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Chinese 5C Collet Chuck Problems.

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  • Chinese 5C Collet Chuck Problems.

    I just purchased a D1-6, 5C collet chuck for my 1660 lathe.
    I read some pretty good reviews about the chinese collet chucks, so I figured I would give one a try.

    Well, for starters, I could not screw the mounting studs in the back far enough to properly mount in the lathe because the holes were not tapped deep enough. I needed 1 turn or less on most studs. So I ground a little off the studs to shorten them and get them in properly.

    Next, I mounted the chuck and checked runout. It is to the tune of .0045" on the 5C taper. Way too much. I then checked my spindle with my tenths indicator and I could barely make out the needle moving when on the taper. The flat machines surfaces of the spindle were less than a tenth. All good there as I figured.

    Then I cleaned both the spindle and the collet chuck really good again and remounted it. Same. 0.0045" Runout. Not acceptable.

    So, there are 3 hex screws on the front. I was wondering if I loosened these if I could adjust the runout out of it. I pounded with a soft hammer, but it did not budge. On closer inspection, it looks like the 2 chuck halves were pinned together.

    Uggg, it was purchased on E-bay and I guess it will be going back unless I can figure out a way to adjust the runout out of it.

    Look at the crappy machining on the taper:

  • #2
    Last edited by polaraligned; 12-13-2016, 10:59 PM.


    • #3
      I have one of those for a D1-4 spindle that I use a lot. These are the best kind of 5C chuck after a lever collet closer. It has almost no runout, maybe a tenth or less. BUT it didn't come that way.
      What I did was to try it in all 3 different positions of the mounting lugs to see if one was better than the others. One was about .001 better. The D1-6 may have 6 mounting lugs, I've seen some with 3 and some with 6.

      So I made punch marks on the chuck and spindle to mount it the same every time. Then set the compound to cut the 5C collet taper and used a carbide insert boring bar to cut the taper until it cleaned up and just a thou more. Now it is almost zero runout every time I put it on. You have to watch the indicator needle closely to see a tiny movement. My mounting taper was nicely ground. Yours looks like it was roughed in over size and didn't clean up with the grinder. I would try to get that part smoothed out or send it back and get another one.


      • #4
        Thanks for the response Toolguy. I fiddled a bit with it this morning. Tried numerous positions and tightening sequences. I got really lucky once and had .0006" runout, but it was not repeatable. The best I was able to get, beyond that one lucky time, was .003" runout.

        When I hold the chuck up tight to the spindle without tightening the cams, I can move it sideways and up and down a bit. Obviously the taper in the back of this chuck is not fitting tight to my spindle taper. My Bison chucks show zero play in the same situation. The point of the taper is to get the chuck in perfect alignment with the spindle every time.

        The high spot is always in the same location on the 5C taper. I guess I could remachine this taper and get it pretty close, but with the cams setting the chuck alignment instead of the taper, I don't think this is a good idea. Maybe I will just return it. I don't want to pay return shipping, and shouldn't as the taper on the rear is not properly machined. Hopefully E-bay has me covered.


        • #5
          A lot of the sellers are genuinely committed to keeping the customers happy. Have you sent those pictures and explained the problem to the seller? Given the fairly obvious flaw they may not even want the old one back.


          • #6
            Try bluing up the corners. There may be a radius that is too big or a chamfer that is too small preventing the taper from fully seating.


            • #7
              Originally posted by George Bulliss View Post
              Try bluing up the corners. There may be a radius that is too big or a chamfer that is too small preventing the taper from fully seating.
              The taper on the collet chuck is too large. When fully seated against the spindle, I can move the collet chuck laterally .0015", so it is not even seating on the taper.


              • #8
                Your mounting taper is crap. Send it back and get one that is done right. A good one is worth the hassle.


                • #9
                  I bought ER-32 collet set from Little Machine Shop (for my mills and lathe) some whileago and they have been faultless.

                  Mounting is by flat flange (spindle) and recess for collet plate:



                  • #10
                    I bought a flat-flange connected ER-32 collet set from Little Mmachine Shop some while ago and I have not had a problem with it at all.

                    I did increase the location bore to enlarge the plate-to-plate connection so that I could (sort of) "tap true" the plate to the flange - works very well.


                    /Continued next page.


                    • #11


                      • #12
                        Polar: How much did that cost?


                        • #13
                          That looks nice oldtiffie. I need this because I need to go to 1" diameter for some stainless work I have coming up.


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by tomato coupe View Post
                            Polar: How much did that cost?
                            Right here:



                            • #15
                              Originally posted by polaraligned View Post
                              For $400 I would expect it to fit the lathe properly and to run true. Contact the seller and politely complain.
                              Location: Long Island, N.Y.