in the
                holders. Not sure why they're so long!

                Pete
                1973 SB 10K .
                BenchMaster mill.

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                • #23
                  I just did this about a week or so ago. Found some scrap. Drill and tapped it for the tool post stud and then found the angle I wanted the handle and made a hole for the handle. The handle was a piece of stainless scrap. Then tigged it all togehter. Still need to find a knob. Works great. Saves time.
                  Here is a vid.
                  http://youtu.be/NZ7iCSwx7Jw

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                  • #24
                    Yea, and you either have to find the right Allen wrench size in the set or if you have dedicated ones at the machine (I do that also) they can be easily lost. The combo tool has never been hard to find on my lathe bench. NEVER! It stands out like a blinking neon light.

                    And by the way, here are some shots of my dedicated tools for my mill:



                    The peg board is held on to the mill head by magnets so I can easily and quickly remove it if I need to tilt the head.



                    It is a bit hard to see, but the Allens are at the front edge of that collet and cutter rack.
                    Paul A.
                    SE Texas

                    And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                    You will find that it has discrete steps.

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