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Boring & Truing Hole In Grinding Wheel ?????

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  • #16
    Leave the wheel alone and follow these instructions that I copied directly from the Norton Superabrasives Catalog.

    Diamond and CBN Wheel mounting, truing and dressing guide
    To achieve the best results using Norton diamond and CBN products, the following steps for mounting, truing and dressing should be practiced:
    mounting – putting Wheel on machine Spindle

    • Examine wheel flanges and spindle carefully.
    • Be sure flanges’ surfaces are clean and free of damage.
    • Ensure that the mounting flanges are flat and of equal diameter, especially on wheels with rigid centers, such as vitrified bond wheels.
    • Paper or plastic blotters should only be used when mounting superabrasive wheels with vitrified cores. Using paper or plastic blotters on any other core material may result in the wheel loosening during grinding.
    • Inspect machine spindle for excessive runout.
    – TIR (Total Indicated Runout) should be no greater than 0.0002".
    • Mount wheel between hand-tightened flanges.
    • Using a dial indicator, tap the wheel lightly with a rubber or wooden block to minimize runout to less than .0010".
    • Tighten flange securely and recheck with indicator.
    • Allow a newly mounted wheel to operate for one full minute before grinding.
    • The use of one permanent mounting for the life of the wheel is recommended whenever possible:
    – If the grinding machine has a tapered spindle, mount each straight, flaring cup or dish wheel on a separate collet or adapter.
    – When changing wheels the entire unit is removed, keeping the wheel in running truth.
    – When needed again, the entire unit can be placed directly on
    the spindle or arbor, thereby eliminating the time and abrasive lost in retruing.

    Every diamond or CBN wheel I've ever mounted had an oversized bore that allowed for this centering process. Aluminum oxide wheels can have a snug fitting bushing because they are much easier to dress true after mounting.

    Here's the link to the catalog:
    Last edited by john hobdeclipe; 12-31-2016, 08:58 PM.


    • #17
      I've found that Norton has a lot of hidden documentation if you want to search for it. Thank You, didn't see this one.

      I ended up boring the hole on the mill since that was the easiest set up. I clamped the wheel down through the hole first and swept the OD with a dial to get it centered. I indicated the OD as close to the abrasive as I could get. There were a few irregularities on the OD like it wasn't perfectly round, maybe it was the paint..... don't know. But I got it centered to within .0005. Clamped it down with the hold downs "gently" and bored the hole to 1.375. Then I made the PVC bushing. I allowed .002 push fit and opened up the bushing ID an extra .002 to allow for the "squeeze factor" and then tried it on the spindle. I ended up with a perfect fit and indicated it to about .002 run out. That's a hole lot better than what it originally was and it repeats when removed from the spindle and replaced, that's another important thing.

      Ideally it would be nice to have every wheel mounted on a hub but for most of us it's just not reality. Those hubs aren't cheap and on my KO grinder it's a PIA to hold the spindle from behind and loosen the thing up and pop it off, and you also risk damaging the taper in doing so.