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1000 pieces, whats the best way to tackle this?

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  • Sim
    replied
    I'd rig up minimum quantity lubrication and coolant-through drill for that. Would probably go without pecking that way. But it seems to work anyway so maybe not worth the cost if the time is more or less "free". But every second saved per part is 16 minutes at the end of the job..

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  • 754
    replied
    At those sizes yes I agree.
    I built an air powered oiler for my drill press, for tapping.
    Banjo ring around the tap or drill. Adjustable stoke air cylinder, and a reservoir. Small push button Humphreys valve on one of the three drill handles.
    Hit button as you exit hole, change work on the 3 jaw, I had a spinner tri handle mounted about 6 inches from chuck.
    Next piece chucked, tap has oil, tap next piece.
    5/6 NF thread say 3/4 or 5/8 long, through threads, I could do 200 an hour a lot of the time.

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  • DR
    replied
    Originally posted by Puckdropper View Post
    How often are you sharpening the drill bit? I've noticed that mine will often stop cutting just before breaking.
    Accurately sharpening a 1/8" drill can be a challenge without a fairly expensive drill grinder. Even a relatively expensive grinder may not be able to duplicate some of the fancy points put on high end drills.

    Best to buy high quality drills that are properly sharpened from the factory.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Higher down pressure tends to make drills go off line.

    Sharp drills cut with less pressure, and so they do tend to stay straighter. It may pay off to sharpen or change the drill more often than you might otherwise think is required.
    Last edited by J Tiers; 01-23-2018, 01:19 PM.

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  • Toolguy
    replied
    Get some TapMagic for Aluminum. Your life will be easier. A lot of the problems will diminish.

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  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    I tried my weld cleaning brush tonight and the stiff bristles work better than the thinner crimped bristle brush i had before. Polished drills are phenomenal. Havent broke one yet, in 150 parts. No side tearouts either and minimal misalignments. Maybe 1 in 50 need to be hand drilled with a 7/64 to clear a path for the wire.

    Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

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  • Dan Dubeau
    replied
    Best way I've found for getting them off is to not get them on there in the first place. Try some A9 tapping fluid, Air blast, and pecking more.

    I remember seeing a drilling jig someplace. Can't remember where, but it had an air blast rigged to a solenoid valve that automatically blasted air at the drill when the quill was raised. With the advent of CNC, stuff like that isn't really common place anymore, but it's an idea.....

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  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    Surpassed 500 parts drilled tonight, no broken drills in at least the last 100. Spun the shanks a few times and eventually got too chewed to keep using.

    Anyone have tips for clearing stubborn chips from small drill flutes? With short pecking they still seem to re-combine and don't want to come off the drill. I used a wire brush but the brush didn't last. I took to rubbing the plastic brush handle on it and it wasnt effective.

    Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

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  • Magicniner
    replied
    Are you using appropriate techniques for Deep Drilling?
    Peck drilling, near full retraction, adequate lube?

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  • 754
    replied
    Yep , black not made for hipo aluminum drilling..

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  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    I was using some Cleline drills, black oxide that I think are made in Mexico. I tried a cheapo TiN and it went sideways in an instant.

    After running low on the black oxide clelines I bought some Cleline polished drills (USA made) from KBC and it hasn't slipped or broke yet. So far they seem better than the black oxide ones.

    None of them are split points, though.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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  • MattiJ
    replied
    Originally posted by Puckdropper View Post
    How often are you sharpening the drill bit? I've noticed that mine will often stop cutting just before breaking.
    You should have asked how often do you change your drill bit (1/8" drill and looong hole in alu)
    In my limited experience split-point drill needs less axial thrust and is less prone to make curved holes thanks to reduced thrust.

    Matt: Did you try some of the better drills already or still going by common cheap ones?
    118 degree split point in polished finish from real drill maker (ie. Dormer-Sandvik, Guhring, OSG, YG-1, Walter-Titex) would be still my choice if not something deep hole specific.
    Last edited by MattiJ; 01-21-2018, 04:12 AM.

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  • Puckdropper
    replied
    How often are you sharpening the drill bit? I've noticed that mine will often stop cutting just before breaking.

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  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan_the_Chemist View Post
    It's been nearly a month... how did this job turn out ???
    Work in progress. Christmas spirit kept me from doing too many over the break, and now the First robotics season is underway, and with my day job and cooking and keeping my 7 month old dog happy in the middle of winter has held it back.

    I've got about 70 finished parts and about 300 drilled and waiting to be turned. I can drill about 25 per hour now so when I can find a moment I take a swing at them. The mill is right under the bedroom so I can't work after my wife goes to bed at 9.

    Ive had about 20 fail from various issues. Broken drill bits in the part, side popouts, sometimes the bits wander in opposite directions and get zero overlap. Its gotten better now with the jaws so I only get a failure every 40 or so, usually a sudden drill failure. Sometimes they break for no apparent reason at only .5-.75 depth. Odd stuff.

    Thanks for asking.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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  • Dan_the_Chemist
    replied
    It's been nearly a month... how did this job turn out ???

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