Reading another thread about replacing electrolytic caps in vintage equipment, it reminded me of my current problem.
Went to an estate sale some time ago, saw some vintage Kenwood stereo gear that had a REMOTE CONTROL!
As it is now taking longer and longer to get across the shop to turn up the volume when AC-DC or Boston comes over the airwaves, I thought, yeah, remote control would save wear and tear on the shoe leather, so I bought the lot. Having fun figuring out Dolby decoders, but it all seems to work.
As part of this system upgrade, I decided it was time to remove from mothballs some other vintage/legacy equipment from the days when I would haul an overgrown stereo system around and play DJ at parties and weddings etc.
The audio amplifier section of this homegrown system consists of two Phase Linear (do they still exist?) units, one 400 and one 700 mounted in a homebrew rack designed for ease of trundling about, them dinosaurs have some seriously heavy transformers!
As it had been possibly 15 (20?) years since they had last seen an an arrangement of electrons done by the likes of Yes, Uriah Heep, or Golden Earring (well ok, Patsy Cline and Vaughn Monroe also) I thought it would be wise to at least replace electrolytic filter caps in the power supplies. The order is sent to Newark, capacitors arrive along with some LEDs that can be adapted for once in a lifetime panel illumination replacement, and are installed and POOF, snap goes the circuit breaker.
Aww crap, I labeled everything before dis-assembly, what did I do wrong?? Polarities look correct. Cycle the 15 amp breaker few times and, miracle of miracles, it stays on after the second cycle. Try this again and it does this consistently every time. The power comes from a switched outlet that is energized when I turn the lights on. So the routine is to walk in, turn on the lights, walk over to the breaker panel, cycle the tripped breaker (now a 20 amp GE plug in version) and everything is fine.
I don't remember having this problem in the past, but it seems to be related to charging those caps on turn on.
Is there a simple way to mitigate this issue? Simpler than staggering startup with a timer and relay? 50 amp breaker? Leaving them powered 24/7?
Opinions and suggestions please, Dave
Nearly forgot, 2, 220,000mf, 100v units in the 700, 2, 100,000mf units in the 400. Somewhat more farads than original, but not double.
Went to an estate sale some time ago, saw some vintage Kenwood stereo gear that had a REMOTE CONTROL!

As it is now taking longer and longer to get across the shop to turn up the volume when AC-DC or Boston comes over the airwaves, I thought, yeah, remote control would save wear and tear on the shoe leather, so I bought the lot. Having fun figuring out Dolby decoders, but it all seems to work.
As part of this system upgrade, I decided it was time to remove from mothballs some other vintage/legacy equipment from the days when I would haul an overgrown stereo system around and play DJ at parties and weddings etc.
The audio amplifier section of this homegrown system consists of two Phase Linear (do they still exist?) units, one 400 and one 700 mounted in a homebrew rack designed for ease of trundling about, them dinosaurs have some seriously heavy transformers!
As it had been possibly 15 (20?) years since they had last seen an an arrangement of electrons done by the likes of Yes, Uriah Heep, or Golden Earring (well ok, Patsy Cline and Vaughn Monroe also) I thought it would be wise to at least replace electrolytic filter caps in the power supplies. The order is sent to Newark, capacitors arrive along with some LEDs that can be adapted for once in a lifetime panel illumination replacement, and are installed and POOF, snap goes the circuit breaker.
Aww crap, I labeled everything before dis-assembly, what did I do wrong?? Polarities look correct. Cycle the 15 amp breaker few times and, miracle of miracles, it stays on after the second cycle. Try this again and it does this consistently every time. The power comes from a switched outlet that is energized when I turn the lights on. So the routine is to walk in, turn on the lights, walk over to the breaker panel, cycle the tripped breaker (now a 20 amp GE plug in version) and everything is fine.
I don't remember having this problem in the past, but it seems to be related to charging those caps on turn on.
Is there a simple way to mitigate this issue? Simpler than staggering startup with a timer and relay? 50 amp breaker? Leaving them powered 24/7?
Opinions and suggestions please, Dave
Nearly forgot, 2, 220,000mf, 100v units in the 700, 2, 100,000mf units in the 400. Somewhat more farads than original, but not double.
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