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Stovetop Kiln For Heat Treating O1?

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  • Stovetop Kiln For Heat Treating O1?

    I have an idea to construct a 5 sided box made of a stone or ceramic material. It will fit over a natural gas stove top burner and act as a small oven. Has anybody tried this, or is it even possible to hit the critical temp for O1 @1500f?

    I do not have a BTU output for this natural gas stove, but I have two stovetops with many sizes of burners to try. Without any sort of insulation, I can get O1 to cherry red but it's not quite hot enough. It starts to loose magnetism but can't quite get there.

    Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

  • #2
    As a caveat, I've only used heat for welding, cutting or bending (sometimes resulting in melting), but for any oven, they work on principle of putting the same amount, or more energy in, relative to how much energy is coming out.

    So, if you can insulate your box well enough, then it can reach that 1500f inside, and the btu's of your stove just control how long it takes.


    • #3
      I doubt you'd be able to get it hot enough just using the stove burners. Maybe if you had perfect insulation in your enclosure, but that'd be hard to do without making this a permanent assembly on the stove.

      Depending on the size of your parts you can make a perfectly serviceable heat treatment forge with 2 firebricks and a blow torch:

      Can do the same thing with a paint can and some kaowool too. Either would work fine for O1. My personal favorite method is an electric heat treatment kiln, but that's a little overkill


      • #4
        Well if you can get close just using the burner now, you should be able to get higher if you can slow the heat loss with some sort of insulated enclosure.

        Dave_r has it right, the enclosure is to limit and slow heat loss. I have a small electric kiln (~5" cube internally) that can easily reach 1500F and it draws about 750W, which is less than a toaster.


        • #5
          You just need to make sure the flow of combustion gas is not affected so that there is not enough air or it won't burn completely, while preventing excess cold air bine drawn in. So I suggest a chimney at the top to pull the hot gas through instead of around, with some form of flow control.


          • #6
            Originally posted by Baz View Post
            You just need to make sure the flow of combustion gas is not affected so that there is not enough air or it won't burn completely, while preventing excess cold air bine drawn in. So I suggest a chimney at the top to pull the hot gas through instead of around, with some form of flow control.
            That's what I was thinking as well. Chimney and closable air draw port. Could be done with few a stacked fire bricks. The heat might damage the stove top.
            *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.


            • #7
              Wow! I sure hope this isn't your primary cooking range. You must be single.

              Better insulate the top of the range too or you can kiss any finish and flat metal top goodbye. It will probably toast any trim rings around the burner(s) too. Cement backer board (2'x4'x3/8") is good to about 1800*F. I've used it for high current resistor coil insulation on a golf cart. I would certainly protect the top with something heat resistant and remove any trim rings as well as protect the edges of the openings.

              All things considered, I think it's a bad idea.


              • #8
                In the old days, we used 2 electric stove elements, the solid ones, to heat the windings of the burned out motors to ease the stripping of the copper. The motors (up to 7,5Hp) would go on top of one disc and the other would cover the other end. A few minutes would "carbonize" the insulation varnish and would ease the stripping of the windings. Much cleaner and less noisy than the propane torch.
                Helder Ferreira
                Setubal, Portugal


                • #9
                  The cooking burners require air to come in around the base of the grill. And if you are going to hold in enough heat to get anything up to red hot the heat WILL extend back down and ruin the range itself. Also with this need for enough gap to get fresh air in for the burner it's almost certain that it'll keep your box from becoming hot enough. It's not a forced air setup and to ensure a good natural air flow into the burner the gap will need to be large enough for a good natural air flow that some mixing with the hot gases will be unavoidable. If you don't mind ruining the range top on one of the stoves then give it a try. But I suspect that the resistance to air flow will cause the burner to go out.

                  I tried something similar with some firebricks and a cheap propane torch one time. If I closed off the fire bricks well enough to hold in the heat then it was too much back pressure and the torch extinguished itself. I'm pretty sure your idea will do the same thing if the top assembly is down tight enough to hold in the heat well.
                  Chilliwack BC, Canada


                  • #10
                    Typically, air is drawn in from under the range top at the point of gas injection. The corrugated or perforated "burner" is just a diffuser. Perhaps newer gas ranges are different but the ones I've had (years ago) were adjustable for air intake and that was under the top. I remember one had a central pilot flame for all burners. The ones after that were electric start. I've used electric for about the last 30-40 years so memory is questionable.


                    • #11
                      I still strongly suspect that the flow will be blocked by the "oven" sitting on the burner and greatly blocking the flow to where the flame extinguishes. It would be easy enough to test this with a regular pot laid over the burner for a few seconds to see if it blocks the flow and cuts off the flame.

                      Ya know.... You Tube and the web are full of burner designs that work off a cheap and easily filled propane cylinder as used on barbeques and the like. And forges that work well in concert with these simple and cheap to make burners also abound. Why ruin a gas cooking stove in an attempt to make a usable gas forge when you would already be doing about half the work in making up the "box" to fit over the stove?
                      Last edited by BCRider; 08-21-2017, 04:00 PM.
                      Chilliwack BC, Canada


                      • #12
                        The wife bought a "stove top griddle that spanned two electric burners on the stove. She turned it on (too high) and turned around to prepare the meal. In ten minutes time it managed to destroy the trim rings, one of the burner's socket and chipped the enamel on top of the stove from uneven expansion.

                        I'd not try it unless it was a spare stove.

                        At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.