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Brian does Ridders flame eater

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  • #31
    Hi,

    Ridder's plans call for drilling that setscrew hole at a 45deg angle in the hub. I didn't see doing that either and did the same as you, and drilled straight through the flywheel. It kind of detracts from the look of the rim a bit, but it's much easier to do. I think maybe I should make a plug to fill the hole.
    If you think you understand what is going on, you haven't been paying attention.

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    • #32
      Guess I should pay more attention, its been on every rendering and blueprint posted.

      Besides following the plans is there a reason not to just make the flywheel and shaft out of just a single piece of material?
      Andy

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      • #33
        VOILA!!! We have a base for our flame eater engine. I was supposed to go across town today to my "real job" but got a last minute reprieve by email. I hope my bearings come in today.
        Brian Rupnow
        Design engineer
        Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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        • #34
          Originally posted by vpt View Post
          Guess I should pay more attention, its been on every rendering and blueprint posted.

          Besides following the plans is there a reason not to just make the flywheel and shaft out of just a single piece of material?
          Brass is heavy, and very pretty, but you really don't want it for a shaft. It doesn't stand up to that type of use particularly well. Also, brass costs a fortune, and you don't want to be buying a great big lump of it to turn into chips to incorporate the shaft into the flywheel.
          Brian Rupnow
          Design engineer
          Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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          • #35
            In the above picture you can see the chatter marks made by my parting off tool when cutting the fins. Other than a narrow file, does anybody have a better way to get rid of these chatter marks?
            Brian Rupnow
            Design engineer
            Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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            • #36
              Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
              In the above picture you can see the chatter marks made by my parting off tool when cutting the fins. Other than a narrow file, does anybody have a better way to get rid of these chatter marks?
              I use a 1.0 strip of emery folded in a "U"..
              If needed, fold it over a backer, like a paint stick for instance.

              Sid

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              • #37
                Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
                In the above picture you can see the chatter marks made by my parting off tool when cutting the fins. Other than a narrow file, does anybody have a better way to get rid of these chatter marks?
                Originally posted by sid pileski View Post
                I use a 1.0 strip of emery folded in a "U"..
                If needed, fold it over a backer, like a paint stick for instance.

                Sid

                This will work, a popsicle stick comes to mind. A small file as you mentioned would also serve well.
                I would be inclined to use a very narrow HSS tool bit ground to simulate a parting tool. I have several like this ground from either a 3/8" or 1/2" blank ground down to about a .030" width that I use for O-ring grooves or fine detail work much like what you are doing.

                My only concern is that being 316ss it may now be work hardened.
                Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                Location: British Columbia

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                • #38
                  Leave them alone, look pretty and will add to the surface area for heat transfer.

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                  • #39
                    I spent the lions share of today making a crankshaft, a crank throw and con-rod big end pin. I called about my bearings but they won't be in until tomorrow. I also drilled the 1/8" hole for the valve rod full length of the cylinder---You can see a 1/8" piece of cold rolled setting in the hole.
                    Brian Rupnow
                    Design engineer
                    Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                    • #40
                      Did you braze the crank disk to the shaft?

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                      • #41
                        No--Silver solder
                        Last edited by brian Rupnow; 02-20-2018, 07:25 PM.
                        Brian Rupnow
                        Design engineer
                        Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
                          I spent the lions share of today making a crankshaft, a crank throw and con-rod big end pin. I called about my bearings but they won't be in until tomorrow. I also drilled the 1/8" hole for the valve rod full length of the cylinder---You can see a 1/8" piece of cold rolled setting in the hole.
                          With the "low power" available from these engines, doesn't running that rod through a hole cause some additional frictional losses?? It's bound to rub a bit isn't it?
                          ...lew...

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                          • #43
                            It probably does. Lew, but I just watched a dozen videos of this engine all built by different people on Jan Ridders website, and they all ran with the rod in the same place.---Brian
                            Brian Rupnow
                            Design engineer
                            Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
                              No--Silver solder
                              Yikes!

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                              • #45
                                Why Yikes? The heat from an alcohol burner isn't going to melt silver solder.
                                Brian Rupnow
                                Design engineer
                                Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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