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  • #16
    A friend of mine just finished his 20' x 35' wood shop.
    He buried 5" air duct in the concrete floor, all around for his dust collection system.
    I thought that was a good idea. Otta the way and easy to clean.
    The shop ("Tough-Shed") went up in about 3 days, looks good and well built.
    Tom M.

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    • #17
      <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mayfieldtm:
      He buried 5" air duct in the concrete floor, all around for his dust collection system.
      I thought that was a good idea. Otta the way and easy to clean.
      Tom M.
      </font>
      Hope he *really* buried it, as the problem with anything buried in concrete where some weight runs across the floor are increased likelyhood of cracks in the floor.

      I once has wiring buried in the floor and after some years noticed cracks that followed the wiring run exactly.

      Also, if one ever runs water lines in concrete keep good plans as to exactly where they are located. I once rented a house that developed a leak in the hot water output line. Real cute problem as not only was the water bill sky high, so was the electric bill ! After digging up suspected areas with no results they eventually had to create a temporary new line in the attic just for us to get by !

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      • #18
        WHEN I do my "other half"

        I really should've put a house vacuum system in. I really should have put a shallow ditch well in to run all the plumbing and slope it to the outside.

        If I was building another garage. I'd run a ditch right down the middle of each bay, run pvc conduit, air or whatever else I wanted in there with access boxes w/quick connects..
        Hook a exhaust fan up to pull out of the ditch and use it for paint exhaust under the car... You could wetsand the vehicle in there and wash the floor keeping my shop cleaner easier..

        As far as the fabrication side, well I'd want a piece of 5x10x+1/2" metal on the floor to tack to.. when I subframe a car it is good to have a anchor to tack weld supports to retain stock locations on bumpers and body mounts.

        And the machine side?
        Then the vacuum system.. whoo hoo.. wouldn't that be grand? but how do you vacuum up 10-12" spiral chips? Also a drain in that floor.. but covered in metal plate instead of grate. AND a private clean office with phone... my phone in my present shop.. well you better have a rag handy to hold it with..


        [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 11-11-2005).]

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        • #19
          My dad has been thinking about adding a garage to the side of the house. We started looking and found these guys;

          http://www.steelbuilding.com/buildin...dings_main.htm

          They have a very interactive page that will allow you to design the steel buliding of your dreams, to your local county spec. At the end of the online process it will even quote you a price...Delivered. I don't think you can find a more comprehensive building webpage anywhere. No, I don't work for them.

          [This message has been edited by Rugby10 (edited 08-12-2004).]
          343 ~ \"Never Forget\"

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          • #20
            .

            [This message has been edited by pgmrdan (edited 09-02-2004).]

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            • #21
              Jerry, A couple of suggestions from what I've seen in various shops. They are never big enough. I don't know if my cars will every go back in the garage. My dad recently put up a 24 * 50 storage shed (10 ft longer than he needed). It was full before it was finished. Make sure not to skimp on the concrete. Machine tools are of course heavy. I noticed you do blacksmithing. Depending on the size of your average pieces, it may be a good idea to have an extra thick section to the slab to set the anvil on. If you possess a trip hammer or are thinking of one, it may be appropriate to have one more. I like your decision on how to split up areas, Right now I've got three (Woodworking/electronics/material storage, machine tools/blacksmithing/welding/general assembly,& foundry) It would be nice to get all the hot work in one area and maybe have an area for painting and sandblasting some day. Something else I've found that is important is the doors. At least one big bay door makes life easier (more are even better!!). It's great when moving tools or supplies in and out. Extending the slab outside of a bay can be useful. There are many days I've wanted to take the cherry picker outside, but could not because small wheels like to sink into gravel. Don't make it too nice though, otherwise you may never see the inside of your house again.

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              • #22
                ...Don't make it too nice though, otherwise you may never see the inside of your house again.

                one of my customer's did just that. Lower level of his house is the garage. Room for 3 cars, rest of the garage is raised 4" for water and snow. Left side is 30 foot of floor to ceiling cabinets. In front of the cars is a counter with sink and built in refrigerator. 40k in cabinets and Coran counters. Then the bathroom is in the right corner. On the right side is a leather couch, recliner and weight lifting area. Ceramic tile through out. The 27" TV is mounted on the wall of the bath room on a swivel (hospital style) so it can be rotated for viewing throughout the garage.

