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Multi-viscosity motor oil question.

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  • #16
    Originally posted by engineerd3d View Post
    On slugged up engines I generally pour 1 quart of cheap ATF in there and run the engine lightly for 10-15 minutes, then I use some of my older used up oil and drain the sludge atf combo and pour in used oil from my car, run another 5-10 minutes and then swap filter and oil. This should remove most of the sludge and keep it liquid enough to not clog up the pathways with a flush of used motor oil to carry out the remaining crap. New oil completes the treatment and a nice clean crank case is the result. Just don't over stress the engine. The main problem with such flushes is trying to keep enough viscosity in the oil to not clog up passage ways while still providing lubrication.

    ATF has a very very aggressive detergent pack in it that basically eats away sludge and turns it into a yougurt consistency.
    If you run detergent oil and change it once in a while you shouldn't have much of a sludge problem.



    • #17
      Joe's right, if the engine has seen any amount of reasonable servicing over the last couple of decades with quality oil, sludge build up should not be a problem.

      Nothing wrong with using a good quality name brand multi viscosity engine oil in this application. My personal choice would be Chevron's Delo 400 LE. It not only meets CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, API diesel engine specs in addition to also meeting API gasoline engine spec SM. In addition it also has one of the highest zinc and phosphorus contents in an oil that still meets SM specs. Although biased toward diesel engine applications it is used extensively in mixed fleet applications that use both gasoline and diesel engines, both turbocharged and naturally aspirated.
      It also has been one of only a few oils that has endured Caterpillar's 3612 series engine, rigorous 7,000 HR test with flying colors. It's always been my favorite for a number of reasons and it's readily available.
      Not that it's the only choice, this isn't a high stress application, it can be met by any number of quality multi-viscosity engine oils.

      The ability of multi-grade oils to stay in grade is more a function of the type and quality of it's polymers used and their ability to remain intact after undergoing shear stress rather than heat exposure. Shear stress literally chops the polymer chains into little pieces thus greatly diminishing it's multi-grade viscosity coverage.

      Heat will oxidize an oil increasing it's viscosity. The heat and oxidation will also expose the oil to releasing a percentage of it's volume due to the oil's volatility. It's ability to resist that characteristic helps make it more thermally stable.
      Both of these qualities are highly dependent on the amount and quality of the additive package that can make up 15-25% of an oil's volume.
      Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
      Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

      Location: British Columbia


      • #18
        20-50 comes to mind, seemed a popular choice with tractors, probably why we had a 45 gallon drum of the stuff in the barn, thin it wasent, it was a shell drum. It was an old tractor mind


        • #19
          Many old vehicles in the 40's used kerosene to thin the oil in cold climates for starting. Actually this was recommended in the users maual that came with them when new.


          • #20
            I have a massey harris poney.Have ben using 20-50 with a can of STP (the blue can type)( STP has the zink in it to replace what was left out.)in it for over 20 years.No harm done yet.It was rebuilt prior to starting to use it tho.Remember the oil filter on these is a partal flow,only a smal part of the oil pumped goes through it,the big part goes to the bearings un filtered.Any sludge will go to the oil passages and bearings


            • #21
              Aircraft engines used a gasoline dilution system for the same thing that sasquatch describes. They ran gas into the oil to thin it. It would boil out in use, so it didn't cause trouble longer term.

              I have a P&W twin Wasp manual that describes the process.
              CNC machines only go through the motions


              • #22
                Rislone makes two different types of MOA's one is a 5 minute flush and the other is a full duration run time BOTH are for cleaning gunk build up out of an engine and Both should be considered SERIOUS MEDICINE

                I do not use the fast flush - it's only recommended you idle the vehicle for five minutes then dump it, idle maybe easier on certain components but others don't know much of a difference - things like cam lobes that are up against the same high spring pressures and such,,,

                the other kind is a powerful detergent but also a lubricant that meets or exceeds AM demands,

                it is still fully capable of degunking an engine and plugging up it's oil filter in short order - same with running synthetics when the engine has been ran on conventional it's whole life and esp. if its high horsepower small displacement = extra heat in a small package... synthetics are superior cleansing lubricants,
                customer just lost their engine due to not heeding these warnings, cleaning is high risk and there's lots to be careful about - but not cleaning is a guaranteed slow death...


                • #23
                  Doesn't it have an oil filter? Run it for a bit and then change the oil and the filter. Do that two or three or more times until the oil comes out clean. Everybody needs a bath once in a while. Clean that sucker out.

                  Edit: looks like a lot of others have suggested the same.

                  Originally posted by strokersix View Post
                  I think 10w30 would work great. One caution however, is modern oils have detergents. If this engine has been run with non-detergent oil there will be sludge accumulations. Modern detergent oil can loosen the sludge and potentially damage the engine.
                  Last edited by Paul Alciatore; 07-27-2017, 02:28 PM.
                  Paul A.
                  SE Texas

                  And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                  You will find that it has discrete steps.


                  • #24
                    I have used multi weight oils most of my life in every thing. I have heard a lot of myths some repeated here. I started using 10w30 in a 57 chevy 235 with out an oil filter. then in a old babbet bearing dipper chevy in a 1 ton truck. no problems what so ever built a lot of race engines used 20 w 50 in them.

                    the only problems I have seen lately is with most of the new production engines using roller cams. the zinc additive is being removed. which causes a real problem with the break-in of a new flat tappet engine. I solved that problem. I found out dollar general oil is good for use in 88 and older engines. have been using it for years even in the dirt track car.


                    • #25
                      In old prewar aircraft engines with no oil filter the thought was better to have the sludge stick to the case using non-detergent oil (straight mineral oil) was better than running all the things a filter would catch running it thought the cam, crank bearings & other moving parts.


                      • #26
                        if the pan is not easily accessible then put tractor on trailer, fill engine with gasoline and drive on washboard stop and goes country rds with plenty of potholes, drain then refill with oil and drive a ways still on trailer then go for a start

                        second thought - better stick to kerosene because if the pan was not easily accessible it may soon be when it blows off,,,

                        you could add some powerful cleaners like the rislone 5 minute flush and keep it in for quite awhile (while towing and not running engine) although I think it works it's magic best when heated...
                        Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 07-27-2017, 05:07 PM.


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by sasquatch View Post
                          Many old vehicles in the 40's used kerosene to thin the oil in cold climates for starting. Actually this was recommended in the users maual that came with them when new.
                          Yea, that was smart marketing in the day........... they wanted you to prematurely wear the motor out so you could buy parts and bring it to your local dealer to keep them in business.

                          Last edited by JoeLee; 07-27-2017, 05:53 PM.


                          • #28
                            It's not easy to kill an old tractor engine.


                            • #29
                              It is if you knock all the sludge loose & it plugs up the oil pump pickup which I did on a '53 Dodge Dart that had run non detergent oil so I cleaned out the valve cover which was packed solid but couldn't get the pan off without pulling the engine so I put detergent oil, drove it home from auto shop,oil light came on, kept driving engine seized just as I got home.


                              • #30
                                Keeping the air filter clean can help keep sludge build-up to a minimum. Not sure if anyone mention that.