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OT electrical help with camper trailer

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  • fishfrnzy
    replied
    The trailer accessories run off 12 volt DC but has a shore power 110 male plug so I believe it just converts 110V AC to 12V DC. According to schematic I found in a manual it seems a black wire with 20 amp fuse is supposed to go to converter. Supposedly, when the tow vehicle is charging thee power goes to the converter then back to battery?

    "do you know if its good?" no, I don't, except when I plug into 110 all accessories work fine.

    is there any reason for a ground or negative cable to have fuse on it?

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    So, what's the "converter"?

    Something that makes 110V? Something that makes a lower voltage than 12V?

    Do you know it is good?

    if it's something electronic,and it makes sparks against +12V, it may have capacitors, it may present a legitimate load to the battery, or it may be bad and drawing current when it should not. Presumably it isn't very powerful (15A fuse @ 12V) and it must get its ground from the frame of the trailer.

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  • fishfrnzy
    started a topic OT electrical help with camper trailer

    OT electrical help with camper trailer

    I hope someone here can help and electrically challenged person. I bought a 10 year old pup up camp trailer that has the following accessories converter, heater, fridge, lights, CO alarm & water pump. Of course it came without a battery. It is supposed to charge from my vehicle while towing. It has three wires to hook to the battery. One white which bolted to the chassis so I know that is ground. One red that (with 30 amp fuse) that plugs into a black wire that disappears into the front of the trailer that I know goes to positive terminal.

    Then there is this problem green wire (with 15 amp fuse) that plugs into a black wire and goes back toward the converter and also disappears into the trailer. I believe this should go to the positive terminal but what trouble me is it seems to have continuity when checked with a meter at 2000 ohms and seems to have continuity when checked against the ground wire. The meter is a cheap HF digital and I get readings from the low 200 down to 001 or 000. I occasionally will get minus readings also. I admit to being completely ignorant in how to use a meter but occasionally can get a useful answer from one of the things.

    I tried hooking up red to positive and green and white to negative going with the theory that if I have continuity then they must both be ground wires but then the lights, pump etc don’t work. I would really rather not fry anything so thought best to ask some of the old pros here. The green wire will spark if I scratch it on the positive terminal, for what it’s worth.

    thanks in advance
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