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  • #16
    Originally posted by dalee100 View Post
    Hi,

    ... I consider the arbors to be cheap disposable wear items and not worth repairing.

    Loctite is also viable for the frugal among us, but I'm not really fond of the idea myself.
    The whole drill press is likely not worth saving.... Loctite works. The arbor isn't worth it, but it can be a pain to remove, and that changes what you may want to do.
    CNC machines only go through the motions

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    • #17
      I would never use Loctite but as a last resort I have heard that the old timers smoothed by hand with fine emery cloth then applied a couple of cigarette papers not overlapping and then pressed it down no mallets or hammers required. It might still work and would be worth a final try. Al
      Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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      • #18
        Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
        The whole drill press is likely not worth saving.... Loctite works. The arbor isn't worth it, but it can be a pain to remove, and that changes what you may want to do.
        Hi,

        Yeah, don't know the condition of the rest of the machine. But it is an OK machine if the spindle bearings aren't ruined also. As I said, no cache, but it will shoot holes in steel if needed. Knocking out the arbor isn't particularly difficult. I've had to replace many damaged ones over the years. Operators can be quite hard on them, with dropping and banging them around.

        Now that you mention it Alistair, I too have been told the same thing by oldtimers. Cigarette papers are the cause and cure of many shop problems.............

        I have also simply opened the jaws up to below the chuck face and applied a sharp rap or two, (firmly - not hammer-of-god hits), with a hammer also. Whilst waiting for a new arbor to arrive in the mail.
        If you think you understand what is going on, you haven't been paying attention.

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        • #19
          So I got the reamer set off of amazon for 28 bucks (looks like the same Chinese set but better than waiting for April lol).

          So as to how to actually use these things... I have felt up inside the spindle and it is not too too bad. However the keyway for the tang is definitely rounded. Is it worth running the rough reamer up there to cut the taper higher, or will that thin it out too much at the bottom? If the keyway is not a big deal (I know it is not used to drive the shaft) then I can just use the finisher.

          Either way, is it as simple as getting some thread cutting oil and turning the reamer? I have seen a few how-do videos and it seems no harder than that. Some say to do a half turn the in reverse to polish it out.

          Finally, do I need to bang out the spindle from the quill before doing anything? I worry a bit about getting metal shavings and slurry inside bearings, but I am not sure how much gunk gets generated. I have only seen videos of guys doing it on lathes so any info appreciated

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          • #20
            If you don't want to invest in a new chuck, or at least a new arbour, then polish out the raised burrs with fine emery while its running in the lathe. Read the recent thread on safety before getting your fingers in this.

            Use the finish reamer, well oiled, just push it up inside the taper socket, and rotate gently with a tap wrench. Spindle stationary, not under power. You should only need a couple of turns to get rid of the raised metal. Do not turn in reverse, thats a sure way to dull the reamer. Then coat the arbour lightly with blue (its Stuart's Micrometer Blue in the UK, don't know what its called in the US), and see if it contacts over the whole length.
            Report back when you get that far!
            'It may not always be the best policy to do what is best technically, but those responsible for policy can never form a right judgement without knowledge of what is right technically' - 'Dutch' Kindelberger

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Richard P Wilson View Post
              If you don't want to invest in a new chuck, or at least a new arbour, then polish out the raised burrs with fine emery while its running in the lathe. Read the recent thread on safety before getting your fingers in this.

              Use the finish reamer, well oiled, just push it up inside the taper socket, and rotate gently with a tap wrench. Spindle stationary, not under power. You should only need a couple of turns to get rid of the raised metal. Do not turn in reverse, thats a sure way to dull the reamer. Then coat the arbour lightly with blue (its Stuart's Micrometer Blue in the UK, don't know what its called in the US), and see if it contacts over the whole length.
              Report back when you get that far!
              thanks! I ended up sourcing a new chuck/arbor hence why I left that part out (I figure insertion is a no-brainer). The quill is out at the moment so I assume no need to disassemble further if I could have just done it with it installed. I'll take care and try to keep gunk out though.

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              • #22
                From the two times that I've used an MT2 reamer you're going to find that it does not take all that much axial pressure to establish a good cutting action. So go light or it'll cut in too deep and lock on you. And do it by hand, not under power or bad things will happen.

                The reamer will do a lot to self center itself but it's still good to try as best you can to equalize the pressure on the arms of the tap wrench used to turn it in.

                And just in case it needs reinforcing do NOT turn the reamer backwards... ever.... not even a little. Even as you enter and exit the cut keep it turning forwards while engaging and especially while with drawing it. And for the withdrawal ease up a little at a time so the chip load reduces and the last half turn or so is done with almost no pressure and almost no cutting. That will be your "polishing" of the surface.

                When I tested some MT3 tool holders for my old mill/drill I ran a couple of lines of felt marker along the taper and then put it lightly into the socket and turned it a little back and forth. This scuffed the marker away on the taper so I could see where the pressure contact points occurred. Doing the same thing for this sort of use might be easier to do and clean up than using the transfer blue considering the small size of an MT2 socket.
                Last edited by BCRider; 03-05-2018, 04:21 PM.
                Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                • #23
                  So finally laid everything out and got to work. Since the grooves seemed (by finger feel at least) to be beyond simply refinishing - but mostly because I wanted to play around w/ it) I got the cutting reamer up in there pretty good to get past the part where it rounded. Suffice to say it worked better than expected as I found myself a good 1/8-1/4" above my start point. I don't have a big enough tap wrench so I used a stubby ratchet and a 12pt socket, but kept force mostly in the middle. Found I could give a little nudge and it cut up pretty well. Ran the finishing reamer up to clean it up. It still has some internal groove below the surface of the face but I guess nothing I can do about that. Gave it a flush out w/ oil and cleaned the hole w/ acetone, reassembled w/ the new arbor and chuck, and lo and behold it has not fallen out yet.

                  I tried the prussian blue but I can't say that I found anything too signifcant. There were definitely spots where it wasn't contacting but it looked like it transferred to most of the surface area (hard to see in such a little hole). But again, hasn't fallen out yet I don't have a dial indicator but it seemed to drill pretty straight, into wood at least. I am not building space shuttles so I should be fine

                  Thanks for all the advice! I'll report back if I have a significant failure... but for now ~$50 invested in a $200+ DP looks like money well spent!

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                  • #24
                    Hi,

                    Excellent! You have now rebuilt your first machine tool!

                    For an inexpensive machine, it should give you decent service. I have no complaints about mine and I use it quite a bit in steel up to 1" sized holes.
                    If you think you understand what is going on, you haven't been paying attention.

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