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Stihl KM94R Clutch Drum Bearing Removal...... Anyone???

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  • Stihl KM94R Clutch Drum Bearing Removal...... Anyone???

    I have a Stihl KM94R motor with a bad clutch drum bearing. The bearing is fitted in the plastic housing, the clutch drum shaft goes through the bearing and is held in place with an external snap ring. The problem is the snap ring is down in the tube hole about 4". I don't have any snap ring pliers that long. I can't see any other way for this to come apart. I can't find any parts breakdown for this either, everything but !!! Anyone ever done one of these before??
    The way I see it the snap ring has to be removed so the clutch drum / shaft assy can be tapped out of the bearing, then the bearing can be pushed out the plastic tube housing.

    This is the best picture I can find for illustration purposes.

    JL...............



    Here is a picture of the drum. You can see the groove on the shaft for the snap ring.
    Last edited by JoeLee; 12-08-2017, 09:17 PM.

  • #2
    You sure the assembly is not installed/removed as a unit into/out of the housing?
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

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    • #3
      I don't know how it can be??? I can't find any other pics either.

      JL.............

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      • #4
        Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
        I don't know how it can be??? I can't find any other pics either.

        JL.............
        Well,I don't know either, because I cannot see where it is in the housing. You said the bearing is removable from the housing. Obviously if it comes out the backside, away from the clutch drum, then it has to be taken apart. If it comes out the other way, then it can be removed intact.

        I suspect that if I had ever designed something that required installing a snap ring 4" down a hole, the factory folks would have come across the parking lot with torches and pitchforks. It's one thing to require special tools to make the job easy (or possible), and it's another to make it difficult to assemble even WITH the special tool.

        Found the manual..... covers KM94 as well as FS 94 and some others.

        https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/sti...manual.465163/

        page 16 covers the clutch. Looks as if the bearing can come out, since they say it can be replaced and it comes out the same side as the clutch drum. No clue of you can take it out with everything on it, but I would offer odds it was put IN that way, so it should come OUT that way, unless there is a snap of some sort that must be moved.

        You can press in the clutch tube/shaft from the clutch side (obviously) as shown p16, so the bearing does not press out away from the clutch drum.
        Last edited by J Tiers; 12-08-2017, 10:33 PM.
        1601

        Keep eye on ball.
        Hashim Khan

        Comment


        • #5
          I added info to the last post, in case you already read it.
          1601

          Keep eye on ball.
          Hashim Khan

          Comment


          • #6
            I have German made Hazet snap ring pliers that would maybe fit down there..
            Not uncommon for folks to design stuff to be worked on with tools made in the same country.

            Comment


            • #7
              And not just "off the shelf but uncommon tools" . Try cars and trucks. Look at the factory service manuals - many "special service tools" to get the job done. My 4WD truck has ear-less clips to retain the axles. Virtually impossible install without the correct uncommon tool. Manual just says "replace clip".

              The service manual (Jerry pointed to it above) is pretty clear about how to replace the clutch. Stihl writes some of the best service manuals in the business, but they could care less if you don't have the right tool. I have a drawer of clip removers and similar. That's why mechanics ( and some here) have huge collections of tools.

              Stihl has hundreds of 100's of special tools covering 50 years of products. They have an entire separate catalog of Stihl manf tools (not std tools). Try putting in the ear-less piston pin clips on some models without the Stihl tool... or pulling the crank seals. lol. Like all such products, Dealers have to buy many of them to get job done.

              Look on page 90 and 91 if you want to service this item more. Stihl lists all the recommended "special tools" ( i.e not available other than from Stihl) you will need. There are work arounds for many, but if you are serious as a Service tech, you will have them. They don't mention the circlip pliers as they consider them "available".

              If you are stuck, take a pair of very long needle nose pliers and grind the tips like a circlip remover. Sometimes you can get ways with two sharp scribes - jamb one in each clip hole and manipulate/pivot accordingly.
              Last edited by lakeside53; 12-09-2017, 01:21 AM.

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              • #8
                Hmm my 70,s and 80,s Stihl O51AVE, I could completely tear down with regular tools and the toolkit tools.
                Now I did not change rods, not sure if you can get them as a seperate part.
                I thought it was fairly easy to work on..

                Comment


                • #9
                  Those were... and big old beasts; but time moved on. Rods? those were integral with cranks and not separately available. By the time you got to the late 80's with 026/34/36/44 etc things were changing.... then as time moved on more and more tools. Today's stuff is way lighter, pollutes way less, revs way higher etc.

                  Compare 1950 fords with working on a new motor
                  Last edited by lakeside53; 12-09-2017, 02:12 AM.

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                  • #10
                    Isn't this kind of a "maker" forum? As in, why not make or modify a tool to do the job...

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                    • #11
                      yep.. modify needle nose pliers. Works.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
                        Well,I don't know either, because I cannot see where it is in the housing. You said the bearing is removable from the housing. Obviously if it comes out the backside, away from the clutch drum, then it has to be taken apart. If it comes out the other way, then it can be removed intact.

                        I suspect that if I had ever designed something that required installing a snap ring 4" down a hole, the factory folks would have come across the parking lot with torches and pitchforks. It's one thing to require special tools to make the job easy (or possible), and it's another to make it difficult to assemble even WITH the special tool.

                        Found the manual..... covers KM94 as well as FS 94 and some others.

                        https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/sti...manual.465163/

                        page 16 covers the clutch. Looks as if the bearing can come out, since they say it can be replaced and it comes out the same side as the clutch drum. No clue of you can take it out with everything on it, but I would offer odds it was put IN that way, so it should come OUT that way, unless there is a snap of some sort that must be moved.

                        You can press in the clutch tube/shaft from the clutch side (obviously) as shown p16, so the bearing does not press out away from the clutch drum.
                        JT, thanks. I looked for over an hour and could not find a detailed manual like that. Page 16 shows everything that yo need to know. However, I don't see where it says you can remove the bearing, only the drum.
                        After cleaning the part up to where I can get a better visual, it looks like the bearing is molded or sealed in the plastic housing. From what I can see through the holes in the drum the bearing has rubber seals that can be removed. That's all I need since the bearing is still good and just needs to be cleaned and re-packed.

                        JL.................

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by lakeside53 View Post
                          yep.. modify needle nose pliers. Works.
                          I have some old ones that I've ground and hacked up for other purposes. If they are long enough, and I think they are I will TIG a pin to each side. As long as I keep the pin short it shouldn't bend. This is probably my quickest way out other than make or buy a long reach snap ring tool.

                          JL...............

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Looking down to page 55 there is more to it. The vibration dampening part of the housing has to be removed and the bearing may be behind that tube. It doesn't say.
                            If that's the case then after removing that tube it will give me a lot more room to access the snap ring. I may be able to get it with the snap ring pliers that I have.
                            I'll have to look deeper into this or call the tech people.

                            JL.............

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              P 16 mentions replacing the bearing if it is bad, so it must be possible.

                              And since you can drive the drum into its place, the bearing must not slip out that way.

                              Other than that, you are likely down to looking at the actual item to see how removal is done. The manual is not much help there, so it must be fairly easy with "normal methods".
                              1601

                              Keep eye on ball.
                              Hashim Khan

                              Comment

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