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How to Corrugate Thin Stainless Steel?.

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  • How to Corrugate Thin Stainless Steel?.

    I would like to corrugate a sheet of thin (0.003" - 0.010") stainless steel. I would like to start with a round or square piece of 12". In this piece I would like to create concentric "indentations." If the piece were circular, a diametrical cross-section might look like the included drawing although a real piece would not need to be as symmetric nor precise. Precision is not required. [Drawing is upside down ]

    It is to be used as a sort of diaphragm. I would like as few concentric indentations as possible. I am just a poor, simple, peasant. So, high tech stuff like fire is a little too advanced. I'm thinking more like stones and wood - maybe a bone?

    What I am making might be used as a bellows. If one attached this around the edges to a flat plate having a hole in the center, one could lift the corrugated piece in the center to draw air in and, then, release to force the air out.

    I would like ideas for creating the corrugation.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  • #2
    Ok. stones, wood and bone it is.
    Find a sharp stone and carve a groove in some wood the shape of the corrugation. Does not have to be the full circle, just a section of it.
    Draw the round groove on the tin and place it over the groove in the wood.

    Now find a bone with a rounded end. (femur?) and the right shaped pounding rock.
    Place rounded end of bone over tin and groove in wood and tap with rock, Force needed will vary with conditions
    .
    Rotate metal and line up over groove in wood. Repeat bone and rock procedure.
    Keep rotating and tapping and someday you will have a circular groove in the tin.

    Repeat this operation for each intended corrugation.
    You may need a supply of bones and rocks as they are considered consumables in this exercise.

    And welcome to the Stone Age Home Shop Machinist Forum

    Comment


    • #3
      That should be pretty easy.

      No tools? That makes it harder.

      Get three 2x4s, 2 pennies, 2 pencils and a hammer.

      Lay two boards down on the ground with the pencil between them. increase the space by wedging the pennies between the board and pencil (one at each end of the pencil). Find a way to keep the boards in place. That sets the size of the corrugation. Set the third board down on the left. Now set the sheet steel down with the groove where you want the corrugation to be. Anchor one side of the metal but not the other. Set the second pencil down right above the groove and whack it with the hammer.

      Instant corrugation.

      There will be other things you may need to do, but that's the absolute easiest I could come up with.
      At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

      Location: SF East Bay.

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      • #4
        I'd like to offer you an alternative idea. Take a can opener and cut the bottom off of a large coffee can. it already has a circular corrugated
        pattern in it.
        Location: Long Island, N.Y.

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        • #5
          If using this as a bellow wont SS work harden with the repeated movements and cause problems?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by RichR View Post
            I'd like to offer you an alternative idea. Take a can opener and cut the bottom off of a large coffee can. it already has a circular corrugated
            pattern in it.
            Because you want a set of circular corrugations I think this might be the best option. Folding longitudinal corrugations would be challenging enough on .010 stock. But circular means you can't just "fold" it. You'd need to actually stretch the metal into circular grooves. And on the thinner stuff that means it'll kink and fold badly and on the thicker stuff it'll fight you hard and just your rocks and a stick won't do the job. Either that our you start with two really BIG rocks and wear the pattern you want into them with the stick. One male and one female and then crash them together really accurately with the metal in between. Because a stretch forming action from a big press is about the only way I can see to do something like what you want.
            Chilliwack BC, Canada

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            • #7
              Round would be easier that square to do but not without tools. If I had to make round tubing like that I would make a set of round male and female dies of the profile I wanted for the "corrugation". Then configure them like a sheet metal bead roller with a throat deep enough to do the tube going from each end. It could be made from scrap materials and doesn't have to be fancy.

              Basically make something like this.

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              • #8
                ......It is to be used as a sort of diaphragm. I would like as few concentric indentations as possible. I am just a poor, simple, peasant. So, high tech stuff like fire is a little too advanced. I'm thinking more like stones and wood - maybe a bone?

                What I am making might be used as a bellows. If one attached this around the edges to a flat plate having a hole in the center, one could lift the corrugated piece in the center to draw air in and, then, release to force the air out.
                Oxford, can that be forced into rolling the flat circles to do what he wants? I've only used one of those rolling machines once and it was to form a safe edge on some flat sheet metal.

                A diaphragm made in this style with MORE rather than less corrugations would be easier to move with a given amount of push and pull and move more air as a result. The fewer and shallower the concentric corrugations the harder it will be to move it easily or the less volume per stroke you'll move. In effect you need to make it more so you're flexing the corrugations and not trying to stretch the metal like a drum skin.
                Chilliwack BC, Canada

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by oxford View Post
                  If using this as a bellow wont SS work harden with the repeated movements and cause problems?
                  Only certain alloys do that.
                  Amount of experience is in direct proportion to the value of broken equipment.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I would try to hydroform it with a pressure washer.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      For a round diaphragm I'd turn male and female forms and use a press, depending upon the depth of forming required several sets of forms of increasing displacement and annealing between stages might be in order.

                      - Nick
                      If you benefit from the Dunning-Kruger Effect you may not even know it ;-)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Magicniner View Post
                        For a round diaphragm I'd turn male and female forms and use a press, depending upon the depth of forming required several sets of forms of increasing displacement and annealing between stages might be in order.

                        - Nick
                        Spin forming again turned form might be also one option if lathe is available.
                        Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          go to a job site and get several short offcuts of thick walled plastic pipe. Cut them all to the same length, and round one end with progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Attach the other end to a piece of plywood such that they are all concentric. Now you have a male die. For the female die, you could cast it using the male die in plaster or perhaps just set it in a tray filled with sand. Then make a stack with female die on the bottom, shim stock, then male die. Then build a ramp, and drive a car up onto back of the male die.

                          allan

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                          • #14
                            Sorry to say, that doesn't look like an easy job at all, considering the equipment that you have. You have one of the hardest materials to work with, especially when it comes to forming. Putting straight corrugations in would be relatively straightforward (basically a series of folds, back & forth), but concentric rings will be really difficult. Doing this with annealed copper would be easier, that maybe a good starting place.

                            Good luck!

                            Ian
                            All of the gear, no idea...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Make a top and bottom die with the shape according to your diagram, but make it only 1/2 inch wide. You need to make them pivot so they will stay in alignment but will open and close. Now arrange to spin the disc through the gap between them. Set up on an anvil or something really solid. Then progressively hammer on the top die and rotate the disc bit by bit. You will probably have to turn the disc a dozen full turns or more until the corrugations are as deep as the die parts you made. I'll estimate that by the time you've got it done you will have brought the hammer down at least 1000 times.

                              If you've followed this idea you will see that you have to overlap each indent to blend it in with the next one, etc, and that you could shape the die curves to suit the radii of the corrugations. Maybe have some Advil on hand for the headache you'll probably get
                              Last edited by darryl; 04-03-2017, 03:15 AM.
                              I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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