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Enco 110-1340 (13X40) Lathe - Electrical Issues and Their Resolution.

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  • Enco 110-1340 (13X40) Lathe - Electrical Issues and Their Resolution.

    Hello all.
    Back in 1995, I purchased an Enco 110-1340 (13X40) lathe at the Enco store in San Jose, CA. This was just before the closed their brick and mortar stores and went online. I had little to no knowledge of lathes at the time and, in particular, their electrical controls. Therein lies a tale.

    My wife and I took it home in the crate and after much wrangling and hoisting with a ceiling chain hoist and and engine lift, the machine was duly set up and leveled nicely. There it has sat for the past 22 years.

    I had to open the electrical cabinet on the rear of the gear case in order to connect the 240 Volt cable into the panel. The manual that came with it only showed this in the barest of terms, but I managed to get it done. At the time, I took one look at the electrical panel with it's various contactors and was immediately terrified. I vowed never to look in there again unless absolutely necessary. After that the lathe worked perfectly aver since.

    Fast forward to the first week of July of this year. I went out to use the lathe and noticed that there was no red light when I turned it on. There was also the faint odor of burning shellac. I immediately unplugged the power cable and removed the four screws securing the cover of the panel. The panel was partially burned up. The control transformer which converts 240 Volts to 120 Volts for the contactors was black and the wires leading to it were partially melted. Also I noticed that of the three contactors, only one would move when the moving portion was pressed it. In other words, a disaster.

    I began checking the manual for some clue as to what happened. After some digging and comparing of the manual to the actual panel, I discovered that:

    1. There were no fuses. (What I had thought was an overload relay was actually only a combination job contactor and on-off-emergency stop contactor) For the record, there were no fuses shown on the electrical schematic that was shown for 240 Volts, single phase hookup.

    2. The primary side of the control transformer was loaded on all of the time with 240 Volts, even when the machine itself was shot off. It had been drawing current for all those years and finally the windings gave out and fed 240 volts into the 120 circuit taking out two of the three contactors.

    (Remember, I said above that I had no real knowledge of lathe electrical panels so go easy, LOL. )

    So, what to do, what to do, what to do? I first called MSC which bought Enco and closed it down a while back. I asked the person on the phone about a control transformer and some contactors and after checking he told me that there were no such parts showing in their inventory. No dice.

    Next call was to Grizzy because their 4016 lathe is basically the same unit. I was told that the control transformer was available to order for $70 but was backordered with no definite date. I thanked the lady and hung up.

    With that in mind I had two choices: Rebuild the panel myself or scrap the lathe. I chose to rebuild it.

    Make a long story short, I got on Amazon and eBay and a week later, I had a matching pair of 4 pole contactors (3 normally open and one normally closed) for forward and reverse with reversing protection, two 2 pole contactors for jogging and on-off emergency stop. I also got fuse holders and built a 240 Volt switch unit to shut the power off completely when the lathe is not in use. I already had an Acme control transformer that mounts outside of the panel and I added a fan, as well. I also had to add 2" to the back of the panel to provide room for the fan and air circulation. I made the terminal board out of cloth phenolic sheeting that I had. The posts are 10-32 brass redi-rod.

    A week later, I had the machine up and running again. The main point of this post is to suggest to Enco and possibly Grizzly lathe owners that they check and make sure that all power is shut off when the machine is not being used. It might also be good to see whether there are any fuses.

    Comments gratefully accepted but be gentle.

    EDIT: Sorry about the photos. I will try to get some photos up on the site ASAP.





    Last edited by GNM109; 08-14-2017, 01:42 PM.

  • #2
    Sounds like you did good work...

    The pics must be marked private or something, I get a "sign into Google" page at the links.
    CNC machines only go through the motions.

    Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
    Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
    Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
    I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
    Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

    Comment


    • #3
      Glad you were able to fix it.

      You make me happy that I connected my Enco 110-1340 lathe with a fused disconnect switch. Since the power is always on, anyone moving the FWD/REV switch could cause things to turn. I never want to hear of a child (or adult) getting hurt because of that, so the disconnect. Now I have more reason to have the disconnect switch.

