Band Saw rescue

[Lowery Racing]

So I picked up / rescued a DoAll 2013V band saw from a scrap yard. She needs a little TLC but I think she can be saved.

I've gave her a quick once over & found/plan to address the following;
* needs a paint job
* missing one of the drive belts
* counter balance for guide arm is missing (assuming it originally had one) & rigged w/spring
* drive motor appears to be relatively new, need to check wiring (240/480v?) before connecting power
* tires appear to be in decent shape
* idler wheel bearings appear to be tight, will clean & pack if I can remove the seals
* drive wheel bearings appear to be tight, will clean & pack if I can remove the seals
* add-on plexi/alum blade guard will go away
* current blade is 1" wide, still need to take a close look at the guides, will R&R as needed and setup for various blade widths
* gearbox rotates & shifts high to low freely, will drain drain & flush
* air blast/chip blower is missing (assuming it originally had one)
* table is rusted but not to bad IMO, undecided on procedure to clean it up

I'm sure there will be a few other things once I dig into it ..

Do any of you have experience with these saws? anything I'm overlooking or should look for?

Any ideas on cleaning up the table? other than abrasive pads & such? I've heard some about naval jelly? but have never tried it..

Thanks in advance for any feedback

[Lew Hartswick]

Pictures or it "didn't happen". :-)
...lew...

[alanganes]

From the look of your list, I think you have things covered pretty well. That's a pretty serious saw. Motors are easy to replace, and if the gear box and other difficult/expensive to replace parts are there and working, it sounds like a winning project. I would focus on clean up, and then the steps that will make the machine functional enough to use. Things like chip blowers and such can come as time allows and you can use the saw to help make any parts you need.

For large flat surfaces like your table, a bit of light oil and scotchbrite pads are the way I typically approach things if the rust is not too severe. Simple elbow grease works wonders much of the time. If it is pitted there is nothing you can do about it anyhow and it will not really matter all that much. You just want to end up with a reasonably flat smooth surface for your work piece to slide over.

I don't have the space for a large bandsaw like that, so instead picked up an old Delta/Milwaukee 14" that I outfitted with a variable speed drive so I can slow the blade enough to cut metal as with it. It is one of the most frequently used machines I have. Really handy to have available.

And see the post #2. You'd better get some photos posted before things get ugly.

[plastikosmd]

I just got mine up and running. I can't remember if I posted here but it is on the pm site. There are a couple great complete rebuild threads there if u search. I removed my variable drive and listed the parts for sale. I had a vfd from a tag sale that needed a task so I put it on the saw. Frankly a bit of overkill for me as I use it between 20-60hz but fun nevertheless

[Mcgyver]

know its not the same saw, but if you want some motivation....this guy went nuts on a Doall V36...I mean jeweled finish on the blade welder! lol

27 pages

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34928

[Lowery Racing]

Pictures or it "didn't happen". :-)
...lew...

And see the post #2. You'd better get some photos posted before things get ugly.

I did post pics in post #1, can you guys not see them? I can see them, what did I do wrong? Is it because my album is set to private?

[alanganes]

I did post pics in post #1, can you guys not see them? I can see them, what did I do wrong? Is it because my album is set to private?

Must be something, there are no pictures I can see nor any link to them.

[Stepside]

For light rust on the table of the saw. I used Scotchbright pads cut to fit my vibratory sander. Put on a sheet of coarse sandpaper. The sandpaper holds the abrasive pad in place. After removing the rust wax the table with paste wax. Use the White abrasive pads with the sander to polish the wax.

[Lowery Racing]

Must be something, there are no pictures I can see nor any link to them.

I just changed the setting to public on my album let me know if they showed up in post #1 & again here in this post?

[polaraligned]

Is it because my album is set to private?

I can see them now. Yeah, having pics set to private won't work....

I did a 24" Grob that was worse than that. Should be a pretty easy restore.

[Lowery Racing]

know its not the same saw, but if you want some motivation....this guy went nuts on a Doall V36...I mean jeweled finish on the blade welder! lol

27 pages

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=34928

Very impressive resto' Not sure I'll take it to that level, I'll be happy to end up with a clean solid running saw.

[Lowery Racing]

I can see them now. Yeah, having pics set to private won't work....

I did a 24" Grob that was worse than that. Should be a pretty easy restore.

Thanks & yes from the top it looks fairly easy, however we'll see once I dig in a little deeper.

[Tundra Twin Track]

This is a 1950 ML 16 with a facelift and up grades.

[Mcgyver]

Very impressive resto' Not sure I'll take it to that level, I'll be happy to end up with a clean solid running saw.

agreed....beautiful job but I could go that extreme on a bandsaw.....that guy needs to find an old '36 two seater Bentley in a barn or something.

[Lowery Racing]

This is a 1950 ML 16 with a facelift and up grades.

Very nice looking saw, I like the wheels, I was thinking about doing something similar ..