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Brian does Ridders flame eater

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    My cylinder bore is .875".There isn't any real "compression" to speak of. The valve is free to open as the piston approaches top dead center until the last 4 mm of travel, at which point the piston actually contacts the valve and forces it open. It's pretty hard to get the timing wrong, as the timing is determined by the piston either contacting the valve to move it or contacting the drawbar at bottom dead center to move the valve.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Did you notice in the one video as mentioned above, that he had to make the cylinder bigger at ~~24mm because the original smaller size was not working?

    I would think 0.875" (22mm) would be good enough.

    His bronze cylinder should suck away heat much faster than the SS cylinder, that could contribute somewhat if the cooling of hot air is an issue.

    I had thought you had run the thing with a jury-rig flame, but looking back, I do not see that. So an original material etc issue is still possible.

    Could it be that the "timing" is wrong? Specifically the piston valve opening? If you are getting too much "compression" it might not be able to get over that well.
    Last edited by J Tiers; 03-02-2018, 05:27 PM.

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  • Willy
    replied
    Brian it certainly seems free of any friction or binding and spins along very smoothly.
    I'm sure you have tried various position of the burner's flame to port configurations. Have you tried a small flame from propane torch or perhaps a small butane torch?

    I'm just thinking out loud here but maybe it is too free running? As in not enough of a seal between piston and cylinder. Maybe a very small quantity of a very lightweight oil there may be of help?
    You may have already tried this and probably other things but I thought I'd toss it out there as food for thought.

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    Here is a video which shows how "free wheeling" the mechanism is.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSu-...ature=youtu.be

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    Danlb--I always expect the engines I build will run---Right up to the point where they won't. Oh, eventually they all run but I like it most when they run without a lot of screwing around.

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  • Cuttings
    replied
    I'm just thinking out loud again. You have done everything you can on the hot side, maybe there is something you can do to help the cylinder barrel cool better.
    Even something temporary to see if you can get it to run.

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  • cameron
    replied
    Just about every drug store sells 99% isopropyl alcohol, which burns just fine.

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  • danlb
    replied
    You do such nice work. It must be disappointing when it fails to fire up. I noticed that you had a morning post and hoped that you had a video of it running.

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    Allright!!!--I've done everything that I know how to do, and the engine doesn't run. It is machined to spec, it turns over freely, and I have tried 95% alcohol as fuel. There isn't really anything more to try. So---I just ordered a one foot length of machinable graphite from some outfit in Illinois. I'm a bit disappointed, but the fat lady hasn't sang yet.

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    No joy--I hunted around on my shelf of 10,000 things and found a small unopened can of Methyl Hydrate. This gives a much larger, hotter flame that doesn't blow out. Engine likes it, tries to run, but can't quite get there. I tried a little WD40 on the bearings, which does make it spin more freely, but it won't keep running. There really isn't anything on this engine to adjust, other than moving the alcohol reservoir around to reposition the flame. I have one more thing to try, and then I guess if it doesn't run I will try a graphite piston and valve.

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  • vpt
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1Tpgc8LwiU

    The lever on the side turns the tank moving the wick closer and down, or farther away and up

    I've watched that video a few times and this is the first time I noticed the washers spacing the cylinder away from the crank support some.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    I bet his problem with the propane is having the tube too close height wise to the port. If the flame was starting below the port, it might not blow out. But it might still, because the "burner" is different from a wick. Might need a "flame holder" shield to keep from having such an easy blow-out.

    The way they are timed, they do not open until they probably hae some compression, they seem to "pop" when the valve opens, as if there is at least some pressure.

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  • Willy
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    Here is another video with an explanation of what he did and why....and what did NOT work, along with his idea of why.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpLDDccROx4

    .............
    ....................
    Wow great link, lots of insight into what it takes to make one run. I watched part 2 as well, after the propane conversion.
    These are definitely finicky little rascals aren't they?.
    Good info.

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  • Willy
    replied
    Originally posted by Jon Heron View Post
    You can get methyl hydrate (methanol) at Canadian tire Brian, its sold as gas line antifreeze.
    Cheers,
    Jon
    Yup, I always get it there too,. Ten Canadian Pesos for a big jug of 99.9% pure methanol.
    I use it a lot for gas line antifreeze in gasoline powered equipment that operates in snow dust conditions and for truck air system de-icing if the air dryer has been neglected.

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  • Cuttings
    replied
    Brian - If you are having trouble finding the alcohol go to a Home Hardware, that is where I found a 500 ml bottle of Methyl Hydrate for a good price. They also had fireplace fuel which I believe is the 95% stuff, but only in 1 gallon containers at a substantial price. At about a teaspoon or two a fill this will run my sterling for a great number of runs.

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