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O.T. torqueflight transmission ?

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  • #16
    Pico I did get it to break free in neutral after driving in drive and slipping it in neutral and then jossling the throttle and backing off over and over then all the sudden it disengaged - I coasted to a stop and tried reverse then - and total gridlock again like it was getting both forward and reverse at the same time, would that still make sense with your example?

    Gambler im not into it - this things got layers of dinosaur blood caked all over it, it's not my cup of tea at all, if I can't deal with it from access from the pan then im out, im not pulling this pig - just cleaning it would depress me severely...

    im not an archaeologist

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    • #17
      Recently had the same issue with a friends transmission, in his it worked fine till the first shift, then went through the not revving in park and creeping ahead no matter where the lever was placed. On his it was just some varnish like sludge holding some of the valves in place (balls and disks) Tore it down, cleaned it up and it worked fine.
      We did end up taking it in to have it rebuilt anyway because he kept thinking it was the linkage, and adjusting/testing messed up the clutches.

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      • #18
        727 or 904, either one. Pull it. It now needs rebuilt. With what you are describing you have had one of the band pistons get past the snap ring that holds it in place. Probably the 2nd / reverse clutch band.
        I had one do something very similar after I rebuilt it back in the day.
        I was a dumb kid with no tools and rebuilt the thing with a few wrenches, a couple pair of vice grips and a borrowed C Clamp. I didn't get the piston back in that did either low reverse, or 2nd reverse, can't remember which now, but I know the rebuild lasted about 30 minutes and toasted the brand new clutches and steels as well as the bands I put in.

        So, rebuild it, get a performance shift kit and install it going off the RV instructions, unless you want it to shift REALLY hard.
        If that is the case, seek the assistance of a transmission builder that does racing transmissions.
        What you think it's doing, being in more than one gear at a time, is correct. And that breaks them quick it's better to just bite the bullet and get it done as opposed to it starting to slip the next time you drive it and then not make it home under it's own power.

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        • #19
          Ohio what you are describing sounds as close to anything iv heard but I would like to clarify something,
          This transmission works good and shifts good in all forward gears, and even does that in neutral and even seems to want to take off in park save for getting held back by the park sprags,

          so the fact that reverse is the only gear that's inop. is kinda an illusion --- I think reverse is doing exactly what it should be doing, it's engaging - but the reason it cant go anywhere is the fact that the vehicle is still in drive also

          so it's drive that has the problemo and is not releasing for some reason right? might have slipped past said snap ring or due to the band being out of adjustment might have extended travel to far and self jammed or whatever?

          but these pistons all hang out in full view for the most part after the pans removed - and are not the bands adjustable from the bottom?

          I shall try to find out in the meanwhile if you read this please comment on my diagnoses about reverse actually not being the problem and drive being the real culprit...

          Edit; I will add - although the fluid left allot to be desired it was not burnt smelling at all, and this thing just needs to work and not be counted on for cross country trips or anything - he has another motorhome that's more dependable he just needs to get this operable to be able to shuffle around his yard and stuff as it's going to be mostly for guests when they visit and such - if I corrected the problem and he had new fluid in it im sure it would be happy as like I said it drives and shifts good...
          Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 07-28-2017, 09:07 AM.

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          • #20
            I've seen exact same problem, caused by worn washer between the transmission housing and the actuator linkage. It had the appearance of being adjusted properly, but wasn't. Flipped the washer over and reverse was functional.

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            • #21
              yes - it loads the engine but nothing happens - it's total internal gridlock. it has drive all the time and reverse and drive when in reverse...

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              • #22
                I will add this - the reason I know it's in drive all the time is because as I stated it drives forward in neutral and also tries to drive forward even in park, the thing that stops it is the park sprags,

                but you can put it in park on a slope going uphill - the park will hold and the vehicle rolls back an inch till the sprags engage, yet give it a little gas (still in park) and the vehicle goes forward about an inch till the sprags engage again - there's free play in sprag engagement and this is proving it's still in drive when in park - that and the fact that the engine won't rev. it won't rev. because it's in drive and up against the torque converters resistance...

