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removing JT33 chuck

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  • removing JT33 chuck

    I know Jacobs claims that their no. 6 wedges work on a JT33 taper. Didn't seem to work for me - the shoulder on the arbor is narrower than the opening in the wedges, thus nothing to push against.

    I am tempted to chuck up a slide hammer and just try to tap it off that way. What do you think?

    metalmagpie

  • #2
    Jacobs recommended method is to drill a cross hole in the arbor. Insert a roll pin to act as a shoulder.

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    • #3
      IF this is a drill press with no LH thread retaining screw

      Chuck up as large a piece of stock as the drill chuck will hold, length is no issue, and the longer the better.
      About six inches down from the chuck, give the stock a good rap with a steel hammer. Try to set up as much vibration as can be made.
      Hit again higher or lower if the chuck fails to fall free. It's the vibration and harmonics you are after.

      Much better than trying to pry the chuck free of the taper.

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      • #4
        Drill through the back of the chuck so you can get a punch against the end of the arbor. Drive the arbor out of the chuck. You need some mass brhind the chuck. I grnrtally set it on top of the vide (aluminum jaw caps) and just snug the jaws nagaint the arbor, A decent hard blow should get it.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by metalmagpie View Post
          I know Jacobs claims that their no. 6 wedges work on a JT33 taper. Didn't seem to work for me - the shoulder on the arbor is narrower than the opening in the wedges, thus nothing to push against.

          metalmagpie
          I have been known to mix and match wedges where necessary. Put a #6 on the fat end and a #4 or #3 on the skinny end etc. They still work against each other....

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Highpower View Post
            I have been known to mix and match wedges where necessary. Put a #6 on the fat end and a #4 or #3 on the skinny end etc. They still work against each other....
            ?? #4 ??? I've never seen anything but #1 #2 #3 #6 . Is there any others?? Can't find any reference to any other numbers.
            What ever happened to the missing numbers in a sequence??
            ...lew...

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            • #7
              Put an and mill in it and start side milling......... it will fall right off........ guaranteed !!

              JL....................

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Lew Hartswick View Post
                ?? #4 ??? I've never seen anything but #1 #2 #3 #6 . Is there any others?? Can't find any reference to any other numbers.
                What ever happened to the missing numbers in a sequence??
                ...lew...
                Mea culpa on my part Lew. That's just my old-timers disease flaring up again.

                Albrecht does make a #0 however.

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                • #9
                  If it is on a short arbor, drill through the back of the chuck (inside). Insert a punch. Drive out the arbor.
                  If on a drill press, drill through the back. Tap the hole. Use a bolt to jack the chuck off the spindle.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Illinoyance View Post
                    If it is on a short arbor, drill through the back of the chuck (inside). Insert a punch. Drive out the arbor.
                    If on a drill press, drill through the back. Tap the hole. Use a bolt to jack the chuck off the spindle.
                    Maybe yes, maybe no, on drilling through a chuck. Some are hardened making drilling not so easy.

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                    • #11
                      I've drill holes through about a dozen Jacobs chucks to knock out the arbor. Open the jaws wide open and drill axially through the bottom of the chuck. Stop drilling at the breakthrough and you won't damage the arbor. 3/8"-1/2" drill size so you can use a stiff drift to knock out the jt33. They usually pop out easily. Had only one that had fret welding in the taper. Took a big hammer(hence the large drift size recommendation).

                      Taper wedges don't always fit as others have said and tend to mar the chuck or arbor.

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                      • #12
                        It seems like it would be a no-brainer to have a chuck threaded from the factory so a bolt could be used to push it off an arbor especially on the higher priced ones.
                        Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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                        • #13
                          What sometimes works is to mount the chuck and arbor up in the vice, get a very big screwdriver between the arbor and the back of the chuck, lean hard on the screwdriver and then tap the chuck. The screwdriver by itself will not separate the two parts, but it will reduce the size of the whack needed by a large amount.
                          This also works when getting something out of a morse taper in the lathe, and there it takes the impact off the ball races.

                          Cheers
                          Roger

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                          • #14
                            [QUOTE=JoeLee;1118363]Put an and mill in it and start side milling......... it will fall right off........ guaranteed !!

                            JL....................[/QUOTE
                            Joe's probably right, but if you don't have a cross feed table......

                            I've removed the chuck from my ancient Rockwell drill press by mounting a fair sized hole saw and worrying it thru a hunk of hrs. Several times now, but not when I wanted it off! Seems to work every time.

                            TC
                            I cut it off twice; it's still too short
                            Oregon, USA

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                            • #15
                              I'm in the drilling the chuck camp. There is a gap above the end of the arbor. Of course I have an 11.5mm solid carbide drill bit in case hss is not up to the job.

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