Vehicle clock face restoration

[Zahnrad Kopf]

Okay... because this forum has no "like" button... I just have to post to say, " THAT IS AWESOME!!! "

[MrFluffy]

If I recall correctly, the post-war Jaeger instruments were just an up-market badged version of the standard Smiths instruments, so parts should be interchangeable. It's possible to add an odometer to one that hasn't got it by cutting a hole in the dial and putting suitable works behind (though it won't have the original bevel shaping round it). I did this to a Minor speedo in the seventies. However, the case from the non-odometer one will not have the screwed boss behind which takes the reset cable. The original is swaged into the case, so you would have to swap and improvise if you aren't using the original case.

Your dial may have a small number printed on it (possibly next to the Jaeger name - I can't tell from the photo) which gives the number of turns per mile for the odometer. Odometers all had the same basic mechanism but the ratchet wheel had a different number of teeth for the different ratios. As long as you fit a wheel with the same number of teeth as your original, the odometer will be correct. I don't know how the speed indication was set up, so you would need to investigate that yourself.

George

Hi George, your spot on there, this is is the crux of the issue which makes things more awkward that it appears at first now I've had a chance to research and confirm some stuff, land rover fitted the same speedometer drive gearbox to all the cars they built with the lt95 transmission (range rover, lightweight, 101 etc) and fitted a different ratio speedometer head to cater for the different wheel diameters and gearing fitted. The only info I can find is to match up the number printed on the dial face at the bottom, and the only matching unit I've seen so far has been the 200 quid one from cyprus...
The 101 speedometer needs to have the 1403 drive ratio innards as per this shot cribbed from someone elses speedo resto.


Heres a series unit with odo that I just picked up this week, it has 1504 drive unit fitted, but I may be able to rebuild the 101 clock using its face but the head innards from the 101 unit.

Probably given how accurate they are by now, a 1504 and a 1401 might not read much difference in the real world mind.


Zahnrad, I think so too, thats why I'm committing myself to weekends sorting out stuff on it. Punctuated with a few runs out in the sun to the odd show with the top off and the occasional green lane.

[Carm]

I have some uv lamps, not sure if theyre the correct wavelength but will check. Your post led me back to google to find this gem, a interesting run down of the process :-
http://velobanjogent.blogspot.fr/201...eedometer.html

I'm going to see if I can enamel screen printing dye local and give this a go.

The UV lamps you have will work, but you might not need them as not all screen print fluids require that curing.
Although screen print gear is pretty basic, and can even be improvised, there is a learning curve, and for a one off likely impractical.

[Zahnrad Kopf]

Zahnrad, I think so too, thats why I'm committing myself to weekends sorting out stuff on it. Punctuated with a few runs out in the sun to the odd show with the top off and the occasional green lane.

Well done. Will you be keeping the cargo kit as is? Always thought the Ambo body would make a nice, rugged, interesting caravan.

[MrFluffy]

Yes, this is in timewarp unbutchered condition really, I'll be the second owner in the civilian log book and it only has 10,000 miles on the clock total. I have two camper vans and no desire to laden this down with water tanks and toilets and other comforts, though there have been a lot of 101 campers built for overlanding. My wife can drive the normal camper van with all that in as suport crew and theres not much chance of safari in mainland europe.
The Ambi body is a tad heavier and puts it in a different weight class which requires different testing, insurance, drivers permit etc and make them a little more ponderous off road. The MOD had the GS recertified from 3.1ton to 3.65t so they could carry the rapier missile pack amongst other roles but if you take off the extra additional rating plate the GS reverts to the original manufacturers 3.1 ton rating and this means I can legally drive it on a normal car license.
What I like about the rear the best is if you slide off the upper folding side and the canvas, and lower the smaller lower slide flap they take a standard nato pallet amidships right in the gap. That was right there in the design specs the mod laid out, air portable with the wessex helicopter (they all still have the lifting eyes and a lot have bent bump stops too), and take a standard nato pallet with a 1t load + full crew when fully kitted. I can just see it coming home with a machine lashed in place using that facility. Especially given I know it can take 2t without flinching should I mis-calculate like I have once or twice in the past. 14mpg but it has to be better than having your machine beaten up by general freight services.

