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3in1 oil long term

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  • #16
    Well, the deed was done before I posted this thread. I specifically didn't apply the solvent and oil wash to the two jeweled bearings. But the rack on the main beam and gear teeth got some as did the sliding bearings for the beam. I guess now we'll see how well it works out.
    Chilliwack BC, Canada

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    • #17
      Oil, grease then wax all in one.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by BCRider View Post
        Well, the deed was done before I posted this thread. I specifically didn't apply the solvent and oil wash to the two jeweled bearings. But the rack on the main beam and gear teeth got some as did the sliding bearings for the beam. I guess now we'll see how well it works out.

        Get back to us in 25 years for an update.

        Oh, it may be a good idea to open a new thread at that time as some here will be really miffed if they open this old thread and discover it is another fossil.
        Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
        Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

        Location: British Columbia

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        • #19
          Not that this is a timely response but I use a lot of Singer sewing machine oil for lighter applications. The 3-in-1 cans sit in their assigned location for slightly heavier applications. (I have both the black and blue cans of 3-in-1.)

          There's usually a can of Singer on my work bench.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Mcgyver View Post

            [Stuff snipped]

            The challenging part is cleaning it with something that leaves no residue...various watchmaker solutions are available as are some home brews (that are perhaps not that great)
            I seem to recall that the Long Island Indicator site said that after trying any number of solvents and things like ultrasonic cleaners that they keep coming back to some warmed solution of Simple Green for cleaning instruments and parts. Not sure if they still say that, it's been a while since I looked.

            Is there any collective opinion on using automatic transmission fluid as a light instrument oil? It seems to never gum up and from what I seem to recall, the original ATF's were formulated as a replacement for whale-oil based lubes that were getting difficult to source.

            I will second your comments about proper oiling of watches, I knew an old-timer (long retired when I knew him) that had done watch repair years before, and that was his take on things. He said that almost everyone uses too much. He once showed me a tiny bottle of some watch oil, smaller than a thimble, that he said he had used for some crazy number of years that was still maybe 1/4 full. It had this tiny thin wire on the cap that he said was used to pick up and deposit the oil. I forget what he said the bottle had cost back in the day but by the gallon worked out to some astronomical cost.

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            • #21
              I have used Starrett instrument oil for indicators for years, and have seen none of them gum up in any noticeable way.

              Along the lines of what Alanganes said, I use very little. a drop of oil as it comes from the spout would do many indicators. So maybe that is why.... just using enough to reduce the "galling friction", but never as much as you would actually see on the plunger.

              Inside bearings can be cleaned and oiled just like watch and clock bearings. The cases ae normally sealed up much better than almost any clock ever was, so dust etc does not get in as it might in a clock. More like a tight cased wristwatch.
              CNC machines only go through the motions

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              • #22
                Has anyone read the label?

                For:
                Pianos, furniture, woodwork
                Clocks
                Golf clubs
                Firearms
                Reels
                Skates
                Tools
                Musical, dental, and scientific instruments
                Locks
                Hinges
                Optical lenses
                etc.

                Boy, I wish we had a lubricant that's that good today. Puts me in mind of snake oil salesmen.

                Camera lenses are one place where the lubricant is absolutely crucial. You don't want it to evaporate and get on the lens surfaces nor do you want it to thicken up and gum up the delicate mechanisms. Even new oil can really gum up something like a shutter or an iris. One can only wonder what that sludge at the bottom of the bottle would do to a lens.

                It is probably best that bottle did not get used.



                Originally posted by Frank Ford View Post
                My 3-in-One oil seems to have separated a little:

                Paul A.
                SE Texas

                And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                You will find that it has discrete steps.

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                • #23
                  I truly believe that people that work in the oil and paint industry are laughing at us all. New paint technology at Home depot says one coat coverage. Same claim, different store 30 years ago.I saw some new motor oil, 5w 50,it stays thick in death valley and thin in Alaska. Yea right, Edwin Dirnbeck

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
                    ... Boy, I wish we had a lubricant that's that good today. Puts me in mind of snake oil salesmen.

                    Camera lenses are one place where the lubricant is absolutely crucial. ...
                    I always coat my camera lens with oil prior to taking pictures. Minimizing the friction of the photons as they pass through the lense ensures
                    maximum picture clarity.
                    Location: Long Island, N.Y.

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