No announcement yet.

3 Scissor Type Knurlers... Reviews?

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 3 Scissor Type Knurlers... Reviews?

    I am trying to choose a knurler and this is ebay's offering. Any opinions?

    The real McCoy:

    The maybe decent copy:

    The cheapest and the crudest:

    Any that I may be overlooking?

  • #2
    I think the 'good one' has a considerable minimum work diameter which may be an issue?


    • #3
      I would buy the cheap one. The top one is ten times more expensive. Is it made of gold? Heck buy ten of the cheap ones and you'll be able to give them as Christmas presents!!!


      • #4
        I have bought both types of clamp and scissor knurls over the years. The cheap ones usually work fine with a good set of knurling wheels. The biggest difference is in the quality of the tool. The cheap ones usually need a little work. The fit of the parts together is a little sloppy and the quality of the knurl produced reflects that. If you take the time to work the cheap ones over you can have a quality tool. Stefan Gotteswinter has a YouTube video of a cheap knurling tool that he reworks to make a quality tool. It just depends how much effort you want to put into your cheap tool.

        Hello, my name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic!

        Hello, my name is brian and I'm a toolaholic.


        • #5
          I have one of the copies of the Eagle Rock. Don't remember what it cost, but it's a cheapie all right. To cut to the chase,
          the fit of the parts is sloppy loose and the arms wouldn't stay in line with each other. And the pivot was sloppy loose
          on the holder arm allowing the arms to move way off square.

          This was all greatly improved to the point of the tool being perfectly useful by flattening mating surfaces, reducing
          clearances, etc., until almost no unwanted movement was possible.

          The metal itself seems ok except the roller pins which are too soft. Replacing them with hard dowel pins fixed this

          So based on my experience I'd say get the inexpensive one and do the rework. Save a bundle and maybe buy some
          better knurling rolls for it. They are sorta 'not sharp' but do OK.

          1973 SB 10K .
          BenchMaster mill.


          • #6
            It depends on your priorities. I (unknowingly) bought a poor quality knurling tool, and resented the time I had to spend to make it work.



            • #7
              Originally posted by ahidley View Post
              I would buy the cheap one. The top one is ten times more expensive. Is it made of gold? Heck buy ten of the cheap ones and you'll be able to give them as Christmas presents!!!
              And they charge for shipping while the cheap one ships free.


              • #8
                Buy a pair of Knurls and made a knurl milling tool.

                Regards Ian
                You might not like what I say,but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.


                • #9
                  Eagle Rock makes a smaller capacity tool for under $200.

                  One of the differences between the tools will be the quality of the knurls themselves, good knurling wheels are not inexpensive, and cheap ones are useless. There have been many plans and articles on building scissor knurling tools, they are not that difficult to make from scratch compared to the efforts of remaking a cheap copy.
                  Jim H.


                  • #10
                    Something funny is going on with scissor knurling tools. I have two of the type shown in the OP's post, there're very slightly different, but the strange thing is neither one has any markings of the manufacturer. They may have originally had paste on stickers which are long gone now. This makes me wonder if they aren't all generic, made in the same factory slightly varying in design over the years.

                    My favorite opposed wheel knurler was made by Brown & Sharpe, knowing B&S tooling it probably was five to ten times the cost of the Eagle Rock version. This unit is more compact than the posted ones having been made for use on high production screw machines with cramped tooling space. Because of it's compactness we used it in the CNC lathes for production work. If you want to talk looseness of the arms, the B&s has my others beat by a long shot making me believe that's necessary for self alignment. Never had a bad knurl after the first few pieces adjusting for diameter.

                    When production knurling the tool is fed onto the work center fast, it dwells on center for a couple of revolutions of the work then moves off in rapid feed. The whole process is a couple seconds.
                    Last edited by DR; 12-05-2015, 09:11 AM.


                    • #11
                      Look at the eagle rock link.seller is asking more than the catalog price in his


                      • #12
                        I'd go with Eagle Rock. Just buy either directly or, for much less money, used (it wasn't easy to find when I was buying mine).

                        As for the first link of yours, did you notice that the seller is from India? With all due respect to Indian culture, traditions and philosophy, Indian tool of an acceptable quality is an oxymoron.
                        Last edited by MichaelP; 12-05-2015, 09:24 AM.
                        WI/IL border, USA


                        • #13
                          My virus software picked up something with a "severe" nature from one of the OP's links. Security Essentials quarantined it.


                          • #14
                            I bought the "import" one from Enco which appears to be equivalent to the "decent copy". After some minor tweaks, it works well. If you have the material/time, it would be relatively easy to make (see: ).


                            • #15
                              I have the Eagle Rock, bought it about 10 years ago and if IIRC it was about $140 or so back then. It is well made and works great and I have had no problems with it.

                              The first thing I did was remove the piece that you clamp in the block and to replace it with a block I made to fit the QC toolpost .