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Brian does Ridders flame eater
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And Hey presto!! We have a finished tank. Now all I need is my wick. Tomorrow I will counterbore the top of the base for a rare earth magnet and J.B. Weld it into place, so that when I get the tank positioned properly it won't bounce around when the engine is running.--And now you know how I've spent my day.
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One more silver soldered joint and some polishing and we should have a finished tank.
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Alcohol tank--take-2--and that finishes the steel part of the tank. Next up will be the brass tank top, screw on lid, and wick holder.
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I had some "real" work at my office across town today, but before I went I degreased/de-oiled the engine and tried firing it with my propane torch. It didn't take off and run on it's own, but it did give some very heartening effort. It tried to run, which thrilled me all to pieces, but then I had to leave and go earn some money.
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Where is Oldtiffie when we need him? I don't think this wiki article has yet been posted: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_engine
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Originally posted by vpt View PostExciting video Brian! Won't be long now!
After your video this one popped up and I just had to watch. 3:50ish mark the guy uses a torch to power the motor for awhile. Nice trick for testing stuff I think.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1Tpgc8LwiU
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VPT--Thank you for that. I didn't know that I could do that.---Brian
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Exciting video Brian! Won't be long now!
After your video this one popped up and I just had to watch. 3:50ish mark the guy uses a torch to power the motor for awhile. Nice trick for testing stuff I think.
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Just for a test, fire up the propane torch! I use it on my atmospheric engine all the time for quick demo. Go for it OD!
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Oil lamp wicks, kero lantern and heater wicks are made from natural fibers. Cotton sash cord, jute cordage or even strips of cotton tea towel braided together would work.
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Hi Brian
Did you check Home Hardware? I have bought 5 mm lamp wick from them in the past. Perhaps they may have some thing you can manipulate to serve your purpose.
Bert
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Jan Ridders plans show a very nice little alcohol burner fabricated by soldering a number of pieces of 1 mm and 2 mm thick brass together. I happen to have a short piece of 1 1/2" square mild steel here that is just long enough to form the tank body and bottom plate from, and I can solder a separate piece of brass to the top to make a burner that will do for me. Since the tank body will then be made of steel, I can put a magnet size counterbore in the top of the engines aluminum baseplate and epoxy a strong magnet in place. That will prevent the tank from hopping around while the engine is running. (I'm an optimist.)
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Before I build the alcohol burner, I have to source a wick. The diameter of the metal barrel that comes out of the top of the burner depends on what wick you use. On Jan Ridders plans the inside diameter of this pipe is 7 mm which is just a bit larger than 1/4". The only wick I can buy in Barrie is for Tiki torches and is 1/2" diameter. I just ordered a ten foot length of 1/4" wick from Ebay, and I think its coming from China---they give mid March as a delivery date. This doesn't make me overly happy, but I don't seem to have a lot of options. I may just go ahead and make the alcohol burner and leave the pipe solid, then drill it out to size when I have the wick here in my hands.
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Okay--the hour is up, and I just pulled the set-up apart. The engine turns amazingly free now compared to what it did before running it in. Won't have much to report now until I get the alcohol burner built.
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