Queries about a possible quick release bicycle head set

[wombat2go]

Thanks for some good ideas here,
I tend to get locked into the way I did something in the past, and should be thinking more broadly.

I like John's suggestion to modify existing, and softails's too and 754's neck disconnection. I will do some sketches.

I have to start working on the full size special trike design, with refinements over the present version.
The home built wheels shown in the photo will be big enough for the full size, so that saves me a lot of work.

[wombat2go]

The Ritchey Threadless Headset arrived.
The Ritchey fork crown race ( lower bearing) is too small to press onto the step on the existing 1 inch tube.
The step measures 27.0 mm. The original lower fork cone is of tapered ID, going from 27.2 down to 26.0.
So it is easy to start.
It must spring open to some extent to go on the 27.0 step ?

The new Ritchey race is about 26.28mm ID, not tapered as far as I see.
I don't think it will start on the step.

Is there some special tool to expand that?

Anoter minor problem is that the bottom cup will hit the frame before it bottoms.
I can trim the frame for clearance.
I think I will keep the old threaded for this summer and make a new steerer tube in winter.

Another idea is to keep the existing threaded steerer, and turn and thread new 6061 parts to use in place of the Ritchey parts that don't fit the threaded.That would be a lot easier for me.

[754]

I would think the race would be hardened and not stretch much.

[wombat2go]

Yes , would not want to crack it.
It looks like the dimensions of the old threaded type and the new threadless are slightly different on that step.

[softtail]

There are two different race diameters for 1". Absurd as it may be....

Yes there is an expensive cutter .. crown race cutter or fork race cutter...the headset race is not 'adjustable', but the seat at the crown is to a degree via above tool.

Can be done on lathe assuming you can swing the part. I do it after the race is brazed on the steerer, but before the legs are brazed on, so it's a simple tube turning procedure.

I would try to locate the correct id crown race. Don't try to pound it on.. likely hardened and thin.. will crack or will peal a nasty burr that will make it set wonky.

[wombat2go]

I would like to turn one on the lathe, and 6061 is easiest part-off although I can do 4130 too.
This is not a high performance bike and i think 6061 will be OK
It is a backer for the cartridge bearing with a 45 degree chamfer on its ID and in compression on shock loads.

Any way I am learning a bit as I go here.
Thanks for the help.

[BCRider]

The Ritchey Threadless Headset arrived.
The Ritchey fork crown race ( lower bearing) is too small to press onto the step on the existing 1 inch tube.
The step measures 27.0 mm. The original lower fork cone is of tapered ID, going from 27.2 down to 26.0.
So it is easy to start.
It must spring open to some extent to go on the 27.0 step ?

The new Ritchey race is about 26.28mm ID, not tapered as far as I see.
I don't think it will start on the step.

Is there some special tool to expand that?

Anoter minor problem is that the bottom cup will hit the frame before it bottoms.
I can trim the frame for clearance.
I think I will keep the old threaded for this summer and make a new steerer tube in winter.

Another idea is to keep the existing threaded steerer, and turn and thread new 6061 parts to use in place of the Ritchey parts that don't fit the threaded.That would be a lot easier for me.

I'm going to guess that you got yourself a steerer tube from some sort of "bicycle shaped object" as the forums refer to Walmart and Costco bicycles. The dimensions you posted are just plain wrong and the seating area on your steerer tube is off for whatever reason. The Ritchey race is the correct size. And no you cannot stretch it and there is nothing made to stretch them. It's supposed to be a tap into place fit that does not require a major press.

So you're stuck with either a new (proper sized) steerer tube or you can make up the adapters you are considering. You can do this because the cartridge bearings have the hardened races needed and simply need some good support from that lower collar.

[wombat2go]

I'm going to guess that you got yourself a steerer tube from some sort of "bicycle shaped object" as the forums refer to Walmart and Costco bicycles.

Correct.
I made the original, smaller version of the trike from one of those, and some parts are carried over into this larger version.
Originally the drive from the hand cranks was with chain between 2 16T sprockets.
The chain rattled in the complicated chain guards I made also it was difficult to keep adjusted.
That was the reason this trike has gear drive.

[wombat2go]

To get the cartridge bearings temporarily into the old threaded headset, I did some mods today as shown in the following.
Everything went OK, except I dropped the frame and dinged the flange on one of the new Ritchley cups ( soft Aluminium).

Bore Ritchley Lower Cone to fit 27.0mm
https://app.box.com/s/wsh0005s6toozzu08qd8p72smf12edfe
https://app.box.com/s/iwdvjgxkedxiy8k6eakatev8bk0u4ajd

Anneal Old Threaded Upper cone
https://app.box.com/s/x0whpu6ry08oxproh58t79jhpatw3cbh

Using Milling attachment in South Bend 9A, convert the original bearing race partially into a 45 degree bevel
to engage the upper cartridge
https://app.box.com/s/2whsm76y93nqdur46efziqgd8kp7eq31

Temporary headset ready to ride today.
https://app.box.com/s/tqwfthygrg6hcwytv6aopf17hvattbxo

[ulav8r]

Don't like app.box. The pictures take 10-13 seconds each to load.