                I kept thinking, my house is not as nice (or cost as much) as his garage.


                [This message has been edited by JPR (edited 08-12-2004).]
                John

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                • #23
                  I know for the machines, like my mill and lathe, I may need to make the slab thicker in those areas or just make the whole slab thick. For my power hammer, that is a different situation. I am planning on leaving a well in the slab, then fill it with sand and put the hammer on the sand. The sand absorbs the beating that normally the floor gets.

                  How thick are garage floors and how thick should I make the slab for this work building?


                  I have plenty of time at the moment to do the planing as that we haven't gotten the land yet.


                  Jerry

                  [This message has been edited by jfsmith (edited 08-13-2004).]

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                  • #24
                    My slab is 4" w/fibre hair reinforcement.

                    I have it on a retaining wall on the back about 3 feet tall on a foundation 24" wide and at least 12" thick. The retaining wall is full of gravel w/no dirt. I am on the side of a hill. The concrete slab and foundation cost me $4000 (w/backhoe & bobcat rental), the building 2x4 and sheet steel cost $800, no finish inside.

                    It is 24x24.. Now I have subdivided it inside, got too many machines in it. I got this perfectly good 24"x120" cinncinati lathe gave to me.. yeah it is in the corner of one side with things piled on it.. And then the 24" shaper-project-boat anchor. ANd the B&S 1900 drill press project. and the 50 ton press project... and..(harley,racecar,electronic parts).. My mill and leblond lathe occupy about a 8x8 space in the air conditioned side.. I do have room for my stereo and my beer fridge over my leblond on a shelf..

                    As you may have guessed, it is too small.

                    Tools are like having a 747, it'd be nice but where do you put them?



                    [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 11-11-2005).]

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                    • #25
                      I may be prejudiced as I build metal all steel and wood post and beam buildings. I have never erected one of the curved roof--either the straight wall or the quansit type, but I don't want to either. I used to put up feed mills with thousands of bolts in the feed and grain bins and you wear the ends of your fingers off even with the best tools available. A tractor friend of mine recently bought a 38 x 65' Miracle Span building at an auction for $1200 new in crates and sitting inside. It was 7 years old and the owners did not want to put it up either and local contractors declined. It took him and three sons with forklift and good equipment 3 weeks to get it up. Then it did not have windows in sidewalls and he had to cut additional window and door openings in endwalls and weld frames. My steel supplier is Meuller Manuf out of Ballinger TX (they have wearhouses in TX, OK La and NM) and they sell what are called Kit buildings in several sizes. You can erect one with a forklift, tractor and loader, winch truck ect--I know as I have done all of the above. We set most of our steel with backhoe with stinger on bucket and then sheet with manlift mounted above bucket--saves on skytrack rental. Anywhere in US there are metal building fabricators who offer buildings like these--shop around and the prices are comprable with the others and are much more versitle. Whatever you do, figure what size you need and double it before you pour concrete or buy steel.
                      Bear

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                      • #26
                        JUST EMAIL ME FOR ALL THE INFO YOU NEED.
                        MINE IT A 30X40 AND IT HAS SPRAY ON INSULATION(ISONEEN)SP?
                        3 PEOPLE PUT IT UP I A WEEK.

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                        • #27
                          Sprayed insulation looks ok new but is some seriously ugly stuff when it gets old and dirty.

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                          • #28
                            <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by D. Thomas:
                            Sprayed insulation looks ok new but is some seriously ugly stuff when it gets old and dirty.</font>

                            Curious though... It may be ugly as hell when the dust settles on it, but does it still work fine? Or does it start to compact down and loose it's insulation value?

                            I've got that stuff in my attic, never really looked up there, so I only care if it works!

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                            • #29
                              IF IT IS IN YOUR ATTIC , WHO CARES WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE.

                              IT CAN BE AS UGLY AS IT CAN BE ,I CAN PRACTALLY HEAT THE SHOP WITH A MATCH.

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                              • #30
                                IO:

                                I'd live in a cave if I had one... I agree.. if it works it is great.

                                Some building codes are not so liberal thou.

                                I don't really like welding in a wood frame shop.. My grinder has blackened some spots here and there..




                                [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 11-11-2005).]

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