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
                  yes - it loads the engine but nothing happens - it's total internal gridlock. it has drive all the time and reverse and drive when in reverse...
                  Funny AK, all along I'm thinking something that just doesn't fit the picture, although unintentional I'm sure on the part of your unsuspecting friends.

                  It sounds to me that what your friend has is what is very often used in drag racing, yup a transbrake.
                  Has this motorhome previously been used as a drag racer. LOL

                  Here's a simple explanation for those that may not be familiar with them.

                  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transbrake

                  In drag racing, a transbrake is a mechanism that selectively places the transmission in first and reverse gears simultaneously, effectively holding the race car stationary as if the foot brake was applied. It is specifically used on automatic transmissions that employ a torque converter, where it is beneficial to build up hydraulic pressure before the vehicle is launched. The transbrake is activated by the driver by applying electric current to a solenoid at the transmission. With the transbrake engaged (transmission locked), the engine throttle can be increased to any position (opening) in preparation for launch without the race driver worrying about the car creeping forward. Milliseconds before the green light illuminates on the Tree the transbrake is released (by the driver releasing an electrical switch or by a delay box "timing out" originally triggered by the driver releasing an electrical switch) and the car launches forward, its engine already in the higher power band and the transmission already in low gear.

                  Also very handy when building boost pre-launch in a turbo car.






                  Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                  Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                  Location: British Columbia

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                  • #24
                    years ago I rebuilt a Chrysler Torqueflite box from an Aston Martin DBS V8, only auto trans I have ever repaired The bands are operated by pistons in cylinders which I think are visible from the sump without removing the transmission, one or mere have stuck or siezed (as said above), if this has not been driven for a long time, and you can free the pistons, flush and change the fluid should be allthat is needed, unles there are bits of friction material in the fluid, which requires a rebuild. I was tipped off that the same trans was used in a Matbro fork lift, found a local dealer, and got a rebuild kit for a fraction of standard car pricing!
                    Man who say it cannot be done should not disturb man doing it! https://www.youtube.com/user/philhermetic/videos?

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                    • #25
                      Keen insight once again Willy - had no idea this kinda thing went on but finding out there's a whole entire underground thing going on with motorhomes --------- http://bangshift.com/wp-content/uplo...9.16.09-AM.png

                      Well I confirmed that the thing disengages in neutral whilst driving, but when you get back to about 10 or 15 mph it re-engages into drive

                      pulled the pan again and looked things over real good - no anomalies that I can see - did a little pushing - pulling - tugging and snugging - then pulled the valve body - got it home and am going into it to see whuts up

                      the bands look intact and maybe a little loose so will adjust - hard to tell by looking at the clutch packs if anythings bad but again nothing substantial in the fluid and no burnt smell...

                      just have to see what I can see when I crack the valve body open - will keep u posted thanks everyone.

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                      • #26
                        Awesome Picoprecision - everything your saying is computing - you talk the talk I understand and seem to go about things the same way - thank you very much for your specialist advice, for the record the vehicle does not freewheel when in drive or any of the lower gears - all speeds use the engine resistance for deceleration...

                        please stay tuned - and I might also try to PM you if I do not find out anything obvious in the valve body or when I apply pressure to the clutch pack and band ports... thanks again little over my head here but that's never stopped me before...

                        just going to test the band ports for good measure - understood what you stated

                        it's very clear to me you have this whole operating schematic in your head... and that incidentally is what it takes to diagnose.
                        Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 07-28-2017, 07:55 PM.

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                        • #27
                          In earlier years, my friends used to refer to the Chrysler Torque-Flight transmission as the Torque-Slip. I've only owned one standard shift 1954 Plymouth three-by-knee and even the manual clutch slipped.

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                          • #28
                            I have been running a 727 behind a built 360 for years in my rock crawler. Once they are built right they run forever.

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                            • #29
                              Wow listen to that Cam, only thing slipping there was the tires, that chicks got balls

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
                                Wow listen to that Cam, only thing slipping there was the tires, that chicks got balls
                                Well, what did you expect in a thread about trannys?
                                Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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