Hub Puller Design

[alsinaj]

I'm faced with pulling the splined hubs off the rear axle of my '63 Jaguar. I'm pretty sure the hubs haven't been removed for 52 years. It's reportedly a difficult job, and pretty much impossible without Churchill tool JD7, a 5-lb lump that is now selling on ebay for $800 (if you don't believe it, go to ebay and search on Churchill JD7).

So, I need to make this tool:



The thread on the central screw is 12 TPI and the ends of the body have female 52mm x something threads that screw onto the hub (one end has RH thread, the other LH for the left and right hubs, respectively). That looks fairly straightforward to make, but even with this tool, users report having to use a 4-foot cheater bar, a BFH, and heat. So, would it be worthwhile to make a differential screw puller like this?



If the outer screw is 1 x 8 tpi and the inner is 5/8 x 11, the effective TPI is 29, which should reduce the need to rent a gorilla.

Second question: I'm only going to use this tool 4 times at most, and I don't have a good set-up for hardening something this size. Given the pressures involved, do I absolutely have to harden this thing, or can I get away without?

[boslab]

Should be alright, bit of copper grease maybe, nice drawing, shouldn't need diff puller, I use a cheap hydraulic one, or did I should say.
Mark

[John Garner]

Differential screws sound better than the work, as they suffer big friction losses. If you're making your own puller, and want to modify the design, incorporating a hydraulic ram in place of the screw or changing the tension screw threadform to acme / trapezoidal or even square might end up making you happier.

[RichR]

If the outer screw is 1 x 8 tpi and the inner is 5/8 x 11, the effective TPI is 29, which should reduce the need to rent a gorilla.

Maybe try a single 1/2-20 screw, or if you are feeling adventurous, a 3/8-24.

[Mcgyver]

why not just make a 1" 30 tpi or something? Differential screws are a lot of work (made 'em) and the result is a weaker set up......really all you want is less inclined plane so up tpi

[old mart]

You would have more leeway in the design if you made two bodies, one LH and the other RH. In the UK there was a hydraulic puller made by Picavant which I borrowed many years ago from my local garage, they had two and accidentally lent me the duff one. I filled it with grease and it worked long enough for my purposes. I would make a hydraulic tool utilising "o" rings, fitted with a grease nipple and powered by a grease gun.

[Guido]

#6, old mart-------X---------2,3,4, whatever----

[ed_h]

Those British must love tight hubs. The rear hubs on Triumph TR6 cars are notorious for being difficult to get into. There is a Churchill tool for those, too, but also selling for hundreds if you can even find one. This is my home made Churchill for the TR6. It is based around a Grade 8 3/4 inch nut and bolt. This, along with a cheater bar and lot of acetylene and swearing, finally cracked both of mine loose.

Ed

[vpt]

I am pretty sure I just stuck the hubs in the hydraulic press and pressed them out.

[alsinaj]

Ed-H, That sounds about right. The combination of a long taper with a long key in it makes lots of surface area for corrosion.

VPT, So you removed the hub, axle, and bearings as a unit and then pressed the axle out of the hub? Was it a Jag? Was the hub mounted on a taper with a big (long) key in it?

[Mike Amick]

The hell with all that ... I want to see a pic of the car.

[Ian B]

If you'r emaking it from scratch, how about incorporating an off the shelf hydraulic unit, instead of the screw. Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spare-10-T...JbP2N-8abQYLpQ

Ian

[vpt]

Ed-H, That sounds about right. The combination of a long taper with a long key in it makes lots of surface area for corrosion.

VPT, So you removed the hub, axle, and bearings as a unit and then pressed the axle out of the hub? Was it a Jag? Was the hub mounted on a taper with a big (long) key in it?

I did two of them, a 73 v12 car and a 63 I6 car. If I remember right the axles just slid out without any force then the hub can be taken to the press to get the hubs pressed out. I honestly don't remember the taper or key. These cars are just a blur of oddness to me when I work on them.

[Seastar]

Yep, old English cars are just a " blur of oddness".
At least my 57 Triumph TR3A is-----
Bill

[bruto]

I used to have an old Scout with the brake drums mounted on a tapered axle shaft, and for that, I had a three jaw puller that bolted to wheel studs. They're mighty expensive nowadays, but this was the tool that really worked. I paid much less back in 1974 at Sears, of course, but it was the same tool as that shown. Too bad you're so far away, or i'd let you borrow mine.

http://www.zoro.com/otc-universal-hub-puller-7394/i/G2754141/?gclid=CObav8bVjckCFUQjgQodXnYPSQ&gclsrc=aw.ds