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replacing quill and spindle bearings

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  • replacing quill and spindle bearings

    I have a made in taiwan kneel mill from the 70's. Its branded as a mini maxmill, it is very similar to a g1004. The upper spindle bearing(s) are need of replacement. i have a g1004 parts breakdown and am somewhat stuck trying to disassemble the spindle. I was able to remove the upper locknut, the pully, and the locknut atop the upper bearing, and the quill stop.

    The first question, how do I remove the quill? I read somewhere that if I held on to it and pulled down on the handle it would disengage from the gear, but it does not come free.

    Second question how do I get the upper spindle assembly apart? Ive searched this site and others and cant seem to find a procedure. Thanks in advance, jim

  • #2
    It will only come out by pulling if the teeth go to the end of the quill. I'd bet you have to pull the downfeed handwheel and it's shaft, which has the pinion on it. That should unblock the quill, and you may need to be ready to catch it as it comes out.

    The handwheel removal may require you to "let down" the return spring (release the tension) so that it does not just release and spin when you pull out the handwheel shaft. No idea how to do that. My Clausing Atlas 1800 has a spring enclosure that can be allowed to turn (carefully under control) in order to let down the spring. Most drillpresses from Asia have a little metal enclosure that seems to have no such provision, and a lot of Mill-drills are based on drillpresses.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

    Comment


    • #3
      THank you for the reply. My next attempt was to try and unwind the spring, it has a cover and one screw, i was thinking its just going to unwind on me and then ill need to figure out how to rewind. If i am succesful getting the quill out, what do I do with the upper spindle. Do I need to take the entire head off and press out?

      Comment


      • #4
        The splined upper part probably depends on exact model as to how it comes out.

        If you have not already got the quill out, I remembered that some have a screw that prevents removal, For those, removing the screw may allow the quill to come out, and then the handwheel can be used to let down the spring (or wind up before reinstalling the quill).
        1601

        Keep eye on ball.
        Hashim Khan

        Comment


        • #5
          Does it have a clock type spring?
          If so, the cover has notched index points.
          Loosen but not remover the center bolt, pull the cover out, hold firmly and index it counter-clockwise.
          When it relaxes completely then remove the retaining bolt.
          Len

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          • #6
            Originally posted by QSIMDO View Post
            Does it have a clock type spring?
            If so, the cover has notched index points.
            Loosen but not remover the center bolt, pull the cover out, hold firmly and index it counter-clockwise.
            When it relaxes completely then remove the retaining bolt.
            The "hold firmly" should include ensuring that you can actually tighten the spring against the free play in the notch. You want to ensure that you can do that before pulling to the side slightly to disengage the locking notches. With the spring under control you can ease off the pressure. Use the notches as needed to get a new grip as you work it to remove the pressure.

            If you can't turn the spring and drum against the free play they it will spin in your hand when you do get it loose and that's going to rip your hand up.

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            • #7
              Thank you all for the tips. I was able to get the quill out. I put it in the full up position and then had to unwind the spring. Was not too bad, pulled out the pinion shaft and was able to remove. Was also able to work the upper spindle out. The two bearings in the upper spindle were dry, they are rough and noisy. The quill is actually pretty good. There is an oiler that has kept them moist plus I routinely squirt oil down the spline. The grease is like clay, i will pull that apart, clean and regrease those, but i believe all my problem is the upper bearings. I will search around for those. They are marked with 6209z and made in sweeden.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by BCRider View Post
                If you can't turn the spring and drum against the free play they it will spin in your hand when you do get it loose and that's going to rip your hand up.
                Wow!
                What size machine are YOU working on?!

                Anyway, looking at the parts list for the Grizzly machine rusty posted I was mildly impressed that it used angular contact bearings in the spindle
                instead of ubiquitous tapered rollers...
                Grizzly now has a 8 x 30 with the same setup.
                just sayin'
                Len

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by QSIMDO View Post
                  Wow!
                  What size machine are YOU working on?!
                  ......
                  The housings are commonly a small chromed stamping with little to grab, and the tail of the spring formed into a hook and hanging out a slot on the side. If you let the slippery thing spin, it is likely to gouge you before you can get your hand away. The tail of the spring is sharp.

                  The 18" CLausing (MT3 spindle) has a 4"+ diameter housing with smooth indents for holding the spring, and a separate lock pin to secure it. Nothing to tear you up.
                  1601

                  Keep eye on ball.
                  Hashim Khan

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
                    The housings are commonly a small chromed stamping with little to grab, and the tail of the spring formed into a hook and hanging out a slot on the side. If you let the slippery thing spin, it is likely to gouge you before you can get your hand away. The tail of the spring is sharp.

                    The 18" CLausing (MT3 spindle) has a 4"+ diameter housing with smooth indents for holding the spring, and a separate lock pin to secure it. Nothing to tear you up.
                    Really?
                    It was sarcasm, J.
                    Len

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If you say so.....

                      All the politically correct emoticons on this site look exactly the same......
                      1601

                      Keep eye on ball.
                      Hashim Khan

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        the machine was made in 1975, from Taiwan. It is "similar" to designs copied by the current Chinese machines, but that is the issue. It uses 6 bearings between the spindle and quill, no tapered rollers, very much similar to a BP. The grizzly machine breakdown is similar but different. the machine is actually very accurate and does not suffer from many of the issues I hear from the other makes. That being said, I am still not completely sure how to completely disassemble the complete spindle/quill assembly. It has locknut at the top, where the spline is and the first set of bearings. I am assuming I break that loose and press the entire spindle down. at the very end of the quill, at the work end of the spindle, there is an end cap, I think, as there is a line where that and the quill comes together, but there are no bolts. I don't know if it is threaded to the quill casing . I am sure it covers the lower bearing. I am afraid if I try and press the spindle out it may cause an issue.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by QSIMDO View Post
                          Wow!
                          What size machine are YOU working on?! .....
                          It would be heaven for me if I were able to work with machines where those springs are mounted in a housing with a hand wheel. It would imply that I had the big stuff to play with.

                          But the reality is just the slippery chromed housings and spring sticking out as JTiers said. When supplied initially I often find they are done up tighter than a fashion model's corset. THAT is the time some extra care is needed. When the handle ends are like to cause a concussion if they hit us upside the head when let go it's time to take hold o'that little chrome piece as if it were a set bear trap ready to bite....

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