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Unhardening chainsaw chain

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  • Alan Smith
    replied
    Cheers. That's a great start. I see the wheels are made specifically for the model of grinder that I have. Thanks.

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  • lakeside53
    replied
    Originally posted by Alan Smith View Post
    Lakeside53, where do you get your diamond wheel from? I use an Oregon chain grinding set up, mostly for converting to ripping chains. I quite like the idea of giving a diamond wheel a try.
    Heck. no idea; somewhere online. Had the same wheel on Stihl sharpener for over 10 years. Mine is true diamond and the segmented type. CBN works great also.

    Here's one source https://www.diamondwheelinc.com/chain-saw-wheels.html


    Baileys offering : http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsa...adius-Edge.axd

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  • lakeside53
    replied
    They only have to last 3 minutes at most! Different world.

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  • old mart
    replied
    I suspect that people dressing new chains for competition use do so to get faster cutting at the expense of edge life.

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  • Alan Smith
    replied
    Lakeside53, where do you get your diamond wheel from? I use an Oregon chain grinding set up, mostly for converting to ripping chains. I quite like the idea of giving a diamond wheel a try.

    Leave a comment:


  • lakeside53
    replied
    In a past life I worked in a saw shop and sharpened many thousands of chains, everything from rusted crap and "homeowner butchered" to custom racing and milling chains.
    For machine sharpening, Diamond is the way to go.. I even have a diamond wheel on my chain sharpener at home. Not expensive, no profile questions, cuts beautifully. oh... works great for occasional work in the machine shop too

    For hand filing (I do that a lot in the field and for touch up) get high end files - I personally like Stihl branded files, and toss them when dull or unable to be cleaned out. They don't last long and nothing like a dull file to make life miserable.

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  • alanganes
    replied
    On a whim I bought a diamond chain file. It was a cheap one, under 10 bucks I think. It actually works quite well for touch ups. If the thing is really dull, I use a regular decent quality file.

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  • Black Forest
    replied
    A few years ago I built a machine to sharpen my saw chains automatically. Just put the chain on the machine and hit the start button. 2 or 3 minutes later chain is done. It operates with pneumatic cylinders and rotary actuators. Control is with a Siemens Logo PLC. It uses a grinder for the sharpening but I have on the drawing board a mechanism to use files but just never got to it.

    The problem with grinders is when you don't dress the stone correctly to the right curve. It makes it hard to hand dress the chain in the forest. That is why a lot of the pro's argue against using a grinder to sharpen chains. If the grinder is not set up correctly it changes the profile of the teeth and so in the field you have to file much more to bring the chain back to spec. therefore shortening the life of the chain. It is also important to reverse the rotation of the grinding stone for every other tooth. Also to grind/file from the short side to the long side of the cutting edge so the burr is on the outside. If you don't reverse the wheel you will get a lop sided cut. In the forest I have a small specialty vice that pounds into a log that enables me to clamp the sword so I can dress the chain. The time taken to keep the chain in tip top shape is saved in productivity. I see lots of people using the wrong diameter round file to sharpen their chains. These are the people that usually say a chain never cuts as good as when brand new. That is just not so. If it were the guys that cut competitively wouldn't be dressing their new chains before they use them in a competition, but they do!
    Last edited by Black Forest; 03-10-2018, 05:25 AM.

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  • Old Time
    replied
    Something to keep in mind, good chain has the outer surface of the teeth hard chromed. Hit a rock or nail and it curls the chrome over the cutting edge. Then the file grabs and doesn't do anything when you try to file it.

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  • michigan doug
    replied
    A good file will do it, and if it won't it's time for a new chain.

    I filed a lot. On a whim, I tried the cheapo Harbor Fright electric sharpener.....

    Surprisingly effective, and so much faster I never went back to files.

    I see they are $30 now: https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ner-61613.html



    You know, the files aren't free, and don't last forever. So really, the electric jobie is only 25 dollars, and a wheel lasts me at least 2 years.

    We heat primarily with wood, so my saw gets its exercise.

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  • A.K. Boomer
    replied
    just file the ones you can - if the others are just a few it really won't matter - plus if their that godamn hard then I would think their not all that dull yet lol

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  • JRouche
    replied
    I am with the rest of you, BF to be on point. I am a sort of file horder. I have too many to need. What is nice about my affliction is I have used some very nice files, in every shape.

    BF said a specific file for saw chains. That is correct. JR

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  • BCRider
    replied
    If you don't think that they qualify as cheap then I'd talk to the supplier or maker and tell them of what you've found. It sure doesn't sound right to me.

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  • Abner
    replied
    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    Ah.... That's different. So the cheapest chains you could find? I'm not judging. Hell, I'm as likely as any to buy the lower cost option.

    But I'm going to guess that a tooth or two did not get correctly tempered back to allow it to be tough yet still soft enough to sharpen. Or there's some manner of hard spot or inclusion in the metal that is harder than it should be. If you were to mark those teeth you could take a propane torch on low to them and bring them to a near blue color to see if it helps. But you'll need to clean the chain really well first. Bar oil on them would hide the true color. And if/when you degrease them don't use brake cleaner then hit them with a torch. Same reason not to use brake cleaner around anything being welded.

    I've used some chainsaws belonging to my clubs and other folks on and off and only recently bought a nice small Stihl on sale. I've not run into this issue myself but I think it's a good reason for buying a slightly better name brand from here on in.
    Hm, never thought I was a cheap. I buy 100' spools of OREGON 3/8 full chisel skip chain and make my own loops for my three Stihl chainsaws.

    I will try the torch trick. Or toss them out.

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  • 754
    replied
    Sometimes a few teeth get Rocked, they flatten and maybe curl slightly.
    Now the file does not fit properly in the radius, until the high portion of the burr comes off. Then it will again feel likevtye other teeth. I always wipedvtge file often against my chaps or glove to get the filings off.

    You will learn, it takes practice.. and Then and Only Then.. you can sing the Lumberjack Song honestly.....
    ...a lot of posers sing it..

    Leave a comment:

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