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Grinding clearance advise

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  • Grinding clearance advise

    I have a Harig 6x12 surface grinder and I want to grind a vise fixed jaw but I need to have enough clearance for my hub to get by the vise base. I am looking at a recessed or straight cup grinding wheel. I tried a type 11 curved dish but it didn't allow enough clearance for the arbor hub and nut. I am looking at a type 32A or 38A 46 grit wheel. The ones that I think have enough clearance (about 5/8") are 1 1/4" wide. Any advise here would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    Skipd1

  • #2
    well......lots of guys will jump up and down about this, but you can grind it on the side of a regular wheel if the dimensions are such that it will reach to the bottom, just go light and easy. Starting 1/4 - 3/8" in from the edge, relieve the side of the wheel 5 or ten thou so there is a ring shape that will make contact - much the same fashion as a cup wheel would make contact. The relief reduces friction so it doesn't get too hot. Flood is always best when grinding. It'll look like the type 5 here http://www.waybuilder.net/free-ed/Re...s/ch05.h96.gif
    .

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    • #3
      I tried with a straight wheel but the height of the jaw is higher than the radius of uncovered wheel. I dressed the wheel side to about 92 degrees.

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      • #4
        Can you mount a wheel large enough for your job in the existing guard? If no, it's risky but you can remove the guard and mount a 1" larger wheel. I once made an oversize guard from a thrift shop cook pot. Then there's quick and dirty fab etc if you think you need a guard. Feel lucky?

        Relieving the side of the wheel to grind a vertical face is an old trick, frowned on but sometimes necessary because it works so well. All you need is a little face projection at the wheel periphery. You can hand dress the relief with a diamond or a Norbide stock. Mere thousandths is all the relief you need. Get heavy-handed over time and the wheel may get thin enough to be useless or dangerous. Check with a straight edge like a 12" scale laid across the chord.

        BTW do a little measuring. The necessary wheel diameter will be two times the work face vertical dimension plus the wheel hub diameter plus an allowance.

        Also, BTW, the jaw face to the base should lean in a tenth or two so it deflects square from clamping forces. Simple to do. Place a 0.001" shim under the far end but scan the base with a DTI to make sure you got the angle right. This presumes your wheel axis is square with the table path.
        Last edited by Forrest Addy; 08-04-2017, 07:52 PM.

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