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Brian does Ridders flame eater

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  • I bet his problem with the propane is having the tube too close height wise to the port. If the flame was starting below the port, it might not blow out. But it might still, because the "burner" is different from a wick. Might need a "flame holder" shield to keep from having such an easy blow-out.

    The way they are timed, they do not open until they probably hae some compression, they seem to "pop" when the valve opens, as if there is at least some pressure.
    CNC machines only go through the motions

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    • Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1Tpgc8LwiU

      The lever on the side turns the tank moving the wick closer and down, or farther away and up

      I've watched that video a few times and this is the first time I noticed the washers spacing the cylinder away from the crank support some.
      Andy

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      • No joy--I hunted around on my shelf of 10,000 things and found a small unopened can of Methyl Hydrate. This gives a much larger, hotter flame that doesn't blow out. Engine likes it, tries to run, but can't quite get there. I tried a little WD40 on the bearings, which does make it spin more freely, but it won't keep running. There really isn't anything on this engine to adjust, other than moving the alcohol reservoir around to reposition the flame. I have one more thing to try, and then I guess if it doesn't run I will try a graphite piston and valve.
        Brian Rupnow
        Design engineer
        Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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        • Allright!!!--I've done everything that I know how to do, and the engine doesn't run. It is machined to spec, it turns over freely, and I have tried 95% alcohol as fuel. There isn't really anything more to try. So---I just ordered a one foot length of machinable graphite from some outfit in Illinois. I'm a bit disappointed, but the fat lady hasn't sang yet.
          Brian Rupnow
          Design engineer
          Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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          • You do such nice work. It must be disappointing when it fails to fire up. I noticed that you had a morning post and hoped that you had a video of it running.
            At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

            Location: SF East Bay.

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            • Just about every drug store sells 99% isopropyl alcohol, which burns just fine.

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              • I'm just thinking out loud again. You have done everything you can on the hot side, maybe there is something you can do to help the cylinder barrel cool better.
                Even something temporary to see if you can get it to run.
                Larry - west coast of Canada

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                • Danlb--I always expect the engines I build will run---Right up to the point where they won't. Oh, eventually they all run but I like it most when they run without a lot of screwing around.
                  Brian Rupnow
                  Design engineer
                  Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                  • Here is a video which shows how "free wheeling" the mechanism is.
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSu-...ature=youtu.be
                    Brian Rupnow
                    Design engineer
                    Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                    • Brian it certainly seems free of any friction or binding and spins along very smoothly.
                      I'm sure you have tried various position of the burner's flame to port configurations. Have you tried a small flame from propane torch or perhaps a small butane torch?

                      I'm just thinking out loud here but maybe it is too free running? As in not enough of a seal between piston and cylinder. Maybe a very small quantity of a very lightweight oil there may be of help?
                      You may have already tried this and probably other things but I thought I'd toss it out there as food for thought.
                      Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                      Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                      Location: British Columbia

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                      • Did you notice in the one video as mentioned above, that he had to make the cylinder bigger at ~~24mm because the original smaller size was not working?

                        I would think 0.875" (22mm) would be good enough.

                        His bronze cylinder should suck away heat much faster than the SS cylinder, that could contribute somewhat if the cooling of hot air is an issue.

                        I had thought you had run the thing with a jury-rig flame, but looking back, I do not see that. So an original material etc issue is still possible.

                        Could it be that the "timing" is wrong? Specifically the piston valve opening? If you are getting too much "compression" it might not be able to get over that well.
                        Last edited by J Tiers; 03-02-2018, 04:27 PM.
                        CNC machines only go through the motions

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                        • My cylinder bore is .875".There isn't any real "compression" to speak of. The valve is free to open as the piston approaches top dead center until the last 4 mm of travel, at which point the piston actually contacts the valve and forces it open. It's pretty hard to get the timing wrong, as the timing is determined by the piston either contacting the valve to move it or contacting the drawbar at bottom dead center to move the valve.
                          Brian Rupnow
                          Design engineer
                          Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                          • If not compression what about suction? If you remove the valve rod and hold the valve closed does it show decently low leakage?

                            The bit about the stainless steel being a poor heat conductor may be an avenue to explore as well. Although in that case I'd expect it to work at first while the steel is still a good heat sink. But then as the liner warms up and the heat does not conduct well out to the fins that the inner wall warmth could cause it to run down. But you say you're not even getting it to run at all?
                            Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                            • After watching Brians video I just had to watch more. This one came up which is a similar design but with a glass cylinder. I don't think the cylinder material has much to do with if they run. But one thing to note is how far he has the wick pulled out (big flame) and how saturated the intake port is with fire. In many videos it seems people try to get the blue part of the flame at the intake port.

                              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDSY6kw4lkQ



                              Sorry but I just had to share this one, I could listen to this one run for quite some time.

                              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rV9rhqXSnu0
                              Andy

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                              • or this one.....

                                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCy-BaQqzbc
                                CNC machines only go through the motions

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