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  • DRO glitch

    Ok so my Jenix DRO has been flawless for over a decade now - but now that the temps are cooler it seems to be having trouble firing up when turned on - the screen is all mixed up or nothing at all - I press the on off button a few times and it gets "more involved" till the point where it beeps its normal "on beep" and everything is fine,

    im sure this is not going to get better on it's own and will get worse as it seems to be doing,,,

    im tempted to tear into it to look the circuit board over for those little "halo" soldered connections at the power entry where heating and cooling cycles can be a factor, have had some pretty good luck with electronics and paying attention to detail. could be a Cap too I suppose???

    suggestions??? thanks

  • #2
    up-date, just turned it on for today - same thing - nothing, but instead of playing with the on-off button just let it sit in the on position - after about a half minute the display came on all scrambled - then about another half minute a "beep" and full display...

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    • #3
      What is the temperature fluctuation in your shop?? It sounds more like the processor getting tired or a cold solder is another possibility.
      Every now and then when I power up my Acu Rite DRP 200M on my BP, the quill scale Z will read 47.xxx It's a 6"scale where does it get 47" from??

      JL..............

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      • #4
        Could be a broken solder joint. When the board warms it makes contact again.
        I would open it up and have a close look.

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        • #5
          It could also be that there is dirt or condensation on the PC board that is allowing some leakage where it does not belong. If you open it up look for how clean things are. You might want to blow it out with some canned air that is safe for electronics. Your regular shop air can create static and kill the electronics.

          lg
          no neat sig line
          near Salem OR

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          • #6
            Could be a bad solder joint or electrolytic cap.

            Leave it on. I have seen more failures from stuff being turned on than stuff left on.

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            • #7
              I will have a look into it after im done with this most recent project - but I think that's good advice Macona - I will leave it on until then, they don't consume all kinds of power and I have left it on overnight many a time by accident...

              im thinking there's going to be one of those little "halo" fault connections around a resistor wire or something that deals with heating and cooling cycles - I have found tons of these in all different type of electronics,,, outputs on car stereo's are notorious for them.
              certain model honda fuel pump relays are another just to name a couple...

              thanks guys like to here im on the same track.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by macona View Post
                Could be a bad solder joint or electrolytic cap.

                Leave it on. I have seen more failures from stuff being turned on than stuff left on.
                I have had some first hand experience with that in 1953 on a big radar set (CPS6B if anyone ever knew of it) . We ran a fairly long test of not shutting
                down for maintenance and the failures were considerably less. It was usually right after turning the set back on after the normal maintenance that the
                failures occurred. So there is evidence for letting things powered up, BUT it seems to be a habit (at least for me) to turn things off when I leave them. :-)
                ...lew...

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                • #9
                  +2 on Lew and Mac's comments, unless it uses glowing valves and Nixie tubes it isn't costing much to leave it on, electrolytics have a habit of going low-value at low temperatures too (old TV repair trick, walk a hairdryer around the board to find the duff cap...), solder joints can crystallize or corrode and it's going to get worse with the "healthy" lead-free solders and their increased creep - there's a reason aviation, military, nuclear and medical are exempt from the lead-free regulations...

                  Dave H. (the other one)
                  Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men.

                  Holbrook Model C Number 13 lathe, Testa 2U universal mill, bikes and tools

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
                    - but now that the temps are cooler it seems to be having trouble firing up when turned on -

                    suggestions??? thanks
                    I am having the same problem A.K. but not with my DRO! What is the equivalent of Viagra for a DRO?
                    Location: The Black Forest in Germany

                    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Black Forest View Post
                      I am having the same problem A.K. but not with my DRO! What is the equivalent of Viagra for a DRO?

                      Testosterone - lots of it and often???

                      Keep it up or is that the object of the exercise?

                      Or just creeping "old age?" - senility??.

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                      • #12
                        Another vote for the electrolytic caps in the power supply.

                        Either the big ones for DC storage, or a small one in one of the oscillator circuits...

                        t
                        rusting in Seattle

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                        • #13
                          Yes I believe it's a Cap ---- I pulled it down today and there's one in the main power board that does not respond to an ohms reading when tested... power board soldered connections look stellar.

                          it's a 400v 22uF so guess im going to try and find one somewhere

                          suggestions are appreciated thanks

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                          • #14
                            uh oh maybe I need to learn how to test caps,, when I put the multi meter on volts that one cap is still holding 2.8 volts

                            suggestions are appreciated lol

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                            • #15
                              A.K.: A test meter that reads capacitance as well as the other things. Like duct tape, its a handyman's best friend. I've got an old Fluke 12B that I wouldn't be without, and I'm not an electrician.

                              Sarge

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