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Help with P&W 10" engine lathe

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  • foxmxrcer
    replied
    Originally posted by RB211 View Post
    Your lathe looks very stout for 10” swing, you’ll enjoy it when it’s up and running. Looks like a South Bend 9c on Jose Conseco’s steroids.
    I enjoy it every time a chip flies! If I'm not mistaken, according to a brochure for a sightly newer (same basic design) version of my lathe, it's in the 1400lb range. Which doesn't include the motor, drive spindle, or mount.

    Originally posted by flylo View Post
    Very HD! Is this your's with a threading dial in Feb http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=190773
    It is, I posted over there recently by recommendation by a member here. If you scroll back to the posts on here in the late 30s-early 40s, I go a bit more in depth on the chasing dial, and I think there's a few more pictures as well.

    Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

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  • flylo
    replied
    Very HD! Is this your's with a threading dial in Feb http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=190773

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  • RB211
    replied
    Your lathe looks very stout for 10” swing, you’ll enjoy it when it’s up and running. Looks like a South Bend 9c on Jose Conseco’s steroids.

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  • foxmxrcer
    replied
    Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post
    I'll take the Van Norman crap off your hands.
    [emoji23] PM me an offer if you actually have a use for them. You can pretty well see what they look like in the pics above, but if you want more I can send them.

    Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

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  • reggie_obe
    replied
    Originally posted by foxmxrcer View Post
    I got my collets today! Good news, they are in fact 5p. Not so good (but not bad) news, the lot with the arbors, only one of the centers (the bottom one in the picture) is 5p, the rest are 5v (Van Norman #5). They are a bit longer and fatter, and the thread pitch is wrong. A quick eBay search tells me they aren't very easy to come by either.

    Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk
    I'll take the Van Norman crap off your hands.

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  • foxmxrcer
    replied
    I got my collets today! Good news, they are in fact 5p. Not so good (but not bad) news, the lot with the arbors, only one of the centers (the bottom one in the picture) is 5p, the rest are 5v (Van Norman #5). They are a bit longer and fatter, and the thread pitch is wrong. A quick eBay search tells me they aren't very easy to come by either.

    Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

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  • BCRider
    replied
    Someone previously sure did mess up those jaws. At least part of it looks more like the piece jumped ship during turning and snapped a piece out of the end of the jaw.

    The jaws SHOULD be pretty hard. Unlikely you're going to be able to turn them back to true. Most such work seems to be more about using a spider to hold the jaws so they can be ground back to true. But on a four jaw it's not the end of the world if the jaws are not all identical. So perhaps pulling the jaws out and working then back into shape could be an option. But it's one that needs to be done with great care. You still want the insides to end up square to the guide slots in the jaws and the noses to all be the same length. And to me that pretty well sings out "surface grinder" which you don't have. Or some sort of clever jig to allow you to do much the same job with a home made jig and bench grinder.

    "Hard turning" would be another option with the suitable carbide tooling. But it's rough on the machine at the same time. I'm not sure the old rise and fall cross slide would like the beating that this would entail. Most "hard machining" I've seen being done is with solid carbide end mills on the big milling machines.... which you don't have... yet.....

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  • Richard P Wilson
    replied
    I think you said that the taper end to the spindle isn't removable, and is part of the spindle. Looking closely at the photos, your spindle end is different to most, which have a slightly raised register, about 3/8" long after the thread, and then a shoulder for the chuck back plate to screw up against. The purpose of the register (the backplate should be bored to be a close fit on it) is to keep the chuck concentric each time it is screweed on and off, and the shoulder is to keep the chuck aligned. Now your spindle doesn't have these features, but it does have that taper cone, which I believe was P&W's method of doing the same job. You will need to machine a matching conical bore in the backplate, so that when the chuck is screwed on, the backplate seats on that cone. If done properly, that should ensure concentricty and alignment.
    In answer to something you said in an early posting, no, you can't (or shouldn't) simply swap chucks over on the same backplate. Each chuck will have a recess in the back, for the backplate to seat into, as a really good light push fit. Its highly unlikely that a 4 jaw and 3 jaw will have the same size recess. Once a chuck has been properly fitted to its backplate, it doesn't routinely, get takien off again except occasionaly when the chuck is dismantled for cleaning purposes.

