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Wave soldering pump

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  • Wave soldering pump

    What kind of pump is used for wave soldering machine. I need to build a small one not for soldering but removing through hole components. I'm guessing that it needs to be low pressure and low volume. Will I be able to modify a water pump made of brass or aluminium to do the job? Thanks.



  • #2
    What you need is called a solder fountain system.

    See one here:

    http://www.apsgold.com/gw10.html
    Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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    • #3
      That's exactly what I need to build. Mounting the laser at the top is an excellent idea. They don't list the price but it looks expensive. Is it worth building one?

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      • #4
        Never tried building one. I would expect the pump would be a small low speed stainless steel positive displacement gear pump. You also need a reservoir for the solder. I expect it all should be from SS and you will need an accurate thermostatic control system. Also, for best results all boards should be preheated to around 175F for at least one hour before component removal.

        Brass certainly won't work for a pump as the solder will erode it. Aluminum might be ok but will radiate heat far more than steel which might present a problem.

        [This message has been edited by Evan (edited 07-27-2004).]
        Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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        • #5
          Evan is right about stainless. I built a solder pump with a very simple impeller, built like a sump pump. The motor was a 1/10 hp. DC running around 100 rpm. Motor, coupling and shaft bearings were mounted about 10 inches above the surface of the solder on a length of ss bar stock and the pump body and impeller attached to the other end of the bar were submerged in the solder. The impeller was about 3/4" dia. by about 3/4 overall and had 6 blades. A nozzle, attached to the pump body protruded above the surface of the solder.
          The pump body was nothing more than a 2" length of ss 2" bar with about a 1" dia. cavity bored in one end and a smaller through hole bored to generously clear the impeller shaft. The output channel was about 3/8" bored through the bar beside the pump bore. The pump cavity was then milled at a tangent to connect to the output channel. a cover plate with a hole in the center was then bolted onto the bottom end of the pump body. None of the dimensions were very fussy as the solder is heavy and easily propelled. Indeed, start at low speed and ramp up when first starting to experiment as a huge geyser of solder is a fearful thing. Build with ease of dissassembly in mind as dross will accumulate on all surfaces, inside and out. No promises, but I will see if I have any pictures or drawings left of the pump I built.

          Wes
          Weston Bye - Author, The Mechatronist column, Digital Machinist magazine
          ~Practitioner of the Electromechanical Arts~

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          • #6
            Cast iron works well, and has the advantage that it will work with the newer "no-lead" solder that is required by 7/1/06 (in the EU, but effectively everywhere else too).

            Stainless is eroded by the no-lead solders. Cast iron has been tested, and works well without catastrophic erosion problems.
            1601

            Keep eye on ball.
            Hashim Khan

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