How do I Blast rust off a surface without damaging a scraped surface on another side?

[hammernanvil]

I'm trying to "restore to use" a dividing head tail stock, without damaging the scraped surfaces. We have a bead blaster at work
I have already used on the knobs since they were so rusty. What do I use to protect the other surfaces ?
Does anyone have any Ideas ? Thanks

[Ohio Mike]

Soak it in Evapo-Rust.No grit needed.

[SteveF]

. What do I use to protect the other surfaces ?
Does anyone have any Ideas ? Thanks

Epoxy some metal strips on the scraped surfaces. Heat will weaken the epoxy so they can be removed after the blasting.

Steve

[Frank Ford]

I've used masking tape with good results when sandblasting - being just a bit careful not to hit the edges of the taped surface at a low angle to avoid getting underneath. The blasting media just bounce off the resilient taped surface.

[J Harp]

Anyone tried duct tape?

[Highpower]

I use heavy PVC pipe tape. I blasted and repainted the center on this planar gage. Like Frank said... avoid getting under the edge. Works good for protecting things like bearing surfaces on shafts, and previously painted surfaces that you want to keep too. http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-50...3550/100179778

[Jaakko Fagerlund]

Anyone tried duct tape?

Hard to get it off, masking tape works better.

[chipmaker4130]

I do a lot of sandblasting with very hard, sharp abrasives. I use ordinary electrical tape to protect such surfaces. You'll need to clean the areas to be taped with acetone, etc, and then DON'T stretch the tape as you apply it. Pull it off the roll and lay it in place. Use good tape, like 3M, etc.

This works well because the electrical (PVC) tape is resilient and allows the abrasive to bounce off without digging in too much and shredding the tape. It also pulls off cleanly and if necessary is easily cut to contour with an X-ACTO knife after stickdown.

Personally, I don't think blasting at a reasonable pressure with glass beads will damage a scraped iron surface, nor will it imbed in said surface. That is not something I can say for sure though!

[lakeside53]

I blast 70-100 mesh bead at 60psi. It definitely textures the surface. I use it to remove milling marks from mild steel and it leaves a nice matt finish.

Electrical and most other resilient tapes work fine for masking beads.

[wierdscience]

I use masking tape as well,though two layers just to be sure.

[Black Forest]

We always used duct tape to protect surfaces when SAND blasting. This was on hydraulic pumps for pumping concrete on oil wells to the tune of $150,000 each pump. There were three rams on each pump that would need to be taped off. Also on hydraulic hose fittings.

What would work really good in your application is soda blasting. That is what we used on instrument panels with gauges installed. No taping off, just blast. It would not profile the glass lenses or bezels.

[Bill Pace]

I too use masking tape, duct tape works OK but to me is a bit more --- something? I just prefer masking tape of the old fashioned yellow color in name brand. If you have a piece with heavy paint or rust, etc then I double it. (really dont care for all the blue "easy remove' kind, tooo easy to come loose!)

[Forestgnome]

They make blasting tape. It's basically rubber tape with a strong adhesive. If you're looking for the ultimate in protection. Other tapes work to varying degrees, and probably work fine if you're not using an industrial blaster.
http://www.hillas.com/Categories/Ind...FUOSfgodDF8H5g

[old mart]

I'm 100% with chipmaker4130's post #8.

[Cuttings]

I just read an article about a company around here that has perfected ice blasting. Apparently it leaves very little mess and the little water it leaves behind evaporates away quite quickly. It is supposed to clean as well as sand. I don't know what it would do the the scraped surface.