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1000 pieces, whats the best way to tackle this?

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  • #61
    Best way I've found for getting them off is to not get them on there in the first place. Try some A9 tapping fluid, Air blast, and pecking more.

    I remember seeing a drilling jig someplace. Can't remember where, but it had an air blast rigged to a solenoid valve that automatically blasted air at the drill when the quill was raised. With the advent of CNC, stuff like that isn't really common place anymore, but it's an idea.....

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    • #62
      I tried my weld cleaning brush tonight and the stiff bristles work better than the thinner crimped bristle brush i had before. Polished drills are phenomenal. Havent broke one yet, in 150 parts. No side tearouts either and minimal misalignments. Maybe 1 in 50 need to be hand drilled with a 7/64 to clear a path for the wire.

      Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

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      • #63
        Get some TapMagic for Aluminum. Your life will be easier. A lot of the problems will diminish.

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        • #64
          Higher down pressure tends to make drills go off line.

          Sharp drills cut with less pressure, and so they do tend to stay straighter. It may pay off to sharpen or change the drill more often than you might otherwise think is required.
          Last edited by J Tiers; 01-23-2018, 01:19 PM.
          1601

          Keep eye on ball.
          Hashim Khan

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          • #65
            Originally posted by Puckdropper View Post
            How often are you sharpening the drill bit? I've noticed that mine will often stop cutting just before breaking.
            Accurately sharpening a 1/8" drill can be a challenge without a fairly expensive drill grinder. Even a relatively expensive grinder may not be able to duplicate some of the fancy points put on high end drills.

            Best to buy high quality drills that are properly sharpened from the factory.

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            • #66
              At those sizes yes I agree.
              I built an air powered oiler for my drill press, for tapping.
              Banjo ring around the tap or drill. Adjustable stoke air cylinder, and a reservoir. Small push button Humphreys valve on one of the three drill handles.
              Hit button as you exit hole, change work on the 3 jaw, I had a spinner tri handle mounted about 6 inches from chuck.
              Next piece chucked, tap has oil, tap next piece.
              5/6 NF thread say 3/4 or 5/8 long, through threads, I could do 200 an hour a lot of the time.

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              • #67
                I'd rig up minimum quantity lubrication and coolant-through drill for that. Would probably go without pecking that way. But it seems to work anyway so maybe not worth the cost if the time is more or less "free". But every second saved per part is 16 minutes at the end of the job..

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