No announcement yet.

riviting parts and rust prevntion

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
    If this is a model, why not make it with aluminum instead of steel? Will it see some kind of rough use?
    It will just be a display model, no rough use. Steel is what was used on the original so I am making the model out of steel and aluminum even painted looks like aluminum.

    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    I assume you will cold-set them, as hot setting would destroy any paint coating.

    Yes the rivets are cold formed, squeezed actually (they don't get painted until the end) and after final assembly everything except those parts that have to be bare metal like the breech will be painted.

    Originally posted by JoeCB View Post
    Best idea yet, Paul... but one better, use brass sheet and brass rivets
    Joe B
    Have you priced brass sheet and bar stock lately, Caaachinggggggggg and then some.

    I only need to coat these areas to help stop rust in the joints before the parts are assembled because paint will not get into the joint area after the parts are riveted together.

    Red Rustoleum or solder will do blue is to complicated for this and is actually a type of rust (the pretty kind) anyway.

    Thanks for the replies.
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at

    Southwestern Ontario. Canada


    • #17
      Can you get the parts primed professionally? I don't know what they use at professional body shops, but a 12-pack would probably get a small model primed when they're doing some other job.


      • #18
        Depending on how big it'll be and assuming you are going to brush paint it what about thinning down some of the paint to put over the riveted joints and simply flex the model slightly to encourage the well thinned paint to wick into the joints? The paint itself would then be your sealant. And to some extent a bonding agent. After these joint seal applications dry carry on with painting the rest of the model in the originally intended manner. If the very thin paint left anything you don't like just lightly sand it off. It won't be very thick. And I've found that solvent thinned paints tend to love to wick into the tiniest of cracks and onto my fingers. So perhaps it's time to make that trait into a positive thing?
        Chilliwack BC, Canada


        • #19
          Originally posted by Lee Cordochorea View Post
          Step one: make it rust evenly on purpose. Step two: use a phosphoric acid rust converter to make a tenaciously ahereing iron phosphate coating. Step three: primer. Step four: paint.
          This is something I do with a lot of things. Works nice on cycle headers, went from repainting them every year to a light touch up of stone chips every fall when I put the bikes away for the winter.
          Never tried it with with riveted assemblies though.


          • #20
            How about doing the assembly and wicking some thinned down Shellac into the joints which can be painted over after the alcohol evaporates?
            I just need one more tool,just one!


            • #21
              Originally posted by loose nut View Post
              Since it is made from steel and while not exposed to the elements it may still rust, even when painted.
              Does not compute. Any paint job should do.
              Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe


              • #22

                I bought some of each of the three winners, out of 46 treatments three worked to prevent rust after even 288 days exposed. But I'm wondering what would happen if one or all of the three would accept paint over it and continue to provide rust prevention?
                I live on the Oregon coast, heck, all of Oregon is rusty, especially politicians brains. Rust prevention is a big deal for me in my business.