    Apologies if you knew all this already

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  • Robin R
    replied
    This is only of passing interest, but here is the IXL page on the UK lathes site. http://www.lathes.co.uk/ixl/

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  • foxmxrcer
    replied





    "When ordering parts for this chuck mention 8 inch IXL 199"

    Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

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  • foxmxrcer
    replied
    Originally posted by alanganes View Post
    You may be surprised at how quickly your "league" will rise to the point where you'll find uses for stuff like that. And thanks for the additional update, you did a nice job on solving the worn out threads on your cross slide. Nothing "un-pretty" about that, it's a perfectly workable approach that obviously solved the issue you were having.

    And thanks for sharing your work here, I really enjoy seeing the projects that people do. I find it inspiring and interesting to see all of the different approaches we take to solve problems. So many ways to skin all of those proverbial cats.

    Nice job!
    Thank you, I'll try to keep updating as I go. I just ordered a cheap cash register style drawer to replace the counter top tool shelf I made. Going to make and attach a collet rack on the rear of it as well.


    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    I dunno.... I think the mismatched screws needs further attention.... But at least he used slot head screws to keep it period correct....

    I gotta agree that it's great to see an old machine of this sort brought back to a useful life. It would be a lot of fun to work with a machine like that to get a taste of what it was like back when this style of machine was state of the art.
    Those are the only screws I had that were small enough for the job at 2am haha. I was more angry that I didn't have a matching pair (I spent about a half hour searching). And as I was screwing them in, I DID think to myself "huh, I guess the flat heads will at least match the lathe...". And, (except for you internet people), I'm the only one that knows what it looks like, as it's hidden under the cross slide!

    Originally the plan was to turn off the flange of the t nut and just rely on the press for/thread lock, but I wound up leaving it for added security.

    Now I need to get around to making the backing plate for my 6" 3 jaw. The 4 jaw on it now works fine, but the previous owner clearly crashed into it, drilled it, or did something to it because some of the Jaws are nicked pretty bad and makes holding shallow it small diameter pieces difficult/impossible. How hard are chuck Jaws? Would I be able to close them all the way, and face them level again? I'll try to find a picture of the damage.

    Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

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  • BCRider
    replied
    Originally posted by alanganes View Post
    You may be surprised at how quickly your "league" will rise to the point where you'll find uses for stuff like that. And thanks for the additional update, you did a nice job on solving the worn out threads on your cross slide. Nothing "un-pretty" about that, it's a perfectly workable approach that obviously solved the issue you were having.

    And thanks for sharing your work here, I really enjoy seeing the projects that people do. I find it inspiring and interesting to see all of the different approaches we take to solve problems. So many ways to skin all of those proverbial cats.

    Nice job!
    I dunno.... I think the mismatched screws needs further attention.... But at least he used slot head screws to keep it period correct....

    I gotta agree that it's great to see an old machine of this sort brought back to a useful life. It would be a lot of fun to work with a machine like that to get a taste of what it was like back when this style of machine was state of the art.

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  • alanganes
    replied
    Originally posted by foxmxrcer View Post
    Yea,I figured a few items may be adaptable. They're just out of my league to fully understand the possibilities at this time. I'm in no rush to sell them, but if someone was actually in need of them, I would entertain offers.
    You may be surprised at how quickly your "league" will rise to the point where you'll find uses for stuff like that. And thanks for the additional update, you did a nice job on solving the worn out threads on your cross slide. Nothing "un-pretty" about that, it's a perfectly workable approach that obviously solved the issue you were having.

    And thanks for sharing your work here, I really enjoy seeing the projects that people do. I find it inspiring and interesting to see all of the different approaches we take to solve problems. So many ways to skin all of those proverbial cats.

    Nice job!

    Leave a comment:


  • BCRider
    replied
    I sure wouldn't be in any hurry to sell the stuff either. If you do much machining you're going to end up with SOME sort of mill in due time. And the other tooling will come into its own at that time. Note that you don't need it to be a Bridgeport. The indexing head would work with any mill. It's a stand alone solution in that respect. Heck, it could even be used on a drill press for evenly spaced holes around a part you rotate with the indexing head if the table was large enough to hold it all. Or similarly you could remove the rising T from the carriage and set the whole shebang on the lathe with a suitable adapter for some sort of operations.

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  • wdtom44
    replied
    Unfortunately I've come to the conclusion that none of the fixtures are for my lathe. Likely most are for the m head Bridgeport that the guy had for sale also. So, they sit in a box in my garage until I can 100% confirm what they are so I can sell them to someone that can use them.

    Well this sounds like you need to start looking for a Bridgeport, not selling the tooling. And as has been said it is likely that most of it can be used on a lot of different machines. And I too thought you had at least one index head and tailstock. And I agree ,you got a heck of a deal, you should be smiling.
    Last edited by wdtom44; 04-11-2018, 10:51 AM.

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