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O.T. torqueflight transmission ?

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  • #31
    just having that valve body off today and looking at the bands - the nature of a band is to amplify the clamping force, in one rotational direction only though - they would be at a mere fraction of the clamping force in the opposite direction, at least with the ones I seen today and how they were designed,,, an ounce of pressure is worth a ton of clamping force if the trailing end of the band is the end being actuated...

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Arcane View Post
      Well, what did you expect in a thread about trannys?
      got to give that to you - technically correct and pretty funny to boot lol

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      • #33
        Update;
        I tore into the valve body yesterday evening, I was a little dismayed as none of the VB are sticky or anything caught in them and all seemed to be in the right place and on and on - nothing really too concerning so went to bed kinda bumming out about it all thinking i'll just take a look at it in the morning to see what's what and maybe with a fresh mind will find something.

        double checked everything and was sinking back into a slump when I started cleaning the oil off and taking a closer look at the steel intermediate plate,
        it also serves as the check valve plate for the various balls to work against and hold a seal, well some of these holes are VERY wallowed out and not in a concentric way they are ovalized and all kinds of crap --- connected an air hose to fit over the ball and applied some pressure and one in particular leaks like a sieve,
        I still have not pressure checked the clutch packs on the trans as that's at my friends house and will do that - but im going to look at the schematic in Willys link that he posted and see if this port would give power to the rear clutch pack if it was backfeeding when it's not supposed too... if that's the case and then the clutch pack checks out then I would think I at least have a fair chance of fixing this thing,
        Im going to find a rough draft center of the hole and then go in for a clean up with a ball endmill the same size as the check balls to fix allot of them.

        wish I could post pics but don't know how to adapt them yet...

        kinda depends on the amount of fluid they allow to leak out of a clutch pack I suppose - im sure its not a dead end or it would not self bleed air so assuming they have a little bleed port that allows for some fluid to be used just in function,,, if the leakage in the check ball exceeds the bleed ports size then it would allow for pressure to build in a system that's not intended - resulting in an engaging clutch pack at all times...

        we shall see - at least I got something to shoot for...

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        • #34
          Sounds like you may be onto something AK.If you've thoroughly checked all of the other components for functionality and integrity then the easy fruit has been picked so you are going to have to dig a little deeper. Not having the separator plate and valve body in hand to view I am thinking you may be onto something here if it's as bad as you describe. Hard to diagnose long distance but you're a smart and thorough troubleshooter I'm sure you won't rest until you've found the source. It just takes a good understanding of what should take place and what is actually happening and then taking note of why there is a difference. I'm confident you will get there.

          As far as the Torqueslip comment goes I have to laugh at someone that makes comments like this. The Torqueflight automatic was THE auto transmission of choice for many years during the muscle car era when they held up their end just fine behind the big block max wedges and hemis that dominated drag racing. Having built some very stout Chrysler big blocks and Torqueflites over the years I can certainly testify to their ability to function well under extreme conditions.
          Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
          Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

          Location: British Columbia

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          • #35
            I don't know Willy - tested it again - it leaks every time but that's air and fluid would not be much and adding more pressure would probably help it seal and all

            that and a fairly loose fitting selector VB are the only discrepancies iv found so far

            if this one check valve is indeed doing it I would think the clutch pack would have to be a total seal dead end and I don't think they do that do they? how would it self purge air if they did?

            going to fix it anyways - might head over to his house and run a test on his clutch pack first though so I don't end up putting lipstick on a pig (guess that's going to happen no matter what the outcome lol)

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            • #36
              They made a mail carrier in the 70's with a chevy 4 cly in it. the chevy tranys wouldnt hold up so they put torqueflight in them

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              • #37
                Well - went through the valve body with a fine tooth comb - after looking over the schematic in Willys link (very good link BTW)
                I was not hopeful at all that the ovalized check valve ports were going to cure the problemo,

                turns out neutral does not even engage pressures on either side of any of the check valving and since neutral drives the vehicle forward there must be another issue,
                I did find a slightly warped valve body cover, and precision hand stoned it in, also fixed two of the worst check valve seats just because while I had it down might as well.

                before I did any of this I pressure tested the front and rear clutch packs - that was not very promising either - the front made a very nice single low thud engagement - the rear pack sounded totally different - it seemed to make that first thud but then when more pressure was applied sounded like it had allot of travel in there and movement and a kinda funky louder thud would be heard...

                so all in all told him don't get your hopes up I think your rear clutch pack is toast - put everything back together - and even adjusted the bands for good measure too but sure nuff no change.

                there's three things that will drive the vehicle forward in neutral, a poor adjusted shift cable - a quirk in the valve body - or a locked up rear clutch pack, im confident I got the first two covered so is what it is, he had to find out if it was going to be simple or not - it's not so the unit has to come out... at this point I do not think im going to be the guy to do that part of it...

                thanks for all the advise - I feel like I know this system fair now - at first it was a total mystery though that's for sure.

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                • #38
                  You've gone as far as possible without an actual disassembly and component check. Very likely that the rear clutch drum is worn and the clutch is not releasing due to grooves in the splines of the drum or any combination of disintegrating frictions or warped steels. Old high mileage transmissions like this that have seen motorhome duty 40-50 years and have likely never been out usually need a major going over.

                  You did what you could without spending more time and money on it than it's worth and gave your friend a helping hand while learning old school automatic transmissions. It sounded from the get go you knew you trying to put lipstick on a pig and you were right. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Give yourself an atta-boy for at least trying.
                  Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                  Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                  Location: British Columbia

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