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Stator support mounting in the lathe

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  • Stator support mounting in the lathe

    How would you guys mount this stat or support in the 4 jaw chuck to face the part that has writing on it, without marring the bearing surface?

  • #2
    Do you have a 3 jaw with soft jaws? 4 jaws are "ok", but soft-jaws get to dead nuts on every time.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by lakeside53 View Post
      go you have soft jaws?
      no, and I will google that to see what that is

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      • #4
        2 piece jaws that you pre-load and cut to size. You an also put a brass shim between each jaw and the work in a 4 jaw.

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        • #5
          no I dont have those, and I don't have a 3 jaw, only a 4 jaw chuck.

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          • #6
            not sure from which side you want to face the flange, why and to what precision, but you can always do stuff like that by grabing the bearing. if spline has no centre, make a conical addapter for live center, mine has 60 and 90°, i use it a lot.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dian View Post
              not sure from which side you want to face the flange, why and to what precision, but you can always do stuff like that by grabing the bearing. if spline has no centre, make a conical addapter for live center, mine has 60't and 90°, i use it a lot.
              I want to face the side with x10 on it, but I don't want to mar the bearing surface

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              • #8
                Put a brass or whatever shim on each jaw. Done.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by lakeside53 View Post
                  Put a brass or whatever shim on each jaw. Done.
                  It' far easier to cut a strip of brass long enough to wrap all the way around the part you're grabbing than to
                  try and hold 4 individual pcs. in the jaws as you're trying to tighten them up. Just be aware that even with
                  brass shims between the part and the jaws it's possible to leave a mark--don't go nuts when tightening things
                  up. And, in reality, small marks left by chuck jaws can be easily--and carefully--filed out. In relation to the
                  total surface area of the shaft the minimal disruption to the surface won't affect how the bearing fits...
                  Keith
                  __________________________
                  Just one project too many--that's what finally got him...

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                  • #10
                    Most of the time when I face off Pump stators for the 46/ 48 Chrysler’s, Ill grab it on top off the ring lands. You don’t have to go crazy tight on the jaws. You’re only going to take some real light facing cuts to clean up the pump gear side.
                    If you leave some marks from the jaws, you can flip the part & hold onto the shaft & clean off any marks with some 3m pad.
                    Same way with most all Transmission pumps.

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                    • #11
                      Depending how aggressive "teeth" you have in your 4-jaw chuck:

                      Office paper
                      Craft paper
                      Beer can
                      Brass or soft copper plate 0.1 to 1mm thick

                      So you want to take a facing cut on that one so you might need to set it to run true by knocking around with a soft mallet or lead hammer with half-way tightened chuck. For this purpose I would select a bit thicker soft alu/brass/copper sheet. Or perfect excuse to make these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=W7jZO3ZTd0Q

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                      • #12
                        Yep, brass shim stock on the jaws or find three or four equal size pins to lay into the splines. I've dressed a lot of triple-gear faces that way.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by gambler View Post
                          How would you guys mount this stat or support in the 4 jaw chuck to face the part that has writing on it, without marring the bearing surface?
                          1) The ID of the lip at the end opposite the splines and 2) the reduced section of the shaft between the flange face and the spline end both appear to be non-critical surfaces with enough substance that they could be used to fixture the part for facing.

                          Consider either gripping the ID directly or coming up with an expanding arbor to mount inside the end opposite the spline.

                          While I previously mentioned the reduced section of the shaft with the idea of supporting it with a steady, is there any reason why the spline end cannot be supported internally by a center mounted in the tailstock?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by EddyCurr View Post
                            ... or coming up with an expanding arbor to mount inside ...
                            "expanding arbor"

                            To increase results returned, also research "expanding mandrel".

                            (For entertainment, look back at explanations given about usage, similarities and differences between "arbor" and "mandrel".)

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by philco View Post
                              Most of the time when I face off Pump stators for the 46/ 48 Chrysler’s, Ill grab it on top off the ring lands. You don’t have to go crazy tight on the jaws. You’re only going to take some real light facing cuts to clean up the pump gear side.
                              If you leave some marks from the jaws, you can flip the part & hold onto the shaft & clean off any marks with some 3m pad.
                              Same way with most all Transmission pumps.
                              thats a good idea, but my jaws don't reach that far, those lands are the only non critical area too.(the least anyway).

                              the mandrel idea has me thinking, and yes its a very light cut. I had thought about the brass shims but the jaws still marked another stator I mounted as a test. I had thought about a stainless hose clamp to take the load and not leave marks. I appreciate the suggestions gentlemen.

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