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  • Chris Evans
    replied
    Plus one for the DCGT tips or even other shapes of "GT" tip. They do give a good finish using light cuts on steels that usually tear.

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  • danlb
    replied
    I hate having to run to the hardware store for 1 or two studs, screws or bolts.

    I have lengths of "allthread" in the common sizes from #6 up to 1/2 inch and I buy the matching nuts in bulk. These make quick studs and, with the addition of a welder or brazing torch they become bolts or screws. It's quicker to make a bolt this way than it is to run down to Lowes. It's quicker than single pointing or turning down drill rod and using a die. It's also cheaper, since I never buy a $100 power tool on impulse as I walk through my own garage.

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  • MattiJ
    replied
    Originally posted by Robg View Post
    I originally started with mainly 1018 as I was worried about machinability but with an 11x36 lathe I have worked with higher quality steels and found that they machine well on this lathe. I really dislike the finish on 1018.
    Try someday the sharp DCGT carbide inserts meant for aluminium with the 1018. You wont get shiny mirror-like finish like you get with carbide on a 4130 but definitely no tearing or rough surface. With very fine feed the surface is more like after grinder.

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  • Black Forest
    replied
    I have reached the point where I have lots and lots of small pieces of this and that that I know I might need in the future for this or that so I don't throw it in the metal scrap barrel to get hauled away. Then I need a piece of this or that and know I have just the piece of this or that so I spend a long time going through my stock pile looking for just the right piece. Lately I have started throwing out most of the small pieces as I figure it is a lot quicker to cut off what I need than to look for that piece I know I have! My hand has a hard time to let go of the small piece that I am throwing away. Sort of a hesitation like when you hand over money to someone and keep a grip on the money for just a second longer than necessary.

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  • Robg
    replied
    I envy those that are able to dive the company scrap bin for "reduced" prices. I, like a good many of us I suspect, don't have that possibility. I have done some shopping around to various metal suppliers and have found some to be friendlier than others in the pocketbook area. One sells cutoffs by the pound (kilo) but it always shocks me at the "scrap" price in the end. I found a welding/fab shop that carries a huge stock of metal and I go there because most stuff I raid from their cutoff area usually runs $5 to $10 in cash which turns out to be a real bargain for me.
    I try to keep extra stock around so I can move forward with most projects without too much inconvenience. I originally started with mainly 1018 as I was worried about machinability but with an 11x36 lathe I have worked with higher quality steels and found that they machine well on this lathe. I really dislike the finish on 1018. I had trouble in my immediate area finding 12L14 but was able to in a city 1 1/2 hours from me where I go anyway from time to time - I really like that stuff.
    I also keep some aluminum along with the steel in round, square, & flat.

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  • wdtom44
    replied
    I retired from being a maintenance mechanic for the last 17 years and during that time I collected a lot of worn out shafts,cutoffs from an inch up in all different sizes. and a lot of other misc. "scrap". Sometimes when I need a piece of something I don'e even need to cut it, I just chuck it up and go. The off side of this is that I have a lot of stuff that takes up space. But I guess this isn't too bad of a problem to have.

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  • loose nut
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Evans View Post
    Being the other side of the pond here in the UK this has made me feel the need to look up the numbers for steel types used in the USA. I am still referring to the wartime EN numbers and some European "Din" number grades. What I do though is always buy more than I need to build up my stock.
    I feel your pain.

    I have had a need to understand British numbers because I read old Model Engineer magazine so I want to understand what kind of metal it is referring to. So far I have found out that there are pre-WW2 system, the EN system, the post EN system and a new system based on the European system. And to make thing even more interesting the most recent system reuses numbers from obsolete metal for newer metals so depending on what year the article is from the number could be different types of metal. Just to make things better many other countries use completely different systems of there own. It's a wonder that anyone can get anything done, anywhere.

    I'll stick to the ASME system. It may not be metric or part of ANY international system but it is simple, straight forward and it works.

    Leave a comment:


  • dian
    replied
    among other stuff i like to keep an inventory of scrap pieces of ecn35 i get from a local guy (not for free). they come premachined in several diameters and sometimes predrilled. the beauty about ecn35 that after a brutal quench it has spring temper. no other messing around needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • AD5MB
    replied
    electronic technician, ergo packrat. motorhome jammed full of salvaged material. vast aluminum plates, big chunks of 7076 AL, when the boss said "take it to the dump" I took it to the dump I live in.

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  • enginuity
    replied
    If you can, try to find a local shop that does CNC turning with automatic bar feeders.

    They often will have 4-12" remnants of bar in all sizes and materials. Many times they will have free cutting steels, like 1215, which is a joy to use in the shop. Make friends with them, show up with a case of beer if needed or coffee and donuts, and buy the stuff for scrap, or close to scrap price.

    While it's not for everything, and is basically impossible to harden (you can actually case harden it but the process is very difficult), free cutting steels are good for many things, and helps you make chips faster. A lot faster.

    The strength of the stuff is pretty good too as it is cold drawn. Most of the free cutting stuff has a yield strength around 400 MPa (60 ksi).

    Obviously questionable for wearing surface. But I made a few tools out of it for someone once and I was surprised how long they lasted even in a high wear situation.

    Leave a comment:


  • vpt
    replied
    I don't stock much material but what I do stock is a mix of everything. The reason is because most things I personally make in the mill or lathe or what have you is eventually welded to some other part. So for me depending what that part is made of makes my decision on what I will be machining.

    Leave a comment:


  • Euph0ny
    replied
    Here's Dan Gelbart talking about materials to keep on hand for prototyping and shop work:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjFwcsSU0oc

    Leave a comment:


  • Black Forest
    replied
    I get most of my round steel stock from my hydraulic repair shop. He is a friend of mine and he keeps me in every diameter of round stock up to 180mm diameter. I just have to be careful because some of it is hardened 3 to 5mm deep and I need to take a deep enough first cut on the lathe to get most of it in the first pass.

    All of my other needs I order and like others here I always order way more than I need at the time.

    A few years ago I sold a big bandsaw to a company that builds machines. The bandsaw weighed over a ton. One of the terms of sale was I get dumpster rights for life! Their dumpsters are like going to Disneyland for me. I pretty much only have to buy structural steel or aluminum.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattiJ
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Evans View Post
    Being the other side of the pond here in the UK this has made me feel the need to look up the numbers for steel types used in the USA. I am still referring to the wartime EN numbers and some European "Din" number grades. What I do though is always buy more than I need to build up my stock.
    Its a real mess also here. EN numbers, american standards, more local Finnish standards and manufacturer specific versions.
    TIG wires are usually sold with american system, but if you want to order TIG wire from Germany it's more likely some EN-number..

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Evans
    replied
    Being the other side of the pond here in the UK this has made me feel the need to look up the numbers for steel types used in the USA. I am still referring to the wartime EN numbers and some European "Din" number grades. What I do though is always buy more than I need to build up my stock.

    Leave a comment:

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