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Dress a diamond cup wheel ?

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  • Dress a diamond cup wheel ?

    Anyone ever dress a diamond cup wheel ?
    I've got one that I bought from CDCO a few years ago, has given good service but now the corner of the leading edge has a chip in it.
    I've been trying to "dress" it out but can't seem to find anything that will dress it. Tried a diamond dressing nib - just floated over top.

  • #2
    When I did a search on this recently I found a post by someone who used a green wheel to dress CBN cupwheels.
    Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

    Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
    Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
    Monarch 10EE 1942


    • #3
      To dress a diamond wheel properly you use a brake controlled truing device. Removing any substantial amount of the wheel will take quite a while. Diamond wheels sometimes come with a white stick for cleaning them. I think it is aluminum oxide.

      If it spins up normally and doesn't vibrate much I'd use it as is or buy a new one.






      • #4
        how thick is the diamond? you might not have much there to dress, or enough to get a chip out of.

        I'd ignore it. if vibration is an issue, balance it. set up some balancing ways or bars, balance the wheel by filing on the metal portion close to the rim.
        in Toronto Ontario - where are you?


        • #5
          We used to use a little block of pure Molybdenum to do a cleanup on the diamond wheels on our surface grinders. It's really chewy and seems to pull any foreign material out of the matrix as well as knock off the higher diamonds that were creating little problem lines in the finish.
          A first mildly aggressive pass and then a few finishing passes usually did the trick. Once you got a uniform finish on the moly block it pretty much meant you could get a good finish on your part. 90+% of the time this was done with no coolant and of course a good dust collector running.
          I won't say this will solve your chip problem but if you can find a little chunk of moly it might be worth a try.
          Illigitimi non Carborundum 😎
          9X49 Birmingham Mill, Reid Model 2C Grinder, 13x40 ENCO GH Lathe, 6X18 Craftsman lathe, Sherline CNC mill, Eastwood TIG200 AC/DC and lots of stuff from 30+ years in the trade and 15.5 in refinery unit operations. Now retired. El Paso, TX


          • #6
            As Tim says, a bit of molybdenum works very well for wheel dressing on resin/rubber diamond wheels. For removing a lot of material, a silicon carbide wheel on a brake dresser works much faster, but you've got to buy$$$ or make one, and you may be throwing a lot of expensive wheel away to completely remove a chip.

            Look for molybdenum rod or similar on ebay and you're likely to find it.
            Location- Rugby, Warwickshire. UK


            • #7
              I have read that to true a diamond whee. just grind on a piece of steel. Does not matter if it is soft or hard.


              • #8
                I had (in the past) been using this wheel some to sharpen my tig welding electrodes and noticed that they were wearing into the surface somewhat.
                Yesterday, I tried a large Tig (Tungsten I believe) on the chipped corner and it did wear it away somewhat, though not with any speed. Seems it will take a few goes at it.
                I need to get the chip out (or another wheel) because I need to grind an angle onto the end of a thin carbide planer blade. The chip was catching (and pounding) on the blade and breaking them.


                • #9
                  The chip was catching (and pounding) on the blade and breaking them.

                  Just a wild thought, but I wonder if you could fill the chip in with something? Some kind of epoxy perhaps?
                  Paul A.
                  SE Texas

                  And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                  You will find that it has discrete steps.


                  • #10
                    The trick to sharpening or truing a diamond plated wheel is to attack the substance that is holding the diamonds on, not the diamonds.

                    You have to use something sufficiently soft to let the diamond "cut" through it but hard enough to remove the plating, resin, or whatever is holding it on each "side" of the

                    tiny diamonds or diamond chips.

                    With time (a lot of time) some of the diamonds will fall off and you can "true" your wheel.

                    Speed is not your friend. A few hundred rpm's or so are enough.
                    Vitَria, Brazil


                    • #11
                      I don't see dressing an electroplated wheel working well. I use electroplated wire for cutting concrete which is far coarser than your average electroplated wheel and from new to worn out is less than 20 thou thickness. I thought that the query was on cbn-type wheels where the abrasive is held in a matrix.
                      Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

                      Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
                      Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
                      Monarch 10EE 1942


                      • #12
                        Think I used to use a borazon stick . it was a black 400 grit. Expensive thing about 80 dollars.


                        • #13
                          Use the white aluminum oxide dressing stick to dress the wheel. It erodes the bonding material and lets the diamonds fall out. I sold diamond wheels for 10 years and the aluminum oxide is about the only way to go. If you can reverse direction on wheel rotation periodically, it is effective in eroding support matrix behind the diamond grains and speeds up the dress by removing supporting matrix. Another dodge is to use a coarse, hard stone in a die grinder and run the surfaces together the same direction to crush the diamond surface and laterally across the face of the diamond wheel. This is a little risky as you may add more chips to the wheel in the process.

                          I am wondering why the chip would pound if your grinder spindle is stiff and the workpiece is well supported. That indicates something in the setup is springy or the wheel is worn to have a lump in it, which would lead to going back to the white aluminum oxide dressing stick to true it up.


                          • #14
                            Apologies I didnt use the black norbide but a soft white stone to open uop the pores the norbide was to lightly shape the wheel take of sharp edges, Mike


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by madman View Post
                              Apologies I didnt use the black norbide
                              Mike buddy, we forgive you.
                              in Toronto Ontario - where are you?