      Mike

      Comment


      • #4
        I cant see the pictures. The link takes me to the home page and asks me to sign in. Any ways good job on the repair. I always turn the power of at the breaker when I leave the shop so my lathe isn't sitting there powered up all the time.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
          Sounds like you did good work...

          The pics must be marked private or something, I get a "sign into Google" page at the links.
          Thanks. I'll work on the photos right now so that they can be viewed.

          Comment


          • #6
            Here are photo links from Google Drive. I have yet to figure out how to make these show up directly, but at least the viewer can click on the link to see the photo.

            These show the fan and electrical installations as well as a picture showing the nomenclature. The last photo shows where the Acme Control Transformer is mounted. There was no room inside. Just for fun I put a rivet in every inch on the cover. I thought it sort of made the project look "Steampunk". LOL

            The job was done with no modifications to the electrical box itself. I even used springs to hold the addition on so that I wouldn't have to do any metalwork on the box. It makes for better access should any work be needed. The entire unit bolts to the original 8mm studs inside.

            Regards.







            Last edited by GNM109; 08-14-2017, 01:51 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by GNM109 View Post
              Here are photo links from Google Drive. I have yet to figure out how to make these show up directly, but at least the viewer can click on the link to see the photo.
              Photos show up great on my computer, but then I'm almost always logged into Google anyway. Did you make up a schematic of the existing electrical layout and then improve on it? Nice work.

              Dan L
              Salem, Oregon

              Comment


              • #8
                This is where I would have replaced the motor with a 3 phase and added a VFD. that is what I did with my Grizzly G4002 lathe.

                Peter
                Grantham, New Hampshire

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Danl View Post
                  Photos show up great on my computer, but then I'm almost always logged into Google anyway. Did you make up a schematic of the existing electrical layout and then improve on it? Nice work.

                  Dan L
                  Thanks. Yes, I sort of reverse engineered the panel by examining the former wiring setup since the schematic in the manual is rather sparse. It basically only shows the connections for the motor. There are really only three motor wires for 240 Vlt operation and moving one from one of the two 240 volt lines to the other will reverse the motor. So I now have a schematic that represents what is really going on.

                  I hope that people with similar lathes will check and make sure that there is no current going into their lathe's electrical panel when the lathe is shut off. That was my problem. It also lacked fuses, an issue that I addressed in my repairs.

                  It's great to have it working again since I certainly can't afford another one.

                  I plan on using Google Drive to display photos with links until I can find a site that does free or inexpensive hosting.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    looks good now that I see the pics.

                    On a lathe, I probably would have used a finer screen, but then I have had curly swarf issues. Not everyone does.
                    CNC machines only go through the motions.

                    Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                    Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                    Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                    I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                    Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by CPeter View Post
                      This is where I would have replaced the motor with a 3 phase and added a VFD. that is what I did with my Grizzly G4002 lathe.

                      Peter
                      That would be one way to do it. The lathe is an earlier model that has 8 speeds. The motor is single phase, one speed 120 or 240 Volt operation. If the panel ever burns out again, that will be the way to go. Right now, I'm just delighted to have it back running again!

                      I do have a 7.5 hp home-built RPC that I use on my Webb Mill but it's a variable and most of my switching is done when I do power tapping and use the back gear.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
                        looks good now that I see the pics.

                        On a lathe, I probably would have used a finer screen, but then I have had curly swarf issues. Not everyone does.
                        Thanks for looking! Yes, I could easily change the screen but 99% of the swarf goes straight down and lands in the chip pan so nothing ever gets in that area.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Pictures worked this time.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks for looking!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Good job G, I have a 85 model Grizzly that they cant match the schematics to either and am sorting and combining it out, have the emergency stop and
                              foreward go buttons working and when I get to it will get the reverse button hooked up and redraw the schematics to match in case someone else get to be the owner. it has been well taken care of so I don't see any reason my grandson who is an A&P mechanic shouldn't want to take over the darn thing

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