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  • gasket hole puncher?

    I searched for someone posting their make on a gasket hole puncher for the heavy paper variety for my rebuild of a IHC 300U which has a broken shifting fork (4th & 5th gears). The parts people on the internet seem to be stuck on the 105$ price so Being the financial conservative person I am I have purchased a goodly amount of the 20" wide stuff the local Napa parts had on stock.
    I was wondering about using a grade 8 bolt for material as that should be hard enough for a quick and dirty punch and just spin and drill it out on the lathe. looks to be about 24 3/8" holes so its not a production lasting thing. Of course I would welcome suggestions, I usually use a small ball peen hammer to mark and partially punch these things but that leaves them kind or raggedy looking so---??

  • #2
    Check the Bay. Lots of options under $20. Hardly worth making one.

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    • #3
      Google "leather punch". They are similar to a pair of pliers with the anvil on one jaw and a number of different size punches on a merry-go-round on the other jaw. They make great gasket punches with a variety of different size punches available and cost under $20.00
      Brian Rupnow
      Design engineer
      Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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      • #4
        Yes, Wad punch sets cost little:
        https://www.amazon.com/wad-punch/s?i...%3Awad%20punch

        One time I made a wad punch out of old water pipe with internal and external "V"
        It did the job , but cracked the point of the vee off when the punch hit the wood backing.

        I have seen old time mechanics mark out the gasket (eg water pump)_
        with a ball peen hammer as you mention , then do the bolt holes wiith a wad punch
        and lastly cut out the ouline and big hole with scissors.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by wombat2go View Post
          Yes, Wad punch sets cost little:
          https://www.amazon.com/wad-punch/s?i...%3Awad%20punch

          One time I made a wad punch out of old water pipe with internal and external "V"
          It did the job , but cracked the point of the vee off when the punch hit the wood backing.

          I have seen old time mechanics mark out the gasket (eg water pump)_
          with a ball peen hammer as you mention , then do the bolt holes wiith a wad punch
          and lastly cut out the ouline and big hole with scissors.
          X 2 on the wad punch set. One thing that really helps a lot when using them on thick materials is to chuck them up in the lathe and use a carbide cutter to thin the sharp end down then instead of hammering it through the hole, chuck it up in a drill press (or mill) and use it as a rotary cutter. It will improve the hole edges greatly and you should be able to get a very smooth edged hole.
          Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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          • #6
            I make my own punches like you say, on the lathe, I turn the OD the size of the hole in a flange if that is what I am working with. I drill the punch all the way threw two using a drill two sizes smaller and sharpen it from the inside by using a center drill. When done I use a drill instead of a hammer. They work mighty fine!

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            • #7
              Thats a great price for that wad cutter one. Harbor freight actually makes a usable one also. And I have some paper drills that work well and are easy to make sharp. JR



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              • #8
                I've used water pipe, conduit, cheap sockets and, on occasion, drill rod to make special sized punches. This is the first time I've heard them called "Wad Punches". I have two sets of the HF version(s)--One is older than the other. I keep one in the upholstery shed for leather and material. The one in the shop is used for rubber, leather, gasket material and insulation material. They work well but I use a slab of HDPE for a backer. I bought a set of blade punches but they're sort of flimsy. They're ok for softer materials. The set has square, rectangle, round and slot shapes in various sizes.

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                • #9
                  My punch sets are made by Osborne and I value them highly.

                  It is possible to tap a ball bearing over a hole to cut a hole in gasket paper.

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                  • #10
                    Spending most of my working like as a heavy duty mechanic I have had to make a lot of gaskets for one reason or other.
                    In your case I would place a piece of the appropriate gasket material over the opening and punch two of the bolt holes on opposite sides. To do a good job on the bolt holes I use 2 ball peen hammers.
                    One that is very small so that the round end will fit well down in the bolt hole a ways and another somewhat larger. If you push down on the small hammer you can feel where the bolt hole is, then hold it straight and centered and give it a good tap with the larger hammer. You should end up with the cut out piece in the bolt hole. You will have to fish them out afterward which usually isn't much trouble. Put a short bolt in each one of these holes then tap around the outside of the the gasket with the face of the larger hammer. You may have to use the ball end for any tight inside curve corner. You should be able to tap around the inside edge in a similar manner. If this doesn't cut the gasket clean I use a good pair of small tin snips to finish it off. After that you can go around and cut out the rest of the bolt holes with the two hammers. That method usually cuts them fairly clean and locates all the holes perfectly.
                    Larry - west coast of Canada

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                    • #11
                      I was thinking about this with the CNC engraver I bought... could I make my own gaskets?

                      Gasket paper is suppose to be water resistant. What happens if it's soaked in water? I've never tried it. But, I got to thinking... if it can handle water, then all I really need is some water-soluble glue to stick the stuff down to some hardboard. The same approach would work for any machining equipment. Stick it to hardboard, even laminate it between 2 sheets of hardboard, and machine it however you want. Why mess around with punches when there's a full set of drills to be used? Dump it in a bucket of water and pull it apart the next day. Gasket. Paper, but it should be able to survive being wet, right? It's a gasket.

                      Of course, I haven't tried it, don't know if it will really work, and the hardboard is probably more expensive than any pre-made gasket I'm likely to ever need. But, whatever... sometimes it's not worth the shipping cost nor waiting. The last time I made a gasket by hand (yes, with punches) was when I mucked up the $0.99 pre-ordered one... was too annoyed with myself to just go order another. Might end up trying the above approach one day.

                      Oh, and for the size I'd be thinking about doing, I could scan the part itself on a flatbed and get the picture into a drawing very quickly.

                      Sigh... more ideas than time to try them out. Maybe someday.

                      David...
                      http://fixerdave.blogspot.com/

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                      • #12
                        Just to add something that I have found helps cut clean gaskets when using punches... back up the gasket material with a hard wood block made of END grain. Like a old fashioned butcher block table surface. Hard maple is the best.
                        Joe B

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JoeCB View Post
                          Just to add something that I have found helps cut clean gaskets when using punches... back up the gasket material with a hard wood block made of END grain. Like a old fashioned butcher block table surface. Hard maple is the best.
                          Joe B
                          I use UHDP.

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                          • #14
                            Has anyone ever wondered what to do with used bearing races? Just sharpen, no need to go into Hercules mode to hit them.
                            mark costello-Low speed steel

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                            • #15
                              My father in law uses a small aluminum hammer to cut gaskets in place on the housing. Tap tap tap... and before you know it there is a perfect gasket. I think the hammer is a Snap-On part.
                              CNC machines only go through the motions

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