Need to face new faceplate?

[Cannonmn]

Ok while we're on the topic of faceplates, here's my experimental "4-jaw faceplate" setup using four serrated-bottom, articulated toe clamps. I wanted to take 1/2 inch face off this thick steel plate. I could have put it in a Chuck with enough sticking out to face that much off, but the faceplate was mounted already so I thought I'd try it this way-probably won't exceed 75 Rpm. I don't think this way has as much clamping force as a Chuck, but is there another faceplate setup I should use next time? I could have used only 3 clamps, or used articulated clamps at 12 and 3, then plain clamps at 6 and 9 o'clock.

[Cannonmn]

We tried the toe clamp method by facing the plate. It didn't go well, the plate didn't fall off but the front ends of the clamps loosened during turning, messing up the cut and forcing us to quit.

We removed the faceplate and made sure it and the spindle nose were clean, burr-less, etc. We re-mounted it and tightened the nut as much as was with the 30" spanner as before. But this time we took the additional step of beating on the faceplate with deadblow hammer in various places while leaning on the spanner in the tighten direction. Each tap in certain areas let the handle end of the spanner move about 1/2 inch "tighter" until it had gone about 6 more inches than the last install. That reduced runout from 0.017 to 0.010. We then took a light facing cut which reduced runout to under a half-thousandth.

Here's pic after the facing cut

[BCRider]

The proof of the pudding is how consistently it can be replaced. Try removing it and seat it again.

I'm also a bit puzzled on why it won't achieve a good seating without the dead blow treatment. From the picture in this last post it looks like it's the style which is a long taper with a key. Unless the key itself is a really snug fit in your plate I don't see why you should need to rain dead blow swings against it to seat easily. If the key way is that snug then perhaps a touch of judicious filing on the shiny high spots or even open up the keyway a hair to ease the seating? A taper nose fit like this should be pretty easy to position accurately without resorting to that sort of force.

Or did I not spot the style of nose correctly and it's some other style?

[Cannonmn]

Thanks for the info. Yes it is an L1 spindle nose. Don't know why it needed blows either, must be some slight irregularity we couldn't see or feel. We'll keep looking for a cause every time we mount it. If we don't find something fixable we'll just use the same procedure then check runout every time, as whole procedure only takes a few min. If that's all it takes to get essentially zero runout I'm happy to do it.

Edit: Next time I mount it I'll degrease both mating areas and put indicator fluid on one so I can see any points of interference when I remove faceplate.