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  • #16
    Originally posted by RB211 View Post
    Hell, I'll 3d print it for you out of PLA for free, just pay postage
    Thank you for the kind offer, but I'll fight my way thru this with a fabricated part. (Generally, that's where the fun is, for me.)
    Brian Rupnow

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    • #17
      you'd do well to make it out cast iron like durabar like the Stuart original. Its good bearing material as the cross head runs in this. For sure the kits have become very expensive so I don't blame you for wanting to whittle one, but if you wanted to maintain the look, I believe Stuart sells (or did) individual castings.
      Last edited by Mcgyver; 09-04-2017, 09:18 PM.
      .

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      • #18
        Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
        Well, maybe not insurmountable if you are an experienced tig welder with your own tig set-up. Keep in mind though, that the small outside diameter of the round part is only 13/16" in diameter.
        That would be a problem, wouldn't it...3" bore maybe?
        Len

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        • #19
          Silver solder is the plan, I assume.

          Should not be a problem to do that rib etc with silver soldering.
          1601

          Keep eye on ball.
          Hashim Khan

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          • #20
            I did that years ago !

            Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
            Silver solder is the plan, I assume.

            Should not be a problem to do that rib etc with silver soldering.
            IF you make the individual pieces from steel ,cast iron , or brass about 1/8 " larger than the finished size, silver solder them together, then machine you can make a good replica of the Stuart part. There is a book by Edgar T Westbury giving machining and assembly instructions for the Stuart !0 engines. Hope this is encouraging David Powell.

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            • #21
              The parts name is called a "Standard"
              When I bought a Stuart Turner kit back in 1972, it had no standard.
              I made mine with a cast iron flanged bushing for the crosshead part.
              I made the legs out of brass strips 1/8" by 1" by X and 1/8 " by 1/2 by X for the "Leg" of the "T"
              Bent the 1/2" leg to the angle and then silver soldered the 1" flat bar to the lower portion with some extra beyond the bend .
              Then clamped the upper portion in the vise and then used a ball mill the same diameter as the bushing diameter.
              Then silver solder it to the bushing and then soft solder to get your fillets and when painted, it looks like a casting

              Rich

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              • #22
                Brian,

                One nice thing about going back to steam is that you can run this two-cylinder engine quite slow. That should be possible with an air engine too. If the latter, you could make the cylinders from transparent acrylic, to show the moving parts in motion.
                Allan Ostling

                Phoenix, Arizona

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                • #23
                  The base casting for this engine is only 5/8" deep, and as a consequence, both the flywheel and the crankshaft extend below the bottom of the base. This makes it necessary to use a built up sub base with the engine as designed, to give clearance for the crankshaft and flywheel to rotate. I have kept all of the features of the upper surface, but extended the "skirt" another 1/2" so no sub base is required. The original base casting had sloping sides, partly for ease in casting the part and partly for "aesthetics". I have opted to make the sides vertical for ease of machining. This will have no impact on how the engine functions.
                  Brian Rupnow

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                  • #24
                    The only other radical departure from the "casting style" is the connecting rod. On the left you can see the original "as cast" connecting rod and rod cap. On the right is the same con rod and cap machined from solid. Now remember, I have shown the "machined" con rod with no radius on any of the sharp corners. If you wanted to, for "aesthetics", you could file in any number of nice radii on the machined rod, but other than for "pretty" they aren't really needed.
                    Last edited by brian Rupnow; 09-05-2017, 10:51 AM.
                    Brian Rupnow

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
                      Now remember, I have shown the "machined" con rod with no radius on any of the sharp corners. If you wanted to, for "aesthetics", you could file in any number of nice radii on the machined rod, but other than for "pretty" they aren't really needed.
                      And yet your version has a much "cleaner" look to it due to your use of counterbored caphead screws into threaded holes.
                      Location: Long Island, N.Y.

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                      • #26
                        Re base. The 10V single cylinder comes with an engine base then a pedestal. It can be made with a spoked flywheel which needs more height obviously hence the pedestal or a solid small flywheel for use in a boat when the base will be on wooden bearers as part of the hull to give the clearance. This engine can be used in a model boat about 4ft long or in a 'coffee pot' style narrow gauge loco on 5in rails.
                        There are so many people getting drawings and then learning CAD to make a 3D rendering it is really interesting to see someone complete the circle and start from the 3D to make the model.

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                        • #27
                          There was one more change. The original cylinders had sheet metal lagging around them (and probably insulation between the cylinder body and the lagging.) Since I will be running this engine on compressed air instead of steam, it is much easier for me to do away with the sheet metal lagging and make the outer body of the cylinders the same shape as the lagging used to be. I have also changed out the original bolts and nuts to all #5-40 socket head capscrews. I know this last step with the bolts will have many of the purists squealing in agony, but I like the socket head capscrews much better.
                          Brian Rupnow

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                          • #28
                            Silver solder of "weldments" would certainly be an option. But I do like the approach that Brian is trying with the idea of modifying the parts to something that is doable.

                            I still see making the red legs then joining them to the blue pushrod guides as something tougher to do or that will certainly require some silver soldering.

                            Brian, what about making the blue guide and red legs first as a fully lathe turned conical, cylindrical single piece complete with a flange for the feet? Then in the mill cut away portions that leave you with legs and feet as well as the cut away in the sides of the guides? This would leave the inside and outside of the legs as arched sections. But if the cutaways were done neatly the overall look would be your own. And from what I've read here that's what you're after anyway.

                            Of all the ideas posted so far I also suspect that this would be one of the easiest as well. And certainly the most focused on machining without making it overly complex.
                            Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                            • #29
                              BCRider--I'm glad that you stopped by and had a look. I did seriously consider what you are suggesting, but that would require a length of brass 3 1/2" in diameter. I don't know if you have priced brass lately, but its high enough to cause severe heart palpitations.---Brian
                              Brian Rupnow

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                              • #30
                                So, this is the double Stuart 10V, except ... different standards, different connecting rods, different type and size of bolts, replace the lagging, etc...

                                Well, at this point, why not go full mod and make a 1930's art deco version ? The standards could be silver soldered out of a circular turning, 2 legs, and some square pedestals... The legs could be made from two pieces joined to make a T section with a beautiful sweeping curve ... The "top of the T" would be a bit of flat stock bent the easy way, and the "stalk of the T" would be milled out of a plate to make the curve. Once you are doing that, you could make the base plate with half cylendrical cutouts where it currently has square cutouts... which always collect dirt and dust and oil in the sharp corners. Change the connecting rods so they are organic shapes... beautiful curves everywhere...

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