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Super Glue

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  • Super Glue

    What sort of gap do I need to leave between a retainer (aka thick washer) and a rod when using super glue? I currently lightly press the retainer onto the rod. Would that scrape the superglue off the rod and starve the joint? I bought "Loctite super glue ultra gel control". It doesn't tell me if it likes gaps or not, or better yet how large a gap could be.

    Maybe I only need the glue on the external interface between the rod and the retainer. I don't know.

    Videos on youtube only tell me how great this stuff is, and how to glue a rubber hose to a bowling ball.

  • #2
    if you get the gel, it can be harder to use for that.

    Get the thin watery type. Then you can have a small gap and the glue will run into the joint. The gel usually makes a much thicker and weaker joint, but it is good for certain things. Problem is that any more it's all you can find at many stores.

    Superglue is good stuff, FOR CERTAIN THINGS. It does not take vibration or impact at all. Those ads where one drop holds up a car... if you tap the joint with a hammer, the car could easily be dropped instantly. They take a lot of trouble to make sure there is nothing but pure axial tension on that joint, and a perfectly prepared joint is used.

    it does some things well. For instance, holding up a car long enough to take an advertisment photo.
    Last edited by J Tiers; 07-30-2017, 11:14 AM.
    CNC machines only go through the motions


    • #3
      Thanks for the info Jerry. I have never been successful with super glues before. It's been a while and chances are all the formulas are so improved it's a new thing. I'm trying new things lately, and I decided this was a thing. This particular formula has been designed to mitigate the issues with impact and vibration. We'll see if it's just a mess or not.

      I don't really know how to gain trust in something like this without making a few examples and testing them to destruction.


      • #4
        Glues skin together like no tomorrow. Tolerances and cleanliness be damned.


        • #5
          I might have been a little rough on it......

          It's actually, in the thin variety, very good for things with a clean break, that are relatively non-porous.

          I repaired a "nautilus" shell that broke with it, for instance. Used the watery stuff. Put the joint together, and then touched a drop to it. It ran through the joint a pretty long way. Did that in a couple inconspicuous places, and yo really could not see the break.

          Probably it would work on pieces of decorative ceramic as well, have not tried that. The coarse porous ceramic might not be as good as the more solid types. A thin joint seems to be key to it working well.

          I know a guy who claimed it worked well for MDF. He built tight jointed boxes (speaker cabinets), some with large finger joints, and said he just touched the glue to the joints and it ran in and held well.

          The gel is like any glue, it takes up space, so if you have parts that fit closely together, it holds them apart, and you see a glue line. That's where the thin type shines, as probably with your metal to metal joint. The glue line can be nearly invisible.
          CNC machines only go through the motions


          • #6
            The "proper" way to use the glue is put the pieces together and use the thinnest glue you can and let capillary effect pull it into the joint, just like silver brazing. The thicker stuff is for filling gaps. There are rubber impregnated super glued if you need a more flexible joint too.


            • #7
              Whatever you have left put on the toilet seat.


              • #8
                Away back at the end of the sixties beginning of the nineteen seventies ,A group of us at the dental hospital in Glasgow as (I recall) were first introduced to this type of glue I seem to recall the hilarity when one of our lecturers was asked to squeeze a small amount onto his thumb and told to gently bring together that thumb and it's opposing index finger tip and wait for a number of seconds around ten I think at the time. Nothing before had ever been seen at that time. At first we thought that John our lecturer, was pretending when struggling to get his fingers apart. He started off laughing and so did we, then it became clear it was no joke. Eventually his fingers were separated, probably by the release agent. Everyone was warned seriously not to drink it, AS IF ANYONE WOULD. But seriously warned not to use it without gloves and most of all eye protection. As I recall, and the reason for this prolonged reply is that then I remember distinctly being told it was designed for and being used for surgery to close up wounds during and at the end of operations , one of it's strong points was that it worked better if the opposing part which did not need glue was wetted a little as the water seemed to help catalyze and speed up the reaction setting time. It was said to be very useful in closing wounds, at that time during the notorious Vietnam war and was being set up as a lifesaver when properly used. It was of course used for everything else and I never heard again about it's possible use in or during surgery, I personally would prefer it to hot melt glue LOL) does anyone else remember this at that time? Alistair
                Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


                • #9
                  This may throw some light on what I heard way back when. LOL
                  Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


                  • #10
                    Somehow I doubt that super glue was ever intended or recommended to close bullet wounds. The last thing you want to do with a penetrating wound is close it permanently. The infections that would cause would be deadly. You DO want to seal the wound temporarily until medical care is available. You need something that stops the bleeding but can be easily removed in the ER. I think if I suffered a bullet wound I wouldn't be thrilled with the ER doctor pouring acetone over it to remove the super glue.
                    There's a product on the market called Quick-Clot. The earliest versions were made from shrimp shells but later versions are made from kaolin to avoid allergic reactions. They're available both as a powder to pour onto the wound and as an impregnated dressing to tie over the wound. Both promote rapid clotting to stem blood loss and both can be removed in the ER with warm water.

                    Having said that, I do occasionally use regular super glue to close up minor cuts even though it's not sterile. There are medical grades of cyanoacrylate glues (Dermabond is one) but they are expensive.


                    • #11
                      Tony, as mentioned that gel formula is for more gap filling uses. For what you're doing you want the super thin stuff that sloshes around in the bottle like water. Not like cooking oil, but seems like it's water.

                      A light press fit is fine if the fit has some roughened surfaces to allow the thin formula CA to wick into the small scratches of the surface and then kick off. Done well it'll be at least as good as soft soldering.

                      To test the glue I once glued a nut to an 8-32 screw with thin CA. After it had kicked and cured for an hour I tried to remove the nut. The screw twist sheared instead so I considered that a success. Granted the screw was some electronics outfits finest "chinesium" or other but still, it was a steel and it took an impressive amount of torque to bust it. The joint holding the nut didn't even notice my efforts.
                      Chilliwack BC, Canada


                      • #12
                        If you dust the joint with baking soda the glue will set almost instantly. Also for filling gaps or missing pieces fill with baking soda, it will form a hard substance in the missing section.


                        • #13
                          So, here we go. Thanks all. The retainers weren't a press fit, but were a 'good' fit, so I'm confident that some super glue is between the retainer and leg.


                          And i learned an important lesson. I left some Sharpie-marker layout on one of the legs and super-glued over it. I figured a bazillionth of an inch of marker would not matter. Wrong. I was able to pull the retainer off with my fingers. The retainer could have had cutting oil on it from the lathe, too. I soaked them all in acetone after that, and cleaned the handle legs with acetone, too.


                          • #14
                            I'd be tempted to round out one side of the hole in the washer, the side opposite the force that would be against the washer. That will give room for the sg to wick into, and a wedge shape to it as well. This will help to prevent the washer from just slipping across the super glue. It would also tend to compress the sg against the shaft, and would require the washer to grow in order to be forced off.
                            I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


                            • #15
                              I have use medical grade super glue to seal up a gash on my hand. Worked well. It is used in medicine here and there.