[Zahnrad Kopf]

Yes, this is in timewarp unbutchered condition really, I'll be the second owner in the civilian log book and it only has 10,000 miles on the clock total. I have two camper vans and no desire to laden this down with water tanks and toilets and other comforts, though there have been a lot of 101 campers built for overlanding. My wife can drive the normal camper van with all that in as suport crew and theres not much chance of safari in mainland europe.
The Ambi body is a tad heavier and puts it in a different weight class which requires different testing, insurance, drivers permit etc and make them a little more ponderous off road. The MOD had the GS recertified from 3.1ton to 3.65t so they could carry the rapier missile pack amongst other roles but if you take off the extra additional rating plate the GS reverts to the original manufacturers 3.1 ton rating and this means I can legally drive it on a normal car license.
What I like about the rear the best is if you slide off the upper folding side and the canvas, and lower the smaller lower slide flap they take a standard nato pallet amidships right in the gap. That was right there in the design specs the mod laid out, air portable with the wessex helicopter (they all still have the lifting eyes and a lot have bent bump stops too), and take a standard nato pallet with a 1t load + full crew when fully kitted. I can just see it coming home with a machine lashed in place using that facility. Especially given I know it can take 2t without flinching should I mis-calculate like I have once or twice in the past. 14mpg but it has to be better than having your machine beaten up by general freight services.

Carry on, Sir!

[MrFluffy]

Carrying on!

I managed to get a orange rust km clock and clean it up enough to get a transfer made for the original speedometer by a local print shop, and I've identified that the gauges are the same as certain civilian models of series land rover so I've just painted and reglassed the gauge cluster for now.
Before :-


After, I'm waiting on replacement switchgear + new switch decals to arrive after everything but the military lightswitch was bad down to needing a fusebox, horn, washer pump seized etc, we think it was stored with no roof on for all the electrics to be that bad. Not happy with the dash paint but this is about getting it legal and not having to stare at broken rotten looking gauges, not a resto :-


I've also ordered the add on laser for my bridgeport for future use as I think I'm going to have to add a fog lamp and as they didnt have one, I may have to make a switch motif up using this process.

Slowly getting there, now the long wait for my paperwork to finish registration to arrive...

[RancherBill]

This would be perfect for your dial. I saw this on GJ and loved it. I am going to do it on an upcoming project.

Use a decal, like they use on model planes.

Instructions
Inkjet paper Instructions
Always use Bel Papers

How To Apply Inkjet waterslide decal paper
Step #1: Design your decals using any graphic software program. (Use 8 1/2 " x 11" sheet BEL INK JET Decal Paper or cut sheet into half if desired.)

Step #2: Set your printer as follows:

Resolution = Best
Paper = Photo Gloss
(Print your decal on the glossy side of BEL INK JET Decal Paper.)


Step #3: Spray your printed sheet evenly with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear High Gloss spray until the sheet has a shine (2-3 coats). Allow 30 to 60 minutes to dry and set. (This product is available at any craft or hardware store such as Loews, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc. Any acrylic clear coat spray will work.)

Step #4: Cut out your image using a standard pair of sharp household scissors.

Step #5: Place decal into a cup of clean water for 45-60 seconds and remove when the thin decal film begins to slip along backing. (Discard backing material after the decal has been removed)

Step #6: Apply decal to clean surface; ceramic, glass, metal, plastic, soap, candles, mylar balloons, model trains, planes, cars, etc.

http://www.decalpaper.com/product-p/25c.htm

In your case, I'd make a new dial, instead of using the old rusted on and just slap it on. I'd seal with additional clear coat. Spending $23 and some fiddling is cheap.

[plunger]

Damn that thing is beautiful in its ugliness.

[MrFluffy]

This is a sort of where Ive disappeared to post, but ill update the original thread instead.
The 101 was a long slog with paperwork, but I finally got it on the road 6 weeks ago. :-


And then driving it 5 weeks ago, the motor overheated and overpressured suddenly after behaving itself for 100km and the inspection and passing emissions, and blew out the radiator cap, this sprayed superheated antifreeze onto the rear of a inspection flap, which had been fitted with a plastic catch by someone which failed. This opened and sprayed the water into the cab, burning me badly and blinding me temporary and we left the road and crashed heavily into a ditch, hitting something solid in the bottom of the ditch. The front of the cab crushed back and my daughter had to be cut from the wreckage and had a fractured knee, and I had a mix of 1st 2nd and 3rd degree burns to 44% of my body apparently, spent 4 weeks in isolation in a specialist burns hospital, 3 large skin grafts and a week in general ward and just got out. And now I have to rebuild the cab because its in pretty bad shape and replace all the bits cut apart by the fire brigade doing their job (wouldnt have it any other way either), but we're both alive and my daughter is walking without crutches and a cast today, and I'm just waiting for my skin to finish growing back. Could have been so so much worse...


Have to wait before the docs give me the all clear to play in the shop again though because of risk of infection while it finally seals up. I wonder, does using my cnc mill qualify if I get someone else to load the stock?

[Zahnrad Kopf]

Whoa. Holy [email protected], Fluff!!! Glad you're both alive and as well as you are. Get well quickly.

[Weston Bye]

Whoa. Holy [email protected], Fluff!!! Glad you're both alive and as well as you are. Get well quickly.

^^^My very words. Get well. Sounds like you plan to get back on the horse.