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  • #16
    Pole building...

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    • #17
      Recent pole barns I have worked in did not have solid posts anymore. They were laminated up from 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 material. I was told by a builder that it was done so the pressure treatment went clear through the post, not just the outside. Back when I was contractor with a digger derrick I would sometimes get called to drill alongside rotted away posts and drop a new post along side which we through bolted to the old post. Worked well.

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      • #18
        My shop is pole style and happy with it,laminated treated 2x8 with R28 between the post then 1-1/2 R5 styrofoam on both sides of the wall.It is metal clad both sides,posts sit on concrete plug then gravel tamped tight around post.

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        • #19
          I cut all my lumber (northern Hemlock) in the UP & had the post pressure treated .060 foundation grade KDAT. In the heated 12'x54' section I put 6" of Iso foam R 7.2 per inch so R 43 Then 1" over the entire inside so R50 so it heats well. I have electric baseboard, LP & waste oil heaters. It's a great way to build. The reason most post rotted was setting the post the putting concrete in the hole around the post so the post would rot off there. A 16" or 24" concrete disc or 2 in each gile with gravel around the post as Tundra did is spot on the right way. Just like a house that has to have gutters is built wrong.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by garyhlucas View Post
            Recent pole barns I have worked in did not have solid posts anymore. They were laminated up from 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 material. I was told by a builder that it was done so the pressure treatment went clear through the post, not just the outside. Back when I was contractor with a digger derrick I would sometimes get called to drill alongside rotted away posts and drop a new post along side which we through bolted to the old post. Worked well.
            Old style preservation method was to bore a 3/4" hole at a steep downward angle just above grade then pour an ounce or two of used motor oil into it at every oil change. alternate was to use naturally rot resistant wood when building. (sass, ceder, redwood etc)

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