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  • sarge41
    replied
    If the O.P is interested in a smaller rail than normally found from railroad track, he should look for track used for overhead cranes. It is the same shape, but smaller.

    Sarge41

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  • GNM109
    replied
    Originally posted by digr View Post
    This is mine 139# per yard
    I like the point on your anvil. When I get back to my anvil project, I will sharpen up the end somewhat to make it "pointier".

    Making an anvil from RR track is a nice way to get one, assuming you are not all that flush with cash. There are sellers of RR track on eBay as well, although they are somewhat pricey. A good place to look is at scrap yards. I sure like mine.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    That video is really good sense.

    The several foot long chunk of 6" shafting he mentions at the end will probably be several times better than nearly any anvil you will want to afford, because of the mass behind the surface. A lot like the thing shown in a pic above, and bigger/better than a section of track turned with an end up.

    3"^2 *pi = 28 sq in of section. 12 * 12 = 144. 144/28 ~~= 5 so every 5" of that shafting is 40 lb, same as a square foot of 1" plate. If you have a 3' section, it will be just under 300 lb, a lot of mass behind your work. And a lot cheaper than any 300 lb anvil.

    I paid $25 for a 75 lb anvil, and have never seen one near that cheap since. at 33 cents a lb, 300 lb of steel shafting is a hundred bucks, and you would be hard pressed to find an anvil like my little one for a hundred bucks. The shaft would weigh about 4x more, and all the mass is in line behind the "face".
    Last edited by J Tiers; 11-19-2017, 12:26 AM.

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  • BCRider
    replied
    THIS is the video I mentioned for alternatives to RR track.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    The size anvil relates to the size of work. A small railroad anvil would likely be quite sufficient for someone doing watch-sized work.

    I find the 75 lb anvil a bit small, although it is mounted on a chunk of oak trunk about 24" diameter and 24" or so tall (but not sunk in the ground). Even so, it works. For shop work, I found I needed something in the 20 or 25lb area, and the rail was not putting the mass where I needed it. The block plus the piece of 2" (80 lb) plate does the job for most inside-the-shop uses, which do NOT involve forging.

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  • digr
    replied
    This is mine 139# per yard

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  • GNM109
    replied
    Deleted.
    Last edited by GNM109; 11-20-2017, 10:31 AM.

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  • Glug
    replied
    Originally posted by CCWKen View Post
    Ditto above and even worse for an I-beam. That thing will wake neighbors a block away.
    Worse - it's enough to summon King Kong. From the island.

    And when he arrives, you'd better have a blonde ready.

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  • paul463
    replied
    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    Paul, is that your anvil or did you swipe the picture from some website? I love the adjustable height trick! ! ! But what's with the cable?
    Nope, just a web grab.
    I had a 347lb Hay Budden, but it was just too huge so I sold it. I have a 130lb Peter Wright now... Perfect size for my space.

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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  • ZINOM
    replied
    Thank you all for the valuable input...lots of useful info!!

    John

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  • MattiJ
    replied
    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    If you do use an I beam be sure to find some with fairly narrow and thick caps that is fairly close in shape to a piece of railroad track. Some beams with wide thin caps will be very poor to use as an anvil because the width of the cap will flex and bounce too much.



    If the goal is to actually forge stuff there's some great videos on You Tube which simply use a big solid hunk of offcut steel. A foot long piece of 4x6 rectangular stock, for example, is likely to be a far better anvil than a poorly chosen piece of I beam. In fact I'd suggest that such a hunk of solid steel would be far and away better than even a good piece of I beam.

    And with a piece of solid bar like that if later on he wants a horn off the end or a pritchel hole at the other end or a harder face this is all easy enough to weld onto the core metal.
    Keep an eye open for big machinery parts on scrapyard. 6” roller bearing roll would make decent anvil but you don’t come up with those every day.

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  • BCRider
    replied
    Paul, is that your anvil or did you swipe the picture from some website? I love the adjustable height trick! ! ! But what's with the cable?

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  • paul463
    replied
    Pretty much everything I've read regarding rail for anvils is to stand a good length of it on end so all the mass is directly under the striking surface.


    No experience with it though, I've lucked out a found a few traditional anvils for my use.

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  • bob308
    replied
    I use RR rail but add plates under the head to stop flex and give it weight.

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  • CCWKen
    replied
    Ditto above and even worse for an I-beam. That thing will wake neighbors a block away. Even if you welded gussets it'll ring like a 20" bell. You just can't beat mass. The more, the better. My "chunky block" is 97 pounds. More often than not though, it rests on my press as a spacer so I don't have to move the bed.

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