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Using super glue to fasten part to face plate before machining?

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  • Using super glue to fasten part to face plate before machining?

    I need to lathe something that is difficult to clamp. I was wondering if I could fasten the part to a face plate using super glue and then machine. To remove it, I was going to soak it in acetone.

    Has anyone tried this and if so, what were the results?


  • #2
    That has been written up many times, typically for clock work. It seems to work, although when I tried it I had the part pop off because I got a bit too agressive.

    They usually show an aluminum "faceplate" with grooves in it as the holder, with a pilot pin in the middle to help hold the part(gear work). And they suggest heat as the removal tool (yeah, yeah, toxic fumes, ventilation, etc).

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan


    • #3

      How about reusable sealing wax?
      Jewelers and dentists use it to temporarally secure small items to polish/ machine/ carve



      • #4
        There's actually a recipe for such a temporary adhesive. IIRC, it's made with beeswax and rosin then heated.

        If you have access to The Amateur's Lathe by Sparey it's in there.

        I may have time to look it up later tonight.


        • #5
          I've used double-sided tape. It helps if you put a couple of stop blocks beside the piece so it can't shift.

          Also, light cuts, avoid shock, and avoid as much "lift" force as possible.
          Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
          Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
          Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
          There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
          Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
          Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie


          • #6
            Shellac has been used for this same purpose. Stick shellac, as woodworkers use for repairing dents, holes in furniture etc. An alcohol lamp is typicaly used to warm the faceplate until the shellac melts, the part is centered in the warm shellac, and is turned once the whole thing becomes solid. Removal by warming again. I has pretty much the same limitations as instant glues, ie. light cuts. Shellac flakes will serve the same purpose.

            [This message has been edited by gvasale (edited 07-13-2004).]


            • #7
              I've used super glue to stick stops on my milling vise jaws, worked pretty good.


              • #8
                Done it several ways..
                Super Glue is OK if the part is light, and you will not hurt yourself or the part if it comes off. We have used doublesided tape as well on large flat parts..taking light cuts.
                Also you may want glue the part to the face plate as needed, remove the faceplate and stick some studs thru the faceplate,build a dam around the outside and pour some Plaster of Paris on the part. this will give you a clump of support for the part, and the studs will help hold the plaster to the faceplate.
                This will allow a little more force handling by your machining.
                Fixture metal like Cerroloy will really do a job here !


                • #9
                  The clockmakers (W. R. Smith for example) like to have circular grooves in the faceplate to facilitate the gluing action. They also advocate heating to remove. Problem with this is production of cyanide gas, so do it outdoors and be upwind!

                  For some shapes, a wooden clamp will work.
                  For example, to hold a large thin disk, bore out a wooden disk until it makes a tight friction fit with with your round piece.

                  What shape are you trying to hold?


                  • #10
                    I have used Bondo for iregularly shaped objects. Remove with heat. It cures in about thirty minutes. I took very light cuts. It worked well!



                    • #11
                      I say Shellac as well. I love using this stuff for holding of thin parts on tables, for filling parts for thin wall machining - turning and milling. I have milled and turned to .003 wall thick ness using shellac as a cavity filler, and have milled parts right on a plate to .010 using this as a holding compound.

                      Here is the secret not mentioned - removal. I do not use heat and such, but rather have this big old tub of mentholatum to "melt" away the shellac.
                      CCBW, MAH


                      • #12
                        It is a good idea to have some safety clamps on the edges of the part to catch it if you have a wreck of some kind. Super glue doesn't have to be heated much to give up. Boiling water is hot enough, no reason to burn things up and make smoke. Drill some holes and make some grooves/scratches in the fixture to allow solvents to get close to the glued surfaces. Stay out of the plane of rotation if you are turning. All this depends on the size and shape of the part. It has been used on parts as large as 72" diameter in my experience.


                        • #13

                          Is the part ferrous?

                          I've seen a couple of nice circular magnetic chucks for sale on Ebay, if you need to do this sort of thing more often, it may be worth considering.

                          All of the gear